Each year I spend a portion of the winter in south Florida to get away from the cold, snow and dampness of the Mid-Atlantic. While in Fort Lauderdale, I always make a trip an hour north to the cities of Palm Beach and West Palm Beach to experience an area with a slower pace and diversity of attractions. While both cities sit next to each other, separated by Lake Worth Lagoon which is a part of the Intracoastal Waterway, they feel like two distinct worlds sharing the same stretch of sun and sea. One is steeped in old-money glamour and manicured elegance, while the other is vibrant, creative, modern and unmistakably urban. Visiting both offers a fuller picture of the region, where luxury and everyday life exist side by side under swaying palms and sunny skies. What makes the Palm Beach area attractive is that both cities offer a less hectic pace than the larger cities of Fort Lauderdale and Miami to the south. Together, the two destinations balance elegance and authenticity, offering visitors both the fantasy and the everyday reality of coastal Florida.
History of the Region
The history of Palm Beach and West Palm Beach is closely intertwined. The area was originally inhabited by the Jaega and Seminole peoples nearly 3,000 years ago, and later visited by Spanish explorers. The region remained swampy and largely undeveloped, accessible only by boat, until the late 19th century when Henry Morrison Flagler extended his Florida East Coast Railway southward. In 1894, Flagler built the Royal Poinciana Hotel on the barrier island of Palm Beach, establishing the area as a winter resort for wealthy industrialists.
Palm Beach quickly became an enclave of the wealthy, with grand estates, exclusive clubs, and an elite social life. Across the Lake Worth Lagoon, West Palm Beach was founded in 1894. It developed as the commercial and residential center that supported the resort economy of Palm Beach, attracting workers, merchants, and entrepreneurs. It soon grew into a bustling town with docks, rail access, and a diverse population.
Throughout the 20th century, the two cities continued to grow in parallel but distinct ways. Palm Beach focused on preservation, exclusivity, and maintaining its historic character, while West Palm Beach experienced waves of expansion, redevelopment, and cultural growth. In recent decades, West Palm Beach has experienced significant downtown revitalization with new arts and cultural institutions, dining and gleaming residential towers, complementing Palm Beach’s elegance across the water. Together, their shared history tells the story of the transformation of south Florida—from wilderness to resort, and from resort town to a dynamic coastal region.
Palm Beach – A Glamorous City Steeped in History
Palm Beach is perhaps known by most people as the location of the opulent Mar-a-Lago resort, the former home of heiress Marjorie Merriweather Post and currently owned by Donald Trump. But before Mar-a-Lago became a renowned name, Palm Beach was defined by refinement and tradition which is certain to continue in the future. Set on a slender barrier island just east of West Palm Beach and Lake Worth Lagoon, Palm Beach is known for its historic oceanfront mansions tucked behind palm-lined hedges, high society, upscale shopping and pristine beaches. Iconic landmarks like Worth Avenue evoke a polished, almost timeless atmosphere. Life here feels private and curated, with historic hotels, exclusive boutiques, and a strong sense of preservation. The current population is small – just under 10,000 people, and in 2017, Forbes Magazine reported that the town had 30 plus billionaires. Whether you’re visiting for a long weekend or pairing it with a broader South Florida trip, Palm Beach offers a refined mix of coastal beauty, history, shopping, and arts.
Downtown / Worth Avenue – No visit to Palm Beach is complete without exploring one of the most famous shopping streets in the country – Worth Avenue. Lined with luxury boutiques, galleries, and cafés, the avenue is the place to see and be seen. It feels more like a Mediterranean promenade than a retail strip. Tucked away off the street are narrow pedestrian lanes known as vias, leading to intimate courtyards filled with bougainvillea and charming fountains. Even if shopping isn’t on your agenda, Worth Avenue is a destination in itself. On the western edge of downtown, the Lake Trail is a scenic path along the Intracoastal Waterway, offering glimpses of yachts, gardens, grand estates, and views toward West Palm Beach.
Palm Beach Municipal Beach – At the eastern end of Worth Avenue, visitors will be greeted by one of Palm Beach’s most recognizable and photogenic landmarks. Built in 2003 in a Mediterranean Revival style, the Worth Avenue clock tower serves as a visual anchor to what lies beyond – the pristine white sand and turquoise colored water of Palm Beach Municipal Beach. The tower’s arched loggia frames postcard-perfect views of the sand and water. The beach is known locally as Midtown or Phipps Ocean Park depending on the access point. The wide, clean beach is perfect for swimming, sunbathing, or simply strolling along the Atlantic shoreline.
Henry Morrison Flagler Museum – The Henry Flagler Museum, overlooking Lake Worth, provides a window into the city’s Gilded Age past. The museum is housed in Whitehall, a grand Beaux-Arts mansion built in 1902 by Henry Morrison Flagler, an oil tycoon, railroad magnate, and co-founder of Standard Oil. The estate was a wedding gift for his third wife, Mary Lily Kenan, and it quickly became a symbol of Palm Beach’s transformation from a quiet outpost into a glamorous winter retreat for America’s elite.
I’ve visited the museum twice, and am always astonished with the mansion’s lavish rooms, including the sweeping Grand Hall, elegant dining room, and ornate library, all furnished with period décor that reflects the opulence of the era. Exhibits detail Flagler’s crucial role in developing Florida’s east coast through his railroad and hotel empire, which helped shape modern Florida. The Flagler Kenan Pavilion houses Flagler’s private railcar, and hosts rotating exhibitions. Visitors can also partake in an elegant Afternoon Tea inside the pavilion, featuring a variety of sandwiches, scones and desserts paired with the Museum’s signature Whitehall Blend tea.
The Breakers Palm Beach – The Breakers Palm Beach is one of Florida’s most iconic resorts. It is a grand symbol of Palm Beach’s Gilded Age glamour and luxury. The resort was built in 1896 by Henry Morrison Flagler and designed to attract wealthy winter visitors traveling south on his Florida East Coast Railway. After fires destroyed the first two structures, the current Italian Renaissance–style hotel opened in 1926, inspired by Italian villas. It features soaring arcades, frescoed ceilings, and an oceanfront setting with a beautiful white sand beach.
Hotel guests can take advantage of multiple restaurants, a golf course, the pool and beach, a spa and fitness center, tennis and various family activities. Non guests are welcome to explore many of its public spaces or dine in the numerous restaurants ranging from casual cafés to upscale restaurants, and afternoon tea, or cocktails while soaking in the resort’s elegant atmosphere. The hotel offers seasonal guided history tours providing deeper insight into the hotel’s architecture and legacy.
Royal Poinciana Plaza – Across the narrow island from the Breakers, sitting along Lake Worth Lagoon, is the Royal Poinciana Plaza, one of Palm Beach’s most fashionable shopping districts. The open-air shopping center, opened in 1957, blends mid-century modern architecture with contemporary luxury. Visitors are mainly attracted to the luxury high-end boutiques, specialty shops and cafes, and restaurants. The retail is enhanced with lush landscaping, shaded courtyards, and elegant walkways that invite lingering.
West Palm Beach – A Vibrant, Creative and Modern City
Just across the water, the more modern city of West Palm Beach provides contrast and a more exciting energy than its neighbor to the east. It’s a lively city of distinct neighborhoods, arts institutions, waterfront promenades, and a growing dining and nightlife scene. More accessible and eclectic, West Palm Beach buzzes with local culture and modern momentum. West Palm Beach is increasingly known as “Wall Street South” due to the influx of financial firms and professionals from the Northeast.
This city of 127,000 people blends waterfront scenery with arts, dining, and neighborhoods worth wandering. It’s a destination that works equally well as a base for exploring South Florida or as a stand-alone getaway.
Downtown West Palm Beach – A good place to start any visit to West Palm Beach is in the compact, very walkable downtown area anchored by Lake Worth Lagoon to the east and Clear Lake to the west. The heart of the downtown runs along Clematis Street which ends at South Flagler Drive and Lake Worth. Clematis Street is an attractive narrow street lined with wide sidewalks, outdoor plazas, landscaping, restaurants, shops and other services. After dark, the street’s bars, music venues, and cafés fill with residents and visitors alike. On Thursday nights, the popular Clematis by Night concert series turns the waterfront into a vibrant social and entertainment hub.
One of my favorite activities is experiencing the West Palm Beach Greenmarket, a massive farmer’s market held each Saturday morning along Clematis Street and Centennial Square. It’s one of the best farmer’s markets that I’ve come across. Thousands of people show up to browse or buy local produce, baked goods, clothing, arts and crafts and more. Dozens of food vendors line the park, where people can eat a variety of international treats while enjoying live music. Afterwards, we always stroll the nearby waterfront to admire the numerous luxury yachts anchored in the harbor.
The waterfront features walking paths, shaded green spaces, and sweeping views across the Intracoastal toward Palm Beach’s stately mansions. From here, you can hop on a water taxi to travel along the Intracoastal or go to nearby Peanut Island, a popular spot for snorkeling, picnicking, and swimming.
The western edge of downtown, west of Quadrille Boulevard, encompasses a large attractive shopping district known as The Square (formerly CityPlace). This quaint, open-air district mixes shops, restaurants, and entertainment around landscaped plazas and attractive fountains. Walking the streets reminds one of being in a historic European village with the Mediterranean style buildings lavishly covered in colorful Bougainvillea. We recently checked out Eataly, a massive Italian themed store and food hall filled with aisles of hand crafted pastas, desserts, cheeses and more.
Downtown West Palm Beach is an open-air gallery, with colorful murals splashed across building walls and alleyways, reflecting the area’s creative energy. The colorful murals, created by both local and internationally recognized artists, blend tropical themes, bold abstract designs, cultural tributes, and playful street art. Many of the murals are clustered around Clematis Street and the surrounding neighborhoods.
Norton Museum of Art – At the south end of the downtown area, the Norton Museum of Art is widely regarded as one of the best art museums in Florida. I recently visited it for the first time, and was impressed with its large and diverse collection of 8,200 works ranging from American and European masters to contemporary works, photography and Chinese art. We were lucky to catch a special exhibition featuring 75 works of 17th century Dutch art including over a dozen paintings by Rembrandt van Rijn. I particularly enjoyed the museum’s inviting contemporary outdoor sculpture garden and café.
Mounts Botanical Garden – The Mounts Botanical Garden, located near the Palm Beach Airport, will appeal to nature lovers, with its 25 unique gardens featuring 7,000 species of tropical and subtropical plants from six continents scattered throughout 20 acres. The gardens include a butterfly garden, herb garden, rose garden, tropical forest and more.
Palm Beach Zoo – The Palm Beach Zoo, located south of downtown near the airport, showcases more than 500 animals from around the world in lush, tropical surroundings. The zoo features immersive habitats representing Florida, the Americas, Africa, and Asia, and includes species like jaguars, koalas, capybaras, and Florida panthers. The zoo’s strong focus on conservation and education adds depth to the experience.
Cox Science Center and Aquarium – The Cox Science Center and Aquarium, located adjacent the Palm Beach zoo, is a family-friendly attraction that blends education with play. It includes interactive exhibits that explore topics ranging from physics and technology to human health and environmental science. The on-site aquarium highlights Florida’s coastal and freshwater ecosystems. Outdoor areas include a science trail, a planetarium, and rotating special exhibitions that encourage curiosity and experimentation.
Northwood Village – Northwood Village, located north of downtown, is a neighborhood with a bohemian vibe full of creativity and character. The area is lined with colorful murals, vintage storefronts, and an eclectic mix of art galleries, antique shops, boutiques, and locally owned restaurants. Northwood Village regularly hosts art walks, live music nights, and neighborhood festivals that draw both residents and visitors. The adjacent residential area is filled with historic bungalow style homes and cottages.
Manatee Lagoon – The Manatee Lagoon, located near Northwood Village off North Flagler Drive, showcases these lovable large marine mammals in the warm water outflow of the Riviera Beach Next Generation Clean Energy Center. The lagoon offers visitors a chance to learn about—and sometimes spot—Florida’s beloved manatees up close. The lagoon attracts manatees during the cooler winter months (November through March) when they gather in the heated waters. The free visitor center features interactive exhibits about manatee conservation, Florida ecosystems, and sustainable energy, along with an observation deck overlooking the lagoon.
Getting There and Around
Getting to Palm Beach and West Palm Beach is easy, thanks to its excellent connections by air, road, and rail. The cities lie a little over 70 miles north of Miami, at the northern end of the sprawling urbanized area of southeast Florida.
By Car – West Palm Beach is accessible from both the Florida Turnpike, and Interstate 95 which run north-south, making it an easy drive from Miami, Fort Lauderdale or Orlando. To reach Palm Beach, take Highway 704 east from either the turnpike or Interstate 95, travel over Lake Worth where the road becomes Royal Palm Way.
By Air – The city is served by Palm Beach International Airport (PBI), located just minutes from downtown, with nonstop flights to major U.S. cities and convenient car rental options on site.
By Rail – Rail travelers have multiple choices. Amtrak stops in West Palm Beach on its Silver Service routes. The station is located downtown at the west end of Clematis Street. The Brightline offers fast, modern rail service connecting West Palm Beach with Miami, Fort Lauderdale, Boca Raton, Aventura, and Orlando, and the station is located on South Quadrille Boulevard just south of Clematis Street.
Once in the city, getting around West Palm Beach is relatively easy. The compact downtown area is highly walkable, especially around Clematis Street, the Waterfront, and The Square. Public transportation is provided by Palm Tran, which connects downtown to surrounding neighborhoods, beaches, and attractions. Rideshare services like Uber and Lyft are widely available and convenient. For a scenic option, try the Palm Beach water taxi that allows travelers to move along the Intracoastal Waterway.