Years ago, I was captivated reading about and seeing images of Samarkand, Uzbekistan, the crown jewel of the ancient silk road, a city filled with stately mosques, madrasas and minarets covered in stunning turquoise and blue tiled domes. I made it a goal to some day visit this central Asian country known for being an epicenter of science, philosophy, and theology during Islam’s golden age between the 8th and 14th centuries. Last year, I finally visited Uzbekistan as part of a guided tour (using Gate1 Travel), which included attractions in the cities of Tashkent, Samarkand, Khiva and Bukhara.
While I found Samarkand stunning, especially its celebrated Registan Square, I was equally impressed with Bukhara, a lively city full of diverse culture, history, and architecture located in the flat desert of the central part of the country. Once a center of Persian culture, the city has been continuously inhabited for over two millennia, dating back nearly 1000 years before Alexander the Great conquered the region. It was once a center of the slave trade, as well as a major intellectual center of the Islamic world, renowned for its numerous libraries.
We spent three days in Bukhara and were pleasantly surprised by how its residents embrace the city’s rich history and culture while fully enjoying the present and looking confidently toward the future. The city pulsed with energy and creativity, from its bustling outdoor cafés to its many art venues and cultural celebrations—creating a place that feels both ancient and contemporary, historic yet vibrant.
The History and Culture of Uzbekistan
Uzbekistan has long played a strong role in central Asia’s history, with various waves of conquests shaping its identity, culture and architecture over thousands of years. Alexander the great, Genghis Khan, and Tamerlane each ruled and influenced the region resulting in a mosaic of cultures and languages. For over 2,000 years, Uzbekistan was at a crossroad on the ancient Silk Road that connected China, the Middle East, and Europe. Goods such as silk, spices and gold were traded between east and west, along with an exchange of religious, technological, philosophical and scientific thought. By the 19th century, Russian imperial expansion brought the region under tsarist control, followed by Soviet rule in the 20th century bringing industrialization and new social systems, including the suppression of religion. Uzbekistan gained independence from the Soviet Union in 1991, emerging as a modern nation with a strong secular, but authoritarian government. Recent leadership has opened the country, promoting tourism, economic reforms, and regional cooperation, while still maintaining tight control including control of political expression, the press, and religious activity.
Our Arrival in Bukhara
While enroute from Khiva to Bukhara, we stopped for a tea and restroom break at a small dusty outpost in the middle of the desert near the Amu Darya River. Across the river was the border of Turkmenistan, one of the most restrictive and authoritarian countries in the world. I took a photo looking out toward Turkmenistan before noticing a worn sign stating that photography was prohibited. We soon left, and three hours later, arrived in Bukhara – a city rising in sand-colored brick and turquoise tile, its skyline punctuated by minarets and domes that once guided traders, pilgrims, and conquerors, now guiding ever increasing numbers of tourists.
At one time, over 300 mosques and 100 madrassas were spread throughout the city, many of which still stand today. The compact old town, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, encompasses 140 protected monuments, and wandering the city’s old streets feels like entering a living museum. At the same time, the ancient city feels fully alive. Merchants still trade beneath domed bazaars, while children play in madrasa courtyards. At night, the city’s streets and squares awaken, filled with people of all ages. Young fashionably dressed couples stroll the streets and bazaars, and both small groups and large crowds dine at the numerous outdoor cafes.
One example of the city’s energetic spirit can be found in the embracement of contemporary art and culture. We were lucky to be in the city during the inaugural Bukhara Biennial. The free six-month long event, themed Recipes for Broken Hearts, was commissioned by the Uzbekistan Art and Culture Development Foundation. It showcased over 70 local and international artworks scattered at historic landmarks throughout the city, with a focus on how art can be a ‘recipe’ for mending grief, and inspired by plov, the country’s national dish. The event helped to contribute the city’s festive atmosphere. My favorite installation, Salt Carried by the Wind, was designed by Indian artist Subodh Gupta. The piece included a small domed building covered entirely but artistically with colorful ceramic pots, representing exchange along the silk road. During the exhibition, the building housed cooking sessions, adding a layer of theater, conversation and storytelling.
Poi-Kalyan Complex
Bukhara’s largest attraction is Poi-Kalyan, a square which boasts a robust ensemble of Islamic architecture. The centerpiece is the huge Kalon Mosque, built of patterned brick and tiles during the 16th century. At the main eastern façade, I stood looking up in amazement at the ornately decorated portal covered with intricate geometric designs and patterns made from glazed blue and teal tiles. The portal leads to a large central courtyard surrounded by four halls known as iwans. The towering 12th-century minaret rises fifty meters above the square, once so majestic that even Genghis Khan spared it during his conquest of Bukhara in the 13th century. Next door is the equally impressive and ornate Mir-i-Arab Madrasa, characterized by two turquoise domes rising above each side of the two-story portal. The madrasa functions to this day as a working Islamic school.
The Ark Fortress
From our hotel we walked to the nearby Ark Fortress, a large earthen fortification dating from the 5th century that once enclosed and protected the royal residence of Bukhara’s emirs. The massive 60-foot-tall walls create a shape that was influenced by the Ursa Major (Big Dipper) constellation. Today, the fortress includes museums, reception halls and sweeping views over the old town. The current Ark is built on the remains of earlier structures, with all the existing buildings having been built in the last three centuries. Inside are museums, former prison cells, reception halls and mosques.
Lyab-I Hauz Square – Bukhara’s Living Room
Centered on a 17th-century reflecting pool, Lyab-i Hauz is a lively public square and Bukhara’s social living room. Tea houses and cafes spill onto shaded terraces beneath mulberry trees, and as we witnessed, are very popular with both locals and tourists during the cool evenings. The pool is one of many that once occupied Bukhara before being removed during the Soviet era due to the spread of disease. Surrounding the square are former madrasas — including the Nadir Divan-Begi Madrasa and Kukeldash Madrasa — that now host artisan shops selling embroidery, ceramics, and handwoven carpets.
Ustoz Shogird Center
One evening we made a visit to the Ustoz Shogird Center, an art school dedicated to preserving traditional Uzbek crafts and paintings. The school is under the guidance of Davlat Toshev, a renowned artist whose Persian miniature paintings have been exhibited throughout the world. We watched young students demonstrate painting techniques and were given the opportunity to donate art materials to the school. That evening at Davlat’s home, we were treated to a cooking demonstration and dinner of Uzbekistan’s national dish – plov, a flavorful mix of rice, lamb or beef, onion, garlic, carrots, chickpeas and spices, traditionally cooked in large pots. In 2016, the dish was added to UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Heritage list.
Bukhara’s Bazaars and Souvenirs
Bukhara has several covered bazaars — known as trading domes. At the Markaziy bazaar, we were greeted with the sights and smells of Uzbekistan, including fresh produce, dried fruits and nuts, delectable sweets, and freshly baked and beautifully designed round loaves of bread known as lepeshka. In the center of town is the Toki Zargaron, with its domed brick ceilings and openings that attract filtered desert light. Inside, visitors can purchase various Uzbeki souvenirs, such as silk scarves, rugs, Uzbeki style hats, miniature paintings, and carved woodwork.
Bukhara is particularly known for its hand-knotted carpets and handcrafted knives, and our tour included stops at shops selling these items. They are deeply rooted in Silk Road history, with techniques passed down through generations. Bukhara carpets are known for their vibrant colors and distinctive geometric patterns, typically featuring repeating rows of small diamonds and octagons. Bukhara handcrafted knives feature intricate designs and Damascus steel blades.
Other Sites and Thoughts
We explored other mosques, madrasas, palaces, the old bazaar, and ancient mausoleums, like the Ismail Samani Mausoleum, one of Central Asia’s oldest surviving Islamic monuments dating from the 9th century. Its baked-brick façade forms intricate geometric patterns that shift with the light — a masterpiece of early Islamic architecture. The 19th century Chor Minor monument and mosque was a surprise, with its small size and unique four turquoise-domed towers.
We happened to be in Bukhara on the night of a full lunar eclipse. As we observed the blood moon for an hour on our hotel rooftop, I thought about how Bukhara was the perfect spot to witness such an event, surrounded by history, surreal architecture, a desert setting, but more importantly, a place that is celebrating its past while looking toward the future.
When to Go
Now is the time to see Uzbekistan. The country is rapidly emerging as a global tourism hotspot, experiencing a significant increase in international tourist arrivals. In the first half of 2025, there was a nearly 50% increase in foreign visitors compared to the same period the previous year. This growth trend is expected to continue. The country is embracing the tourism demand by making significant improvements to its infrastructure, including hotels, roads, airports, and tourist experiences. The peak seasons to visit are spring (April/May) and fall (September/October), when temperatures are pleasant, however these are also the busiest tourist periods when costs are higher. The summer sees very hot weather, exceeding 40°C (104°F). Winter can be very cold but is ideal for avoiding crowds and taking advantage of lower travel costs.