Early this year, I visited Hobart for the first time, as part of a two-week cruise through New Zealand and Australia. Arriving in Hobart’s port, I was immediately struck by how the city felt both remote and familiar. It’s waterfront harbor and low-rise skyline reminded me of other medium sized port cities like Halifax and Portland, Maine. Other aspects, such as the city’s isolated location at the southern tip of Tasmania, and the surrounding hillsides and mountains blanketed with forests gave it an air of mystique. The city is framed by the rugged beauty of Mount Wellington and the wide Derwent River, and as Australia’s southernmost city, it feels like the edge of the world. We had only one day to explore Hobart, but its compact size and relaxed pace made it quite easy. Hobart’s combination of colonial heritage, beautiful natural surroundings, and creative spirit make it a city that is definitely worth exploring.
History of Hobart
Founded in 1804, Hobart is Australia’s second-oldest capital city. It was established as a British penal settlement when Lieutenant-Governor David Collins led a group of soldiers, convicts, and settlers from Port Phillip (now Victoria) to the banks of the River Derwent. Prior to British colonization, the area was inhabited for 35,000 years by Aboriginal Tasmanians known as the Palawa. The Mouheneener tribe saw early conflicts with European settlers, and their population largely dwindled due to introduced diseases. Much of the city’s infrastructure, including stone buildings, roads and docks, was built by convicts. Hobart’s deep natural harbor (the second deepest in the world) made it a strategic port for whaling, sealing, and trade with the Australian mainland. Hobart quickly grew from a remote outpost into a vibrant maritime city and later a hub for Antarctic exploration and Tasmanian industry. During the late 19th and early 20th centuries, other industries grew, such as shipbuilding, mining and agriculture. Today, Hobart has grown to a population of about 200,000, which is still quite small compared to the capital cities in other Australian states. It is the financial and administrative hub for Tasmania and is the home port to Australian and French Antarctic operations.
Downtown and the Waterfront
We started our day in downtown Hobart, the heart of the city. It contains a blend of old-world charm, modern vibrancy and a picturesque waterfront that is filled with piers catering to various types of boats. At Victoria Dock, we watched fishing boats and Antarctic research vessels dock. Nearby, Constitution Dock is filled with yachts and numerous fish and chip shops and bars. Every December, it is the finishing line of the world-famous Sydney to Hobart Yacht Race. We made our way to the Brooke Street Pier, a floating shopping and dining complex extending over the harbor, where we browsed some souvenir and craft shops and purchased tickets for the double-decker Hop On Hop Off bus, which provided a fun way to get around and see the sights while making the best use of our time.
The core of the downtown is comprised of a mixture of historic colonial style buildings and modern mid-rise buildings, surrounded by attractive shaded green spaces like Franklin Square, Parliament House Gardens, and Saint David’s Park. The Elizabeth Street Mall is a lively outdoor pedestrian mall lined with shops and restaurants, with plenty of canopies and trees to provide shade. The Cat and Fiddle Arcade, located between Elizabeth Street and Murray Street, is an enclosed shopping center with over 70 shops and restaurants. Elizabeth Street extends to the North Hobart neighborhood, a lively area known for its eclectic dining scene and small bars serving Tasmanian wines and craft beers
We happened to catch the Farm Gate Farmer’s Market, held each Sunday (8:30 am – 1:00 pm) on Bathurst Street. We passed dozens of produce stands and street food vendors, where everything sold is produced within Tasmania. The market aims to be sustainable and plastic free, with most of its packaging 100% compostable.
Salamanca Place – We walked to historic Salamanca Place, located on the south side of the harbor. Salamanca once bustled with whalers and traders and was the heart of Tasmania’s colonial life. Many of its historic 19th century Georgian sandstone warehouses now house cafés, art galleries, and boutiques. The Salamanca Market, open on Saturdays (8:30am – 3pm) holds over 300 stalls selling fresh produce, baked goods, cheese, local crafts, local crafts, and live music.
Battery Point – Just past Salamanca, Castray Esplanade leads to Battery Point, one of Hobart’s most charming and historic neighborhoods. Another way to reach Battery Point is by taking Kelly’s Steps directly from Salamanca up to Kelly Street which leads to the heart of the neighborhood. Battery Point was named after a military battery was established on the point in 1818 to defend the harbor. By the mid 19th century, the area grew into a thriving maritime community. We walked along winding cobblestone lanes, passing sandstone cottages, churches, and cafes while taking in the views of the Derwent River. Streets like Hampden Road are lined with beautifully preserved Georgian and Victorian houses, quaint cafés, and antique shops. Arthur Circus, originally built for officers from nearby Anglesea Barracks, features a ring of cottages surrounding a small oval park. The Narryna Merchant’s House is a museum within a merchant’s house built in 1834 by Captain Andrew Haig who built warehouses facing Salamanca Place. Its collection tells the story of early colonial life in Hobart. On Battery Point’s highest spot sits the stately Saint George’s Anglican Church built in 1838.
Hobart’s Museums
Tasmanian Museum and Art Gallery – We spent an hour at the Tasmanian Museum and Art Gallery (TMAG), located in a collection of historic buildings facing the harbor. The museum was established in 1846, and is Australia’s second-oldest museum, with its origins in the collections of the Royal Society of Tasmania. One of its buildings includes the city’s oldest surviving structure, the Commissariat Store, built in 1808. The galleries showcase both historical works as well as contemporary Tasmanian creativity, telling Tasmania’s diverse stories—from the island’s unique wildlife and geology to its Indigenous heritage and colonial past. Highlights include aboriginal artifacts, pieces by colonial artists who captured the early landscapes Tasmania, alongside bold modern pieces of art. TMAG also shines a light on Tasmania’s connection to the Southern Ocean, featuring exhibits about Antarctic science and exploration, including replicas of early explorer huts.
The Museum of Old and New Art – The Museum of Old and New Art (MONA) opened in 2011 along the waterfront of the Berriedale Peninsula. The museum is the largest privately funded museum in the Southern Hemisphere, and houses 1,900 works from David Walsh, a local businessman and art collector. The works include ancient and contemporary art with central themes of sex and death. Visiting MONA is as much an experience as it is a museum. It is housed within an extraordinary, contemporary building built partially beneath the ground. A spiral staircase leads to numerous subterranean galleries that challenge perceptions and invite reflection. The museum includes several upscale restaurants on its property, including Faro Bar and Restaurant, the Source, Heavy Metal Kitchen and Moorilla Winery, and bookings can be made on the museum webpage.
A fun and easy way to get to the museum is via a high speed catamaran ferry which leaves the Brooke Street Pier approximately every hour. The ferry makes its way up the Derwent River before reaching the museum in Berriedale. The ride is approximately 30 minutes.
Cascade Brewery
One of the stops on the Hop On Hop Off bus tour was the Cascade Brewery, located in South Hobart. The brewery was originally founded in 1824 by Major Hugh Macintosh and Peter Degraves, early settlers who initially established a sawmill operation on the property The brewery holds the title of Australia’s oldest continuously operating brewery. It is housed within an old red sandstone building. Cascade is unique among Australian breweries and rare among breweries worldwide in that it operates its own maltings, producing malt for its mainstream beers from locally grown barley. Specialty malts for dark beers and the seasonal range are imported from mainland Australia and from overseas.
Visitors can join a guided brewery tour that dives into how barley, hops, and pure mountain water are transformed into Tasmania’s iconic brews. Afterward, relax in the brewery bar and sample a Cascade Pale Ale—one of the nation’s longest-running beers. The brewery also houses a restaurant within the original manager’s house, offering views of the brewing operations and the lush beer garden.
Next door is the Cascades Female Factory, a UNESCO World Heritage listed site and museum of a former workhouse for thousands of imprisoned women and children between 1828 and 1853. It is one of 11 sites that collectively compose the Australian Convict Sites.
The Royal Tasmanian Botanical Gardens
Our last stop was the Royal Tasmanian Botanical Gardens, located above the Derwent River in Queens Domain. Established in 1818, the gardens offer nearly 35 acres of a peaceful escape just minutes from the city center. We spent a couple hours strolling the manicured lawns, shaded groves, the conservatory and numerous gardens while catching sweeping views over the river.
The second-oldest botanical gardens in Australia offer a variety of plant collections including native Tasmanian flora, towering conifers, a Japanese garden, rose garden and rare species from across the world. The Subantarctic Plant House recreates the chilly climate and flora of Macquarie Island, using temperature control and misting systems offering an immersive experience found nowhere else in Australia.
Mount Wellington
While we didn’t have time to visit, those with a more flexible schedule should make sure to visit Mount Wellington, also known by its indigenous name, kunanyi. The mountain towers 4,000 feet over Hobart, making it one of the most recognizable landmarks in the region. It offers breathtaking views and a pristine wilderness just minutes from the city. From its summit, visitors are rewarded with sweeping panoramas of Hobart, the Derwent River, and the Tasman Peninsula. A network of well-marked walking and biking trails wind through temperate rainforests, subalpine landscapes, waterfalls and striking dolerite rock formations. Popular spots include The Springs, a scenic picnic area partway up the mountain; Sphinx Rock, a lookout offering stunning views over the city; and The Organ Pipes, dramatic columns of volcanic rock that attract climbers from around the world.
The Pinnacle Road drive to the summit takes about 30 minutes from downtown Hobart, winding through eucalyptus forests and open alpine terrain. Visitors can opt to take the kunanyi/Mount Wellington Explorer Bus which offers a convenient hop-on, hop-off service with stops at key viewpoints and trailheads. The 50 minute ride to the pinnacle starts at the Brooke Street Pier, leaving every 1.5 hours.
When to Visit Hobart
The best time to visit Hobart depends on the type of experience you’re after, as each season offers its own unique charm. Summer (December to February) is the most popular time for tourists, with long daylight hours, warm but comfortable temperatures averaging around 70°F (21°C), and a festive energy throughout the city. This period invites visitors with major events like the Taste of Summer Festival and the Sydney to Hobart Yacht Race. Autumn (March to May) brings crisp air, fewer crowds, and stunning autumn colors in Hobart’s gardens and surrounding countryside. Winter (June to August) is more quiet, and daytime highs range from about 52°F to 55°F (11°C to 13°C). Visitors will see snow-dusted views of Mount Wellington (kunanyi), and can take part in the avant-garde Dark Mofo Festival, which celebrates art, music, and the winter solstice. Spring (September to November) revives the city with blossoming gardens and mild weather, ideal for outdoor markets and exploring Hobart’s historic districts.
Getting To and Around Hobart
While we arrived by cruise ship, most people arrive to Hobart through the Hobart International Airport, located about ten miles northeast of the city center. Five airlines serve the airport with direct flights from major Australian cities such as Sydney, Melbourne, Brisbane, and Adelaide, as well as destinations like Auckland, New Zealand. Several shuttle bus services operate between the airport and city hotels, while taxis and rideshare options like Uber are also available.
Once in the city, getting around Hobart is easy due to its compact layout and walkable streets. Many of the city’s top attractions, such as Salamanca Place, Battery Point and the waterfront district are within walking distance of each other. For longer distances or to explore surrounding areas, Metro Tasmania operates an efficient public bus system that connects downtown with suburbs and attractions like the Royal Tasmanian Botanical Gardens and MONA. The Hop On Hop Off bus provides a fun way to see the sights via a 90 minute city loop route with designated stops in downtown, Queens Domain, Battery Point, Sandy Bay and South Hobart. The bus leaves the starting point (Travel Centre) at Davey and Elizabeth Street every hour, on the hour.
Rideshare services and taxis are widely available throughout the city for quick trips, and many visitors choose to rent a car for day trips to scenic spots such as Mount Wellington (kunanyi), Richmond, or Port Arthur. Hobart also has developed a growing network of cycling paths, including the scenic Intercity Cycleway, which follows the waterfront north to MONA.
Ferry services offer a fun and scenic way of getting around Hobart. The MONA ferry departs regularly from Brooke Street Pier taking passengers up the Derwent River to the Museum of Old and New Art (MONA) in Berriedale. Other ferries and cruises also operate from the waterfront, with routes to nearby destinations such as Bellerive, Bruny Island, and Peppermint Bay.