I spent a month in the trendy Marigny neighborhood of New Orleans in early 2022, primarily to escape the cold DC winter. Learn more about this ultra cool neighborhood, including its character, history and some of my favorite places.
About a year ago, during a frigid Washington D.C. winter, my partner and I decided that we’d had enough, and determined that the next winter, or at least a portion of it, would be spent somewhere a little warmer. The timing would be perfect, as I had been planning to retire from my job the following year. We wanted a place that was more than just sun and beaches, a place that is walkable, with some culture, and has good food. We’d been to New Orleans several times, have even thought about it as a potential retirement home, and thought it might be a good place to test for a month. We started a search on AirBnB for mid January thru mid February and found a fantastic deal (75% off) for an apartment in the Fauborg Marigny (also known as the Marigny) neighborhood of New Orleans. The time period we rented was just before the main (and pricier) part of Mardi Gras season, but was late enough that it still included several of the early parades.
The Marigny neighborhood is squeezed between the more well known French Quarter to the west (or upriver), and the up and coming Bywater neighborhood to the east. The Marigny is known for its bohemian atmosphere, colorfully decorated shotgun style homes, and the many jazz clubs and Cajun restaurants along famous Frenchmen Street which runs north-south down the center of the neighborhood. The New Orleans visitors webpage characterizes its vibe as “colorful, sassy and hipsterrific”. In many ways, it is the perfect location for a lengthy stay in New Orleans – it’s away from the never ending party scene of the French Quarter, but easily walkable to it. A variety of restaurants and cafes are scattered throughout the neighborhood, as are other services such as grocery stores. Another plus is that on-street parking is a lot easier to come by. A piece of good advice that we got from our host, Thom, – crime is still an issue in New Orleans, so make sure to take everything out of your car, and keep your doors unlocked to avoid broken windows.
The Marigny was originally part of a plantation owned by a Creole named Bernard de Marigny. In 1806, he divided the plantation and sold lots. Many of the new settlers were German immigrants, and Louisiana Creoles of color. Louisiana Creoles are descendants of the inhabitants of colonial Louisiana before it became part of the U.S., during both French and Spanish rule, and their ancestry can be a combination of French, African, Spanish and Native American. Over the years, the neighborhood both flourished and declined. In the mid 20th Century, parts of the Marigny became crime ridden, but by the late 1980s, revitalization began and is still underway, especially in the northern stretches of the neighborhood.
Our apartment was located on the ground floor of an attractive older two story home in the heart of the Marigny, and included three bedrooms and two baths, so it was perfect if we wanted to invite friends or family for a portion of our time there. In fact, my parents drove down from Ohio and stayed with us for the second half of our stay.
Part of the allure of the Marigny is that it is still a work in progress. It feels like a real neighborhood, and not a tourist area. Most of the homes are narrow shotgun style, and the architecture borrows from colonial French and Spanish and has elements of the Caribbean. While walking the neighborhood you may also feel like you’ve been transplanted to Key West. You’ll find beautifully restored homes located next to others that still need a bit of work. During Mardi Gras, just about every other house is decorated in purple, green and gold, or with some other decoration scheme noting a particular krewe. Quaint coffee shops, homey bars and restaurants are intermixed within the residential areas. The residents are friendly, and will wave or say hello to you from their front porch. Everyone seems to have a dog – which are welcome in many of the neighborhood bars. One must also be mindful while walking, especially after having a few drinks, as the sidewalks buckle everywhere.
In 2022, Mardis Gras parades returned to New Orleans, after they were cancelled the prior year due to the COVID pandemic. During our stay, we were lucky to be able to attend a few of the City’s Mardi Gras parades that started their route in the Marigny. There are dozens of Krewes and parades during Mardi Gras season, and each Mardi Gras Krewe Parade has a unique history and theme. The first that we attended was the Krewe of Chewbacchus, a sci-fi themed parade full of participants dressed as space aliens, Star Wars characters and other eclectic outfits. The parade was led by dozens of Princess Leah’s dancing to rap music. A seven foot tall pink furred Chewbacca also made the rounds, and my mom made sure she got to pose with him. We also attended the Krewe de Vieux, which is known for its more adult themes, satire and political comedy. I’ll leave some of the float designs to your imagination.
While our time in New Orleans included jaunts to well known places outside the Marigny, including the French Quarter, the Garden District, City Park and some of the plantation homes outside the City, we tried to visit as many places in the Marigny since it was our temporary home. The list below includes some of our favorite places we frequented. One thing we found is that many of the restaurants are closed Mondays and Tuesdays, likely due to staffing shortages due to COVID. In addition, at the time of our visit, the City of New Orleans required proof of full vaccination or negative COVID test for indoor dining, gatherings and entertainment.
Restaurants
Arabella Casa di Pasta – Inexpensive and laid back Italian restaurant that includes house specialties and build your own pasta dishes. The interior is decorated with Star Wars memorabilia. 2258 St. Claude Avenue https://www.arabellanola.com
Sukho Thai – Inexpensive Thai restaurant with standard Thai dishes that also includes a Vegan and gluten free menu; friendly staff. 2200 Royal Street https://www.sukhothai-nola.com
Silk Road Restaurant and Wine Bar – Moderately priced restaurant with Indian dishes, specials and non-Indian dishes, such as the delicious smoked pork chop with apple chutney. Live bands on occasion. 2483 Royal Street https://www.silkroadnola.com
The Franklin – Moderately priced restaurant and bar with a beautiful but cozy atmosphere, serving Southern Italian dishes, seafood and burgers. The chicken parmesan is gigantic. 2600 Dauphine Street https://thefranklinnola.com
Dat Dog – Inexpensive laid back restaurant on Frenchmen Street that serves all types of sausages with a variety of toppings. 601 Frenchmen Street https://www.datdog.com
Bars
Pepp’s Pub – Laid back, “dog friendly, people tolerant” bar with regular customers, named after the owner’s dog. Craft beer and cocktails; Outdoor seating area and revolving food trucks. 706 Franklin Avenue https://www.peppspub.com
Annas – Two story dog friendly bar with pool table, and food including decadent churros with a caramel sauce. 2601 Royal Street https://www.annasnola.com/
Coffee
The Orange Couch – Bright, airy, dog friendly coffee shop with retro furniture, and outdoor seating. Outside walk up window also available. Serves baked goods. 2339 Royal Street https://www.theorangecouchcoffee.com/
Who Dat Cafe – Coffee shop with full breakfast restaurant, soups and salads, outdoor seating. 2401 Burgundy Street https://www.facebook.com/whodatcoffeecafe
Grocery
Robert Fresh Market Marigny – Local New Orleans grocery chain. Has a good salad / food bar; Parking lot adjacent. 2222 St. Claude Avenue https://www.robertfreshmarket.com/
Recreation
Crescent Park and Trail – This 1.4 mile long linear park follows the north shore of the Mississippi River along an old rail corridor. Includes a dog run, gardens and viewing platform with views of the river and downtown New Orleans. https://www.crescentparknola.org/