Located in the Visayan Islands of the central Philippines is a tropical paradise that has captivated the hearts of island lovers for decades – Boracay, once named the best island in the world by Condé Nast. Renowned for its pristine white sand beaches, crystal-clear waters, swaying palm trees, magical sunsets, nightlife, and restaurants serving a variety of international cuisines, the small, four mile long island of Boracay continues to enchant visitors from across the world.
My first trip to Boracay was in 1996 when I journeyed to the Philippines to visit relatives including my 96 year old ‘lola’ (grandmother). At that time, I explored various regions of the country, including Manila, Baguio, located in the mountains of northern Luzon, Cebu (the Philippine’s second largest city), and Dumaguete, where my father hailed from. This was followed by a trip in 1999 as part of a larger trip to Japan. Back then, Boracay was primarily a haven for backpackers, characterized by small hotels, guesthouses and beachfront bars and restaurants. I spent time lounging the day away on White Beach, or taking a small boat to a floating beach bar. On the beach I befriended a local stray puppy. One day I rented a moped and rode the dirt trails to explore the various reaches of the island including the pristine and undeveloped Puka Beach on the north end. At night, I joined hundreds of others to watch the magical sunset, followed by reveling in the nightlife offered at the many bars and restaurants.
Boracay has changed a lot since then. By the mid 2000’s, word had gotten out, and Boracay was attracting tens of thousands of tourists per day. With it came the negative aspects of over-tourism – an overabundance of hotels and large resorts, beach peddlers, bars and beach beds expanding into the beach, fire dancers and pollution. In 2017, nearly 2 million people visited the island, compared with a hundred thousand in the mid 90s.
A Cleaned Up Boracay
In 2018, under the former administration of President Rodrigo Duterte, tourism was shut down over a 6-month period to clean up what he referred to as a “cesspool.” A number of initiatives were implemented to manage tourism responsibly and protect the island’s fragile ecosystems. The government created building setbacks, and demolished sections of several hundred hotels, restaurants and other businesses that had been built too close to the water and in forests and wetlands. The sewer system was upgraded, and illegal sewer pipes along the beaches were removed. Single use plastics are now banned, and motorboats are confined to two floating docks. White Beach is no longer filled with beach beds or fire dancers, and the crystal clear teal colored water is much cleaner. Boracay has been promoted as a sustainable ecotourism destination rather than a party hot spot.
I visited Boracay for my third time during a recent 12 day cruise throughout Southeast Asia, and discovered just how much has changed since the 90s. The hotel I stayed at is no longer there, replaced by a larger more upscale hotel. Improved, paved roads connect the different parts of the island, including Puka Beach, which may not be for the best. An attractive commercial center, called “D’Mall Boracay” is lined with seating areas and more formal restaurants, shops and bars. While the island is substantially built up, it hasn’t yet been inundated with high rise hotels.
Time will tell if the sustainable practices and restrictions will remain in place. A task force that was set up to oversee development dissolved in 2022, and oversight of the island was returned to the local government. There has been some discussion on whether to change the cap on enforcing the number of daily visitors.
Boracay’s Many White Sand Beaches
Boracay boasts a myriad of white sand beaches, each with its own unique charm. All of these beaches can be accessed by hiring a tricycle, taking a private boat, or as part of an island hopping tour. If using a tricycle, it is best to arrange a return pick up time, since there may not be available tricycles waiting at the beach. I’ve listed the beaches, starting with White Beach, in clockwise rotation around the island.
White Beach – White Beach, named for its powdery white sand, is the most famous stretch of coastline on the island, and is known for its breathtaking sunsets. This beach is over two miles long. Visitors can indulge in a myriad of water sports activities, from snorkeling and diving to parasailing and jet-skiing, as well as dine or drink at any of the dozens of restaurants and bars lining the beach. White Beach is divided into designated stations, numbering from Station 1 through Station 3 (arranged north to south), to help visitors better understand the locations of various attractions. Station area 2 is the most popular, and crowded section of beach, and where most of the hotels and restaurants are located. A picture-worthy volcanic rock formation, known as Willy’s Rock, lies just off the beach near Station 1. A shrine dedicated to the Blessed Virgin Mary sits on the east side of the formation, with steps leading to the shrine.
Diniwid Beach – Diniwid Beach is a small secluded beach north of White Beach. A few small resorts surround it, and there are some restaurants as well. Access is from Diniwid Road, which is off the main road near the City Mall.
Balinghai Beach – Balinghai is a remote beach, hidden beneath a cliff, located north of Diniwid Beach. It is only visible during low tides and is surrounded by lava rocks. Access is via a stairwell from Balinghai Road.
Punta Bunga Beach – North of Balinghai is Punta Bunga Beach. It sits behind the Shangri-La, Movenpick and Crimson resorts. Public access is from the end of Punta Bunga Road. Visitors entering from the hotels will be asked to provide their room number, so let them know you are a public visitor.
Puka Beach – Puka Beach, located at the far end north of the island, is for those seeking a quieter scene and unspoiled beauty. This half mile long beach is named after the abundance of Puka shells that adorn its shores. In fact, the white sand contains bits of coral, making it a bit more coarse than White Beach. This beach is perfect for leisurely strolls and quiet moments of reflection. The beach is lined by a lush tropical forest and tall coconut trees. At night, visitors can spot the fruit bats, known as flying foxes. There are a few souvenir shops and restaurants located near the entrance to the beach. The restaurants serve beers and cocktails.
Ilig-Iligan Beach – Located around the corner from Puka, on the northeast side of the island is Ilig-Iligan Beach, a beautiful and somewhat secluded beach. There are few resorts in this area of the island. From the main road that leads to Puka, at the fork, go to the right on Boracay Batcave Beach Road. Another option is from Newcoast Road, which leads to the Savoy Hotel, with the beach just beyond.
Bulabog Beach – Bulabog is located on the east side of the island, and is a mile long. While it doesn’t offer a sunset, early risers can enjoy a beautiful sunrise. This beach has far fewer hotels and restaurants than White Beach, which in some ways makes it more attractive. It is also one of the country’s top kite surfing bays, especially between November and April, also known as the windy season. There are numerous opportunities to rent a kite or take lessons.
Tambisaan Beach – South of Bulabog, on the southeast corner of the island, is Tambisaan Beach. Offshore is Crocodile Island, a favorite spot for scuba and snorkeling. There are a few shops, small resorts and restaurants near the beach. Access is from Boracay Jetty Port Road.
Activities on Boracay
All types of water sports are available on Boracay, including stand up paddleboarding, kite surfing, parasailing, jet skiing, snorkeling and scuba diving. Other island activities include helicopter tours, island hopping, sunset cruises, and ATV tours. Activities can be arranged through Viator, Booking.com or through Guide to the Philippines. While most venues accept credit cards, it is advisable to carry some cash. When I ordered food at one particular restaurant, the owner had to borrow a credit card machine from another store. There are some ATM’s and money exchange centers on the island as well.
Snorkeling and Diving – Beneath the beautiful teal waters of Boracay lies a vibrant underwater world waiting to be explored. The island is home to an array of dive sites suitable for divers of all levels, from beginners to experienced enthusiasts. There are about 25 dive sites around Boracay accessible by a short boat ride. There are numerous dive and snorkel shops located throughout the island, but mostly along White Beach.
Yapak, also known as the Boracay Wall, is a popular dive site renowned for its dramatic underwater landscapes and diverse marine life. This challenging site is reserved for experienced divers because of the depth and current. Here, divers can encounter colorful coral gardens, majestic sea turtles, and a kaleidoscope of tropical fish including Barracudas, Dogtooth Tunas, and Trevallies. Whitetip and Blacktip Reef sharks can also be spotted.
Crocodile Island is a beautiful dive site located off the southeast corner of the island near Tambisaan Beach. The uninhabited small island is aptly named due to its appearance similar to a crocodile when viewing it from the southwest. Surrounding it are stunning coral reefs teeming with colorful fish and marine life, and a diverse underwater terrain. With depths ranging from 5 to 30 meters, Crocodile Island is suitable for both novice and experienced divers, and divers can expect to see frogfish, pipefish, and other exotic sea creatures.
Restaurants and Nightlife
Boracay is a foodie haven. There are restaurants located throughout the island, ranging from low budget to upscale, featuring both Filipino and international cuisine, as well as seafood. A list of some of the best restaurants can be found here. There are also numerous beach clubs along White Beach that allow visitors to spend time lounging in front of the beach, as long as food and drinks are purchased. We spent time at Smooth Café and Lounge, where we enjoyed tropical drinks, a delicious Bolognese pasta and Russian pelmeni dumplings.
The nightlife scene is not what it used to be on Boracay. Once dubbed the ‘Ibiza of Asia,’ Boracay’s bars are not as teeming as they once were, since the island’s rehabilitation occurred. There is a Pub Crawl (available through Viator) that allows travelers to visit numerous bars, and includes entrance fees and welcome shots and drink specials.
As the day draws to a close, Boracay comes alive with energy as beachfront bars and restaurants prepare for the island’s legendary sunset parties. People gather along the shores of White Beach to witness the sky ablaze with hues of orange and pink as the sun dips below the horizon.
Smoking is not allowed on the White Beach, or at restaurants and bars. There are designated smoking areas. Alcohol is not permitted on the beach, and is only permitted in bars and restaurants.
Shopping
D’Mall – Near Station 2 on White Beach is D’Mall, the largest commercial area of the island. This open air vibrant mall has a variety of shops and restaurants along multiple parallel alleys connecting White Beach and the main road of Boracay.
D’Talipapa – D’Talipapa is a shopping street located half a mile south of D’Mall, close to Station 3. It is where many of the island’s seafood restaurants are located. There is also a fish market, and visitors can purchase the seafood at the market and bring it to one of the many nearby restaurants who will then cook it for a modest fee.
City Mall – City mall is a modern air-conditioned shopping center located in the northern part of Boracay, just past Station 1 near the turn off to Diniwid Beach. This single level mall has the largest supermarket on the island.
When to Visit Boracay
Anytime is a good time to visit Boracay, but there are generally two seasons. The peak season is also the dry season, which lasts between December and May. During holidays, such as Christmas, New Year, and Easter, the island tends to be more crowded, and therefore the hotel rates are generally higher.
The off-season is also the wet season, which occurs between June and November. The temperature is a bit cooler, and scattered rain showers or tropical storms are more likely. However, the airfares and hotel rates are lower during this period.
Getting to Boracay
Visitors to Boracay must show a printed voucher of their resort or hotel in order to access the island. The closest airport to Boracay is in Caticlan on the adjacent island of Panay. Air service is available from Manila and Cebu to Caticlan. In addition, there is an airport in Kalibo, also on Panay, but two hours from the port. Flights to Kalibo are generally cheaper than flights to Caticlan. From the Kalibo airport, there are bus and van operators that travel the two hour ride to the Caticlan port. From the port, a ferry will transport visitors to the Cagban Jetty Port on Boracay Island, where they are greeted by local drummers, musicians and dancers. From the jetty port, visitors can arrange a tricycle or hotel van to access their final destination.
A number of cruises also visit Boracay, which require tenders to transport visitors to the Cagban Jetty Port. Norwegian, Holland America, Seabourne and Crystal are among the cruise lines with stops at Boracay. Some cruises offer excursions where passengers can transport from the jetty port to a smaller boat to take them directly to White Beach.
Getting Around Boracay
By Tricycle – This is the best choice if you’re going with 2 or more people. They usually charge ₱150 (~USD $3). There are also electric tricycles which carry more people and are more comfortable.
By Motorcycle – Some locals offer trips anywhere on the island on their motorcycles. Going to a place as far as Puka, they usually charge around ₱100-150 (~USD $2-$3), depending on which part of the island you come from. They can carry up to 2 people persons.
By Private Boat – You can rent a private boat to reach the various beaches on Boracay.
This blog beautifully captures the charm and excitement of Boracay! I love how it shares both relaxing and adventurous activities—from beach lounging to island hopping and parasailing. The mention of places like Mount Luho and the local markets adds a nice touch, showing that there’s more to explore beyond the beach. The tips are practical and helpful, especially for first-time visitors. The photos are stunning and make me want to book a trip right away. Thank you for sharing such a fun and informative guide—Boracay truly looks like a paradise worth discovering and experiencing for yourself!