Iceland is a must see country, and is known for its many waterfalls, geysers, glaciers, thermal pools and beautiful rugged terrain.
Iceland is one of my favorite countries. I visited in the summer of 2009 when Icelandair initiated non-stop service between Seattle and Reykjavik, and offered five day travel packages. Those five days included a couple of days in Reykjavik, and a few days on a bus traveling along the southern coast and back through the Golden Triangle. It was enough to introduce me to some of the country’s most famous sites primarily along the southern coast, but also planted a seed for future trips to see more. While the weather can be unpredictable, even during summer, I was lucky to experience sunny days with temperatures in the 60’s and 70’s. During winter, Iceland will be covered with snow, but summer is when you will be greeted everywhere with the lush green barren landscape.
English is taught as a second language in Iceland, and nearly everyone speaks it fluently. Below are some of the highlights that I experienced on this too short of a trip.
Reykjavik
Reykjavik, located in the southwest part of Iceland on the Seltjarnarnes peninsula, is its cultural, economic, and government center. The metropolitan population is about 234,000, and it is the only real city of any size in the country. Keflavik International Airport is located about 20 miles to the west at the end of the peninsula. The drive from the airport to Reykjavik introduces first time visitors to the beautiful but barren, rugged landscape of the country.
Reykjavik is a compact, well organized, and very clean city built on a smaller peninsula extending out into the cold North Atlantic Ocean. It’s a mixture of modern glass high rises, simple but colorful stucco or wooden homes, and more modest functional grey concrete apartment buildings, covered with green and red metal roofs. The downtown area extends eastward from the harbor on the north side of the peninsula. Ingolfur Square is the main gathering spot, and is surrounded by hotels, shops and restaurants. A few blocks south of the square is the modern glass City Hall, which sits on the north edge of Tjornin Lake and park. If you go inside the lobby, you will find a large 3D relief map of the country which provides a good geographic introduction to the country.
A few blocks north of Ingolfur Square is the harbor, where visitors can watch the many fishing vessels or purchase whale watching tours. Close to the harbor, on Tryggvagata Street, is the famous Baejarins Beztu Pylsur hot dog stand. These tasty long hot dogs are made with lamb meat, and snap when you take a bite from them. Bill Clinton made the tiny red painted hot dog stand famous when he visited in 2004.
From the square, head east on Austurstraeti, which then becomes Bankastraeti (Bank Street), and then becomes Laugavegur. This attractive and popular corridor is where most of the commercial activity is located, including restaurants, coffee shops, retail stores, visitor centers, and hotels. Here you can find many places that sell tour packages, and the more popular souvenir items including chocolate, wool sweaters, and skin care products. Various tours and activities throughout Iceland can also be purchased ahead of time at Viator.
The famous tall church, Hallgrimskirkja, is located south of Laugavegur, along Frakkastigur (street). This Lutheran church is known for its curved spire and side wings. The church began construction in 1945, and wasn’t completed until 1986. Since then, it has become a symbol for Iceland’s national identity.
Waterfalls
Iceland is blessed with stunning waterfalls throughout the country, and I was only able to see a small number of them, including the following described below.
Seljalandfoss – Visitors can hike up a trail that encircles, and goes behind the 200 foot tall waterfall. Located off the Ring Road (Highway 1), about 100 miles east of Reykjavik.
Skogafoss – One of the most beautiful waterfalls in Iceland, especially when captured with a rainbow. The cliffs around the wide waterfall are former sea-cliffs when the shoreline was by Skógarfoss. A narrow trail allows you to hike toward the top for a nice view of both the waterfall and the valley below. Continue east about 14 miles from Seljandfoss on the Ring Road.
Systrafoss– This waterfall seems to drape down the hillside that it is on. It is located off the Ring Road east of Vik.
Svartifoss – This waterfall is located within Skaftafell / Vatnajokull National Park, about 40 miles further east from Systrafoss on the Ring Road. The 60 foot tall waterfall is surrounded by basalt rocks. Getting to the waterfall requires an hour hike along a trail from the trailhead at the visitors center.
Hjalparfoss – This two stepped waterfall flows into a large plunge pool located near the confluence of Rivers Thjorsa and Fossa in the Thjorsa Valley. It can be accessed from Highway 32, about 72 miles east of Reykjavik.
Gullfoss – Gullfoss (or Golden Falls) is the most iconic waterfall in Iceland, and can be accessed as part of the Golden Circle tour. The viewpoint allows visitors to see the two stages of the waterfall that are surrounded by a large canyon. The first drop is 36 feet, while the second drop is 69 feet.
The Village of Vik and Surroundings
The town of Vik is near the southern most part of Iceland, off of the Ring road approximately 100 miles east of Reykjavik. Vik is a remote seafront village that sits in the shadow of Mýrdalsjökull glacier, which covers the Katla volcano. A wooden church in the town dating is 1929 is named Reyniskirkja.
One of the most interesting sites in Vik is the large black sand Reynisfjara Beach, where basalt columns and offshore rock formations can be viewed. The cliffs of Reynisfjall mountain are home to seabirds such as puffins. From the beach, you can look back toward the town and beautiful green mountains that loom over Vik.
Near Vik is the Dyrholaey lighthouse built in 1927. The lighthouse consists of a square concrete tower, painted white with red trim. From the lighthouse, there are amazing views of the beach, and the Dyrholaey natural arch.
Fjallabak Nature Reserve
Fjallabak Nature Reserve is a beautiful area inland from the southern coast of Iceland. It is characterized by colorful mountains (green, blue, pink, red and yellow), geothermal valleys and volcanic activity. Hiking trails allow visitors to see all of these sites. At the camping grounds is a natural hot spring that I relaxed in. The reserve is accessible from Highway F208 which turns off the Ring road 25 miles east of Vik.
Vatnajokull National Park
Vatnajokull National Park located off of the Ring road approximately 100 miles east of Vik, is home to the Vatnajokull glacier, the largest glacier in Europe. It covers 8% of Iceland’s landmass, but sadly is shrinking due to climate change. A large glacial lagoon named Jokulsarlon, is on the southern end of the park and at the edge of the Atlantic Ocean. Within the lake are luminous blue colored icebergs. Boat (amphibious vehicles) and kayak tours within the lake are available.
The Golden Circle Tour
The Golden Circle is a 186 mile tour that allows visitors to see three natural attractions, including Gullfoss (See above), the Geyser Geothermal area, and Pingvellir National Park.
Geyser Geothermal Area – This area of the Haukadalur Valley has a number of active hot springs and geysers including Geysir, and the powerflul Strokkur. A nearby natural pool, Kualaug, allows bathers to enjoy the 106 degree waters.
Another part of the Golden Triangle is Thingvellir National Park. It is here that the Icelandic parliament was founded in the year 930. Thingvellir is surrounded by mountains and volcanic ranges, and is located in a rift valley that separates the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates.
The Blue Lagoon
I made a stop at the Blue Lagoon, on my last day, before heading to the airport. The Blue Lagoon is one of the more well known places in Iceland, and the name references the milky blue color of the water due to its high silica content. The lagoon is a geothermal spa located in a lava field, supplied by water used in the nearby Svartsengi geothermal power station. The lagoon is a commercial recreational site that includes the lagoon itself, a spa, restaurants and hotels. The water’s average temperature ranges from 99 to 102 degrees Fahrenheit, and is the perfect place for spending an afternoon bathing and swimming. It is located off of Highway 43, which connects to Highway 41 that leads to the airport.