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A Journey Through Lancaster and Pennsylvania Dutch Country

One of my favorite nearby getaways from Washington D.C. is Pennsylvania Dutch Country located amid the rolling farmland of southeastern Pennsylvania. The first time I visited was during the peak of the COVID pandemic, and with many places restricting travel, it was a good place to get away from the city and experience a simpler and slower pace of life.

The region encompasses the city of Lancaster, and the surrounding countryside dotted with numerous charming small towns and colorful Amish and Mennonite owned and operated farms. It offers a captivating blend of American history, rural traditions, thriving arts, and small-town charm. Driving throughout the region, visitors will see horse-drawn buggies sharing the roads with modern traffic. Old farms with colorful barns sit near lively cafés, and traditions passed down through generations remain an important part of daily life. While the region is filled with history, it has also evolved into a sophisticated destination packed with galleries, theaters, farm-to-table restaurants, and boutique shops, making it one of the Mid-Atlantic’s most rewarding travel experiences. Visitors can spend the morning exploring Amish farms and covered bridges, the afternoon browsing art galleries and markets downtown, and the evening enjoying live theater or locally sourced cuisine.

The peaceful Amish countryside

Lancaster – The Heart of Pennsylvania Dutch Country

A good place to start a journey through Pennsylvania Dutch Country is the region’s largest city, Lancaster. I found the city to be much more dynamic and cosmopolitan than expected. Within the very walkable downtown area, high-rise buildings stand next to beautifully preserved 18th- and 19th-century architecture. The streets are lined with contemporary restaurants, coffee shops, breweries, and art galleries.

Downtown Lancaster

Lancaster also has a vibrant arts scene. Galleries, murals, and performance venues bring energy to the downtown district, while the Fulton Theatre, one of the oldest continuously operating theaters in America, hosts Broadway-style productions in an elegant historic setting.

Lancaster Central Market—The Lancaster Central Market was founded in 1730 and is considered one of the oldest continuously operating public markets in the United States. It is located in the center of downtown, and is a centerpiece of city life, packed with local produce, baked goods, cheeses, meats, and handmade crafts.

The Lancaster Central Market

Lancaster History Museum – The Lancaster History Museum is a multi-facility museum that preserves the area’s past through exhibits, archives, and guided tours, including Wheatland, the home of President James Buchanan, the only U.S. president from Pennsylvania. At the main campus of the museum is the 11-acre Tanger Arboretum that includes over 100 species of trees from around the world. In downtown Lancaster, the newly opened Thaddeus Stevens and Lydia Hamilton Smith Center includes exhibits, immersive experiences and programs that focus on the struggle of freedom and equality In America.

Demuth Museum and Landcaster Museum of Art – The Demuth Museum, located downtown, preserves and promotes the groundbreaking work of American Modern artist Charles Demuth who was born in Lancaster. He achieved international fame for his modernist paintings such as “My Egypt.” The nearby Lancaster Museum of Art  showcases the work of local, national, and international artists and includes rotating exhibits.

The Lancaster Museum of Art

Ghost tours – On one visit, we participated in a candlelit ghost tour of downtown Lancaster. Our guide, wearing a top hat and wrapped in a long cape, walked us to multiple sights throughout the historic part of the city, providing us haunting tales of otherworldly vigils, fatal curses, and star-crossed lovers.

The Small Towns of Lancaster County

Beyond the city of Lancaster itself, the surrounding countryside is dotted with charming and historic small towns such as Lititz, Strasburg, Ephrata, and Intercourse, offering an experience that feels both timeless and deeply authentic.

Ephrata – Located 17 miles northeast of Lancaster, Ephrata is a historic town founded in the 18th century. The town is best known for the Ephrata Cloister, a museum that preserves a monastic religious community established in 1732 by German settlers seeking a spiritual, communal way of life. Back then, it was home to nearly 80 celibate Brothers and Sisters who lived in Germanic style buildings. Besides practicing their religious activities, they worked in papermaking, farming, carpentry, milling and textile production. The church closed in 1934, and today, the cloister’s unique architecture, historic buildings, and interpretive exhibits provide visitors with a glimpse into one of early America’s most unusual religious societies. Other attractions in Ephrata include a welcoming downtown with local cafés, brew pubs, boutiques, antique shops and bakeries.

Downtown Ephrata

Strasburg – Located nine miles southeast of Lancaster, Strasburg is a charming small town founded in the 18th century known for its rich railroad heritage. The Strasburg Rail Road is the oldest continuously operating railroad in the United States. Visitors can ride beautifully restored steam trains on a nine mile loop through the picturesque countryside. Nearby, the Railroad Museum of Pennsylvania features an impressive collection of over 100 historic locomotives and railcars. Beyond its railroad attractions, the town also offers antique shops, cozy inns, and local restaurants.

The Strasburg Railroad

Lititz – One of my favorite small towns is Lititz, once named the “coolest small town in America” by Budget Travel. The town is located just north of Lancaster. During my first visit, I was immediately taken aback by the historic town’s charming main street, attractive 18th century architecture, beautiful parks, and festive vibe.

Lititz was founded in 1749, when the Moravian Church, under Count Nikolaus Von Zinzendor established a church settlement. Only members of the church were allowed to live in Lititz and residents were required to abide by the Town Regulations intended to help residents live “free from all dangerous and worldly connections.”  Dancing, drinking, feasts and playing in the streets was strictly forbidden.

Downtown Lititz

Today, Lititz welcomes everyone to enjoy its treasures. Tree-lined Main Street is filled with independent shops, boutiques, antique stores, bakeries, cafés, and art galleries. Nearby residential streets in the Little Moravian Historic District are lined with beautiful homes in the Federal or Late Victorian architectural styles. Beautifully maintained Lititz Springs Park hosts numerous events such as the weekly farmers market (Thursdays from May thru October). We happened to arrive during the Lititz Fine Art Festival featuring original works and high-quality reproductions from over 130 local and out-of-state artists.

A popular Lititz attraction is Julius Sturgis Pretzel Bakery, recognized as America’s first commercial pretzel bakery (operating since 1861). Visitors can learn about pretzel-making traditions and try twisting their own pretzels. Lititz is also home to the renowned Wilbur Chocolate Company, long associated with chocolate-making in the region.

Lititz hosts other popular seasonal events, including the Lititz Craft Beer Fest (held in September), and the Lititz Fire and Ice Festival (held in February) which is known for its many ice sculptures.

Lititz Springs Park

Kitchen Kettle Village – Located near the infamously named town of Intercourse is  Kitchen Kettle Village, a popular shopping and dining destination focused on traditional Pennsylvania Dutch culture. The village, designed as an attractive open air pedestrian mall, features a collection of 40 shops and eateries housed in themed buildings surrounding flower filled courtyards, representing a 19th century village. Shops sell items like homemade jams, relishes, baked goods, and specialty foods. Visitors can watch artisans prepare jams and preserves in kettles, sample local cheeses and sweets, and browse boutiques selling quilts, crafts, soaps, and handcrafted gifts.

Kitchen Kettle Village

Discovering Amish Country

One of the main draws of the Lancaster region is its connection to the Mennonite and most notably Amish communities that have lived here for generations. The Amish are a traditional Christian group known for their simple lifestyle, strong sense of community, and emphasis on faith, humility, and family. The Amish originated in Europe in the late 17th century seeking a life centered on religious devotion and separation from many aspects of the modern world. They are widely recognized for customs such as traveling by horse and buggy, wearing plain clothing, and limiting the use of certain modern technologies that they believe could disrupt family and community life. Farming, craftsmanship, and mutual support remain central to Amish culture, and many communities continue to speak a German dialect known as Pennsylvania Dutch in addition to English.

A horse-drawn buggy

Drawn by the promise of fertile farmland and religious freedom offered by William Penn and the colony of Pennsylvania, Amish families immigrated during the early 18th century from Switzerland and parts of present-day Germany and France to escape religious persecution in Europe. Lancaster County is home to one of the oldest and largest Amish communities in the United States.

One of my favorite activities is to drive the scenic back roads east of Lancaster that wind past rolling farmland, colorful barns and covered bridges, and count the number of horse-drawn buggies packed with multi-generational families. Driving through Amish country is like stepping back in time, offering a glimpse into a different way of living. First time visitors may be both surprised and fascinated seeing Amish families going about their daily lives. Amish men and boys in broad-brimmed hats and plain dark clothing work in the fields where teams of horses pull farming equipment. Women and girls are often seen wearing modest dresses in soft colors, white prayer coverings, and aprons hanging laundry outside on clotheslines. Roadside stands sell fresh produce and baked goods.

Rather than feeling staged for tourists, these scenes convey a genuine rhythm of life. In our ever changing modern and hectic world, Amish country provides a rare sense of calm and connection, pondering the question of whether this is how life really should be.

An Amish family

Amish Village – The Amish Village, located on 12 acres, offers an authentic look at today’s Amish lifestyle where visitors can enjoy Amish culture up close, including a Farmhouse and Village Tour, and Backroads Bus Tour.

Old Windmill farm – The Old Windmill Farm offers visitors a personal insight to Amish farm life. The farm and garden tour allows visitors to meet the animals including the mules, pig skit. They can bottle feed baby calves, milk a cow, gather eggs, and hold the baby chicks. Visitors can also take a 20 minute hayride tour around the farm.

Landis Valley Village and Farm Museum – The Landis Valley Village and Farm Museum is a living history museum that collects, conserves, exhibits and interprets Pennsylvania German material culture and heritage between 1750-1940. Visitors can learn about authentic traditional farming, village and industrial life. It offers hands-on skilled craft demonstrations, and information about historical animals and plants.

Bird-in-Hand Farmers Market – The Bird in Hand Farmers Market features fresh meats, cheese and produce, a wide variety of baked goods such as shoefly pie, chocolates and candies, bulk foods, spices, hand-rolled soft pretzels, apple cider and more. Craft and souvenir items include quilts, dried and silk flower arrangements, old fashioned toys, dolls and doll clothes, and quality leather goods.

Covered bridges – Lancaster County is home to nearly 30 covered bridges which are among the region’s most picturesque and beloved historic landmarks. The wooden bridges tucked along quiet backroads were built primarily during the 19th century. Their design with roofs and siding was to protect their structural timbers from rain and snow. Bridges such as the Hunsecker’s Mill Covered Bridge and the Sachs Covered Bridge have become favorite stops for photographers and travelers.

One of many covered bridges in Lancaster County

Getting There and Around

Getting to Lancaster is relatively easy thanks to its central location near several major East Coast cities. The city lies about 80 miles west of Philadelphia and roughly 90 miles north of Baltimore, making it a convenient drive from much of the Mid-Atlantic region. Travelers arriving by air can fly into Philadelphia International Airport, Baltimore/Washington International Thurgood Marshall Airport, or Harrisburg International Airport, all of which offer rental car access for the drive into Lancaster County. Lancaster has a small airport with limited service. Lancaster is well connected by rail, with Amtrak service linking the city to Philadelphia, Harrisburg, and New York via the Keystone Service line.

Once in Lancaster, getting around the city itself is straightforward. Downtown Lancaster is compact and walkable. Rideshare services and local buses are available, but most visitors find that walking is the best way to experience the city’s lively streets and historic architecture.

Exploring the surrounding Amish Country is best done by car. The scenic countryside of Lancaster County is spread across winding rural roads dotted with farms, covered bridges, roadside markets, and small villages. Driving allows visitors the flexibility to stop at farm stands, local shops, and lesser-known attractions along the way. Visitors should drive carefully and respectfully, as horse-drawn buggies frequently share the roads. Guided tours through sites such as Viator allow easy and personal insight into local attractions, Amish culture and access to local farms and workshops.

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