A friend of mine recently visited me in Alexandria and suggested a trip to Richmond, the capital of my state (actually commonwealth) of Virginia. Richmond, or RVA as called by locals, was listed as the No. 1 city to visit by CNN in 2024. Specifically, it noted the city’s rich arts, culture and history, and great food and beverage scene.
While Richmond is one of America’s oldest cities and is full of history, it also feels vibrantly young, with a large college age population, beautiful parks, modern museums and gleaming glass skyscrapers straddling the James River.
I hadn’t visited the city in nearly ten years and was eager to see what had changed. We spent a weekend checking out some of the city’s top sights. I found that while the city still offers many traditional attractions, it also offers plenty of new things to explore – It’s a place where cobblestone streets meet modern murals, where Civil War history coexists with a growing list of indie breweries, and where every neighborhood, including up and coming ones like Scott’s Addition, tells its own story.
A Brief History of Richmond
Richmond was founded in 1737 by planter William Byrd II, taking its name from Richmond-on-Thames in England because its similar surroundings. Its strategic river location made it an early hub for trade and commerce in colonial America. The city replaced Williamsburg as the state capital in 1780, quickly becoming a center of governance and industry.
During the Civil War, Richmond served as the capital of the Confederate States of America. It was one of the most important and fiercely contested cities in the conflict. Much of the city’s industry, such as the Tredegar Iron Works, supplied the Confederate army. When Union forces captured Richmond in April 1865, much of the city was destroyed by fires set by the Confederates as they retreated. Following the war, Richmond became a focal point for Reconstruction.
In the 20th century, Richmond emerged as a modern Southern city, with a diverse economy beyond tobacco and manufacturing. The civil rights movement left its mark here, as residents pushed for desegregation and equality. More recently, Richmond has undergone a major revival, with an expanding culture and arts scene, revitalized historic districts, and a reckoning with its Confederate past. Today, Richmond represents a dynamic blend of old and new—a city that honors its complex history while continuing to evolve for the better.
Day 1 – Downtown and the James River Area
Virginia State Capitol Building – We started our first day in the heart of Richmond, visiting the Virginia State Capitol building, the oldest continually used Capitol in the United States, with the longest serving Legislative body. Designed by Thomas Jefferson in collaboration with French architect Charles-Louis Clérisseau, the white neoclassical building overlooks downtown from its position high up on Capitol Square. It is considered by many to be one of the most beautiful landmarks in the United States. The capitol building was completed in 1788, inspired by the ancient Roman temple Maison Carrée, with its clean lines and stately columns reflecting Jefferson’s Enlightenment ideals of democracy and civic virtue. The building also served as the capitol of the Confederate States of America during the American Civil War.
We entered the building from the modern subterranean visitor’s center located off Bank Street. Upon reaching the lobby of the historic structure, an elegant woman with a thick southern drawl greeted us and provided us a history of the building. The capitol building has been visited by numerous famous people, including Winston Churchill, the Marquis de LaFayette, Charles Dickens, and numerous presidents. In 2007, Queen Elizabeth II visited the capitol as part of a broader trip commemorating the 400th anniversary of Jamestown. She privately met with survivors of the Virginia Tech University shooting which occurred just before her visit. We made our way to the second floor where the magnificent two-story rotunda holds a 6’2” tall, life-size white marble statue of George Washington, considered to be one of his most accurate representations. To either side of the rotunda are halls leading to glass doors offering views to both the House and Senate chambers.
The capitol’s surrounding grounds offer beautiful gardens and sculptures, including a large equestrian statue of George Washington, the Virginia Civil Rights Memorial, and the Virginia Women’s Monument.
Shockoe Slip and Shockoe Bottom – From the capitol, we made our way down the hill toward Shockoe Slip, a historic neighborhood filled with cobblestone streets lined with restored tobacco warehouses containing restaurants, boutiques and galleries. Nearby is Canal Walk, a 1.25 mile path along the old Kanawha Canal that parallels the James River, reflecting Richmond’s early role as a trading hub. Here, visitors can take a 40 minute boat tour (April thru November) learning about Richmond’s colorful history.
Walking east along East Main Street, we came to another historic neighborhood, Shockoe Bottom. It was Richmond’s original business district and once the center of the domestic slave trade. Today, it is home to historic buildings including the Poe Museum, dedicated to writer and poet Edgar Allen Poe, who spent most of his youth in Richmond. The building, known as the Old Stone House, is the oldest residential building still standing in the city. The museum contains one of the world’s most comprehensive collections of Poe artifacts, as well as resident black cats named after his famous characters. Other attractions include the Virginia Holocaust Museum, the Richmond African Burial Ground, numerous art galleries, bars, the Richmond Night Market and the historic and handsome Beaux-Arts style Main Street train station.
The Historic James River Area – No trip to Richmond is complete without spending time along the James River, a defining landmark and focal point for much of the city’s history. Once a hub of the city’s early industry, the river has since been transformed into a place for entertainment and adventure, attracting festivals, concert goers, history buffs, kayakers, paddleboarders and hikers.
We started at the Virginia War Memorial, located on a hill overlooking the river. It is dedicated to Virginians who have given their lives in military service from World War II to the present day. The centerpiece is the Shrine of Memory which includes a striking 24 foot tall statue of a robed woman holding a laurel branch. She represents the spirit of remembrance, watching over the names of 12,000 of Virginia’s fallen heroes engraved on adjacent glass and stone walls.
A friendly veteran and guide told us that we could easily walk down to the river, insisting that we visit the American Civil War Museum. Located within a historic Tredegar Iron Works building, the museum tells the story of one of the most defining chapters in U.S. history. Artifacts and exhibits describe the Civil War from multiple perspectives—Union and Confederate soldiers, enslaved and free African Americans, and civilians caught in the upheaval of war. It also details how the war impacted Richmond itself, especially as presented through a short but fascinating movie.
Afterward, we walked through nearby Brown’s Island, a park featuring the Emancipation and Freedom Monument that marked the 150th anniversary of the Emancipation Proclamation and the abolition of slavery in the United States. The monument features two 12-foot bronze statues representing a man, woman, and infant newly freed from slavery. We crossed the river along the T. Tyler Potterfield Memorial Bridge which connects to the Old Manchester neighborhood and provides perfect views of the river’s rapids and the growing Richmond skyline in the background.
Agecroft Hall and Gardens – In the afternoon, we toured Agecroft Hall and Gardens located in Richmond’s Windsor Farms neighborhood. The sprawling Tudor style home looks like something straight out of medieval England – and that is because it is. The 15th century manor home was originally built on the banks of the River Irwell in Lancashire, England and owned by of the well-regarded Langley and Dauntesey families. In 1925, Richmond businessman T.C. Williams Jr. purchased the then abandoned home and had portions of it carefully dismantled and shipped across the Atlantic. He had it reconstructed on farmland which was later subdivided into the upscale Windsor Farms residential development. Our guide noted that only one-third of the original home was actually transported, and it was assembled into the current unique layout. Today, the rooms such as the Great Hall are furnished with period antiques, tapestries, and leaded-glass windows, transporting visitors back to the English Tudor era.
The home is surrounded by stunning formal Elizabethan gardens overlooking the James River. My favorite is the colorful Sunken Gardens, based on the Pond Garden at Hampton Court Palace in England. Agecroft Hall also hosts events such as the Richmond Shakespeare Festival in summer.
Day 2 – Historic Neighborhoods and the Museum District
The Fan District – We started our day walking through one of the most beautiful neighborhoods in Richmond or the United States for that matter. This early streetcar suburb is my favorite area of Richmond, and it is here where we rented an Airbnb because of the area’s charm and central location. Its name is derived from the unique street layout that forms the shape of a fan. The development of the neighborhood began in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, quickly becoming one of the city’s most fashionable residential areas, home to professionals, artists, and academics drawn to its proximity to Virginia Commonwealth University (VCU). The streets are lined with homes featuring a variety of architectural styles – Victorian, Edwardian, Colonial Revival, and Italianate. Large brick homes feature ornate ironwork, colorful facades and welcoming grand porches, and small cafes and shops are tucked away on corners offering an eclectic flair to the neighborhood. Today, the neighborhood is home to a mix of retirees, young professionals, families and students who attend nearby VCU.
The Fan’s most attractive street is Monument Avenue, a long wide landscaped boulevard lined with stately homes. The street was previously known for its series of statues honoring Confederate leaders such as Robert E. Lee and Stonewall Jackson. In the wake of protests over the murder of George Floyd in 2020, these monuments became focal points in national and local discussions about race and history. Most of the statues were eventually removed, with the exception of one dedicated to local hero and professional tennis player Arthur Ashe. The removal of the other statues marked a profound turning point in Richmond’s relationship with its Confederate past.
Carytown – We had lunch and did some shopping in Carytown located west of downtown and south of the Fan and often called Richmond’s “Mile of Style.” This colorful, creative and eclectic neighborhood stretches along West Cary Street, lined with unique and locally owned boutiques, vintage shops, restaurants, bars and galleries. One of my favorites is Brick and Mortar Mercantile, a fun and edgy store selling an eclectic variety of clothing, gifts, books and home décor. The distinctly designed Cary Court Park and Shop is a favorite of Art Deco lovers, with its granite veneer, limestone parapet, curved windows and aluminum and glass doors. It was built in 1938 and was Richmond’s first strip mall, and today it is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. The historic Byrd Theater stands at the neighborhood’s heart. This ornate movie palace was opened in 1928, and the original Wurlitzer organ is played before each movie. It is also a key venue for the Richmond International Film Festival held each September.
Museum District – North of Carytown lies the Museum District, where we spent an afternoon immersing ourselves with art and culture. We checked out the Virginia Museum of Fine Arts (VMFA), which I had visited once before. This exceptional and free museum has over 50,000 works of art on several levels within a large contemporary building. The museum’s diverse range of collections include Fabergé eggs and jewelry, African art, American art, European art, photography, contemporary art, and ancient art and artifacts from throughout the world. I especially enjoyed the beautifully designed outdoor lawn and gardens, filled with fountains, waterfalls and sculptures, that attracted a multitude of people on the beautiful clear warm day we visited.
Across the street, the Virginia Museum of History & Culture offers an engaging story of the Commonwealth’s rich past. The museum offers exhibits, multimedia displays, and artifacts of Virginia’s Indigenous peoples, the colonial era to the Civil War, Reconstruction, and the modern age.
Scott’s Addition – As the sun set, we made our way to Scott’s Addition, a once-industrial zone near the Fan, now transformed into Richmond’s craft beverage district and one of the city’s hottest neighborhoods. The revitalization of Scott’s Addition began when Virginia changed its blue laws allowing breweries to sell beer on-site without food. Numerous warehouses were restored to house breweries, cideries and distilleries. New restaurants, coffee shops, entertainment and cultural facilities followed, and now several loft style residential complexes have opened, with more on the way. Venues like Veil Brewing Company attract a crowd of young professionals both inside and on the large outdoor patio.
Restaurants
Before we left for our trip, my friend Shana, who has spent a lot of time in Richmond, sent me a list of her suggested restaurants to check out. We went to some on the list, and found others along the way.
Early Bird Biscuit Company – Located in the heart of the Fan District, this restaurant looks like your grandmother’s kitchen, with antique furniture and appliances, framed photos on the wall, and rolling pins. It serves coffee and a variety of biscuit sandwiches and other pastries. The wait was long, but the biscuit sandwiches were well worth it.
Lunch.Supper! – This large restaurant in the trendy Scott’s Addition neighborhood has two buildings – one for brunch / lunch, and the other for supper, as well as outdoor seating. The classic southern smokehouse features menu items such as pulled pork BBQ, pork rinds with pimento cheese, fried green tomatoes, shrimp and grits, chicken and waffles and more.
The Daily Kitchen and Bar – Located in Carytown, this restaurant serves ‘health conscious, environmentally friendly, and socially responsible’ foods, including sandwiches, pizzas, salads and bowls, and includes an outdoor patio.
Kuba Kuba – We enjoyed an excellent lunch at this very reasonably priced, low key Cuban restaurant located in the Fan district. I especially liked the coconut risotto cakes served with black beans and a corn salsa.
Sabai Thai – This small but trendy restaurant located on West Broad Street serves authentic Thai food in a modern industrial space. I enjoyed the delicious Kao Pad Sapparaot, a pineapple fried rice served with meat in a hallowed out pineapple.
Getting There and Around
Richmond is centrally located along the east coast of the United States and located at the crossroads of Interstates 95 and 64. The city is about a two hour drive from Washington D.C. The Richmond International Airport, just seven miles from downtown, offers 150 daily flights on nine airlines, with nonstop service to major domestic destinations. Travelers can also reach the city via Amtrak, which operates out of the Staples Mill Road Station north of the city, and Main Street Station near downtown.
Once in town, there are a variety of ways to get around. The Greater Richmond Transit Company (GRTC) operates a network of local and express buses that connect major neighborhoods, universities, and attractions. The Pulse Bus Rapid Transit (BRT) line runs along Broad Street from Rocketts Landing in the east to Willow Lawn in the west, providing fast and frequent service through the city’s core. Rideshare services such as Uber and Lyft, and taxi service such as Excellence Taxi Cab are also widely available.
Richmond is a very walkable city, with the streets laid out in a connected grid fashion. The city’s relatively compact nature and beautiful neighborhoods make walking an attractive and easy way to get around. The city is also an increasingly bike-friendly city, with a growing network of protected lanes, greenways, and trails. The city’s bike-share program and rental shops make it easy for visitors to explore neighborhoods like Carytown, the Fan District, and Shockoe Bottom on two wheels.