I recently made my second visit to Istanbul, a visually and culturally intoxicating city where two continents collide and where ancient history meets the modern world. My last visit was many years ago during college, and much has changed since then. This vibrant metropolis straddles Europe and Asia across the Bosphorus Strait, offering visitors a unique blend of diverse cultures, architectural wonders, rich traditions, and a thriving contemporary scene. This most recent visit to Istanbul was owed to a Turkish Airlines connection, allowing me to spend a couple of days in this fascinating city, before heading off to Greece for an Aegean cruise. Two days does not provide enough time to explore everything there is to do here, but it does allow visits to some of the most noteworthy attractions. I will definitely come back and spend a longer period of time exploring both Istanbul and Turkey.
Istanbul, originally called Byzantium and later Constantinople, has been the capital of three powerful empires— the Roman, Byzantine, and Ottoman, over a 1600 year period. It was founded in the 7th century BC by Greek settlers who built an acropolis adjacent the Golden Horn. In 73 CE, the city became part of the Roman Empire, and in 330 CE, the Roman emperor Constantine the Great made it his imperial capital, naming it in his honor. During this period, Constantinople became a wealthy center of Greek culture and Orthodox Christianity. Numerous churches and monuments were built, including the massive Hagia Sophia, as well as the Hippodrome. As the center of the Byzantine Empire, Constantinople went through periods of prosperity and decline. By the mid 14th century, Ottoman Turks had conquered the city, making it the capital of the Ottoman Empire. During this period, the city underwent massive revitalization, including the construction of aqueducts, palaces, bazaars, and mosques, including the conversion of the Hagia Sophia.
The name “Istanbul” became the official name of the city in 1930, following the establishment of the Turkish Republic in 1923 under Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, the country’s national hero. While locals had used variations of the name “Istanbul” (derived from the Greek phrase “eis tin polin,” meaning “to the city”) for centuries, the official adoption of “Istanbul” marked a symbolic break from the Ottoman past and a move towards national modernization and identity.
The legacy of these past civilizations can still be felt as you walk through the city’s streets, squares, alleys and buildings. Yet Istanbul today is also a modern city appealing to a young and cosmopolitan population. Gleaming skyscrapers provide a contrast to the historic mosques and the region’s modern rapid transit system swiftly carries residents throughout the metropolis. The city has a thriving art scene, vibrant nightlife, and offers an abundance of innovative cuisine. Istanbul is also the most populated city in both Turkey and Europe with over 16 million people residing in the metropolitan area.
The Historic Sultanahmet Neighborhood
Most of the popular and iconic sites within Istanbul can be found in the Fatih District, a large peninsula south of the Golden Horn where the mouth of the Bosphorus meets the Sea of Marmara. We began our exploration by visiting the heart and most historic area of Fatih known as Sultanahmet.
Sultanahmet Square – A good central place for visitors to start their exploration of Istanbul is at the Hippodrome of Constantinople, now known as Sultanahmet Square. Originally constructed in the 3rd century CE by Emperor Septimius Severus and later expanded by Emperor Constantine the Great, the Hippodrome was used for public ceremonies, chariot races, and gladiatorial games. It could hold up to 100,000 spectators, though much of the original structure no longer remains. Several monuments still stand, including the Egyptian Obelisk, the Serpent Column, and the Walled Obelisk, which line the former race track. Today, the site is a bustling public square, offering visitors a glimpse into the city’s Roman and Byzantine history, while providing people watching opportunities of the present day.
Blue Mosque – Adjacent the Hippodrome is the majestic Blue Mosque, officially known as the Sultan Ahmed Mosque. This functioning mosque is one of Istanbul’s most magnificent landmarks, with its six towering minarets and vast central dome that dominates the Sultanahmet skyline. The mosque was completed in 1616 during the reign of Sultan Ahmed I, designed to rival the grandeur of the nearby Hagia Sophia. The interior is adorned with over 20,000 hand-painted blue tiles, which when coupled with the sunlight streaming through 200 stained-glass windows, creates a beautiful atmosphere. While the mosque remains a center for worship, visitors can visit for free during non prayer times. Both men and women should dress modestly, covering their shoulders and knees, and women must cover their head with a scarf. Shoes must also be removed upon entry.
Basilica Cistern – Located beneath the streets of Istanbul is an ancient marvel of engineering. The Basilica Cistern, just north of Sultanahmet Square, was built in the 6th century during the reign of Byzantine Emperor Justinian I. It also starred in the Dan Brown novel “Inferno.” The football field size underground structure was designed to store and supply water to the Great Palace and surrounding buildings. Visitors descend stairs to a cavernous room of 336 marble columns rising above the water, many of which were repurposed from earlier Roman structures. We walked along a metal catwalk which wrapped throughout the cistern, offering a variety of views. One of the most interesting features were two different Medusa head carvings believed to have been used for symbolic or practical reasons. The cistern is both beautiful and surreal, with its dim lighting, sound of dripping water, reflections of columns in the shallow waters, and contemporary art pieces displayed throughout. Tickets can be purchased for about $40 online through sites such as Viator or Headout, allowing visitors to skip the long lines.
Hagia Sofia – Near the Basilica Cistern is the Hagia Sophia, one of the world’s most iconic architectural marvels. The Hagia Sophia embodies the rich history of both Christianity and Islam. It was constructed in 537 CE during the reign of the Byzantine Emperor Justinian and was the largest cathedral in the world for nearly a thousand years. After the Ottoman conquest of Constantinople in the 15th century, it was converted to a mosque. In 1935, under the secular Turkish Republic, it was transformed into a museum, only to be reconverted into a mosque again in 2020. Non-Muslims must enter through a separate entrance and can only visit the upper gallery. The gallery provided us excellent views to the ground floor, as well as interesting sites such as Christian mosaics, a marble door known as the ‘Heaven and Hell Gate’ and even 11th century graffiti. After viewing the upper gallery, we descended stairs to the southwest vestibule where we viewed a 10th century mosaic depicting emperors Justinian and Constantine presenting Hagia Sophia and Constantinople to Mary and the Christ child. The entry fee is approximately $25. Tickets can be purchased for about $36 online through sites such as Viator or Headout, allowing visitors to skip the lines.
Topkapi Palace – A short walk north from the Hagia Sophia will bring you to the Topkapi Palace. Built in the 15th century by Sultan Mehmed the Conqueror, the palace served as the imperial residence and administrative center for Ottoman sultans for nearly 400 years. The massive complex, with its gates, opulent halls, tiled walls, beautifully landscaped courtyards, fountains and intricate architecture, offers a glimpse into the lavish lifestyle of the Ottoman court. Make sure to visit the Harem, where the sultan’s family lived, and the Imperial Treasury, housing priceless artifacts such as jeweled weapons and the famous Topkapi Dagger. The palace also offers spectacular views of the Bosphorus and Golden Horn. Tickets are approximately $45 and can be purchased on site or online through sites such as Viator or Headout, allowing visitors to skip the lines. We purchased tickets through Headout, which required us to meet at an offsite café. Give yourself at least two to three hours to visit the palace complex.
Eminönü Neighborhood
Heading west from Topkapi Palace leads to the Eminönü neighborhood, a district along the Golden Horn brimming with cultural and architectural landmarks.
Sirkeci Train Station – The Sirkeki Train Station is the historic terminal of the famed Orient Express. Opened in 1890, the station blends neoclassical and Ottoman architectural styles, with its ornate façade, decorative tiles, and intricate detailing. Inside, visitors can explore the waiting hall adorned with vintage posters and historical artifacts that evoke the golden age of train travel. The adjacent Istanbul Railway Museum houses 300 historical items, including train parts, photographs, furniture, dining car pieces and more.
Galata Bridge – The Galata Bridge crosses the Golden Horn, connecting Eminönü and Karaköy to the north. Both locals and tourists come to the bridge to enjoy the panoramic vistas and try fresh seafood. While the bridge was first constructed in the 19th century, the current version was completed in 1994. The two level bridge bustles with activity. We first walked along the upper level that was packed with fishermen, and enjoyed the view toward the skylines along both sides of the Golden Horn. As it started to rain, we moved on to the covered lower level, which is lined with seafood restaurants offering views to Eminönü.
Bosphorus Cruises – Eminönü is a major departure point for Bosphorus boat tours. From here, visitors can board colorful boats and embark on a scenic cruise along the Bosphorus, offering views of both the European and Asian sides of the city. Passengers can admire landmarks such as the majestic Dolmabahçe Palace, the fortress of Rumeli Hisarı, and the picturesque Maiden’s Tower. Many cruises include opportunities for dining, where guests can try traditional Turkish cuisine. Cruise tickets can be purchased on site or through online tour sites such as Viator.
The Spice Bazaar – No trip to Istanbul is complete without getting lost in the labyrinthine alleys of its famous bazaars. The Spice Bazaar, also known as the Egyptian Bazaar (Mısır Çarşısı) is one of the city’s most vibrant and fragrant marketplaces. Located just south of the Galata Bridge, it has been a bustling hub of trade since the 17th century. It was originally built to support the upkeep of the nearby New Mosque, and its name derives from the historical trade of spices that came from Egypt. While walking the narrow alleys we were captivated by the colorful stalls overflowing with aromatic spices, dried fruits, nuts, teas, and variety of Turkish delicacies. Other items for sale include handmade goods, jewelry, and souvenirs.
Grand Bazaar – The famous Grand Bazaar is one of the world’s largest and oldest covered markets. Established in the 15th century during the reign of Sultan Mehmed the Conqueror, the bazaar reflects Istanbul’s historical role as a major trading hub between East and West. Today, the 75 acre lively bazaar has over 4,000 shops sprawled across 61 covered streets. Visitors can bargain for everything from traditional Turkish carpets and hand-painted ceramics to gold jewelry, spices, and textiles. After exhausting ourselves walking the many streets, we found a quaint courtyard with a café where we drank Turkish coffee while being entertained by numerous feral cats.
Galata District
On the north side of the Golden Horn, near Karaköy, is the Galata District. The area offers picturesque streets lined with cafes, boutiques, and art galleries, as well as the famous Galata Tower.
Galata Tower – The Galata Tower is one of Istanbul’s most iconic landmarks. The cylindrical shaped tower was built in 1348 by the Genoese for defensive purposes and later served as a watchtower for spotting fires. It rises nearly 220 feet and is adorned with a conical roof. Visitors can climb to the observation deck for panoramic views of the Golden Horn and the Sultanahmet skyline, or to enjoy the sunset.
Istiklal Street – Istiklal Street is a bustling pedestrian thoroughfare that stretches for a mile and is renowned for its vibrant atmosphere. The street is lined with an eclectic mix of shops, cafes, restaurants, and art galleries, and an iconic red tram that runs along the street. At night, İstiklal Street becomes a lively hub of nightlife, with numerous bars and clubs offering music, dance, and entertainment.
Culinary Delights of Istanbul
Both International and Turkish cuisine can be found throughout Istanbul, available in fine dining and casual establishments as well as from the many street vendors. Turkish cuisine includes a rich tapestry of flavors, blending the culinary traditions of the Ottoman Empire with influences from the Middle East, Mediterranean, and Central Asia. Classic dishes include kebabs, and small appetizers known as mezes, such as hummus, dolmas (stuffed grape leaves) and grilled eggplant.
Istanbul is also renowned for its seafood, especially along the Bosphorus, where fresh fish is grilled to perfection. A fun place to try seafood is along the lower level of the Galata Köprüsü bridge across the Golden Horn, where a variety of seafood restaurants are located, and one can watch the view and boats go by.
Street vendors are everywhere, and sell a variety of snacks such as dürüm (wraps), kumpir (stuffed baked potatoes), roasted chestnuts and grilled corn on the cob.
Traditional tea and coffeehouses are central to the city’s social life. Turkish coffee is renowned for its strong flavor and unique preparation method. Finely ground coffee beans are simmered in water, often with sugar until a thick froth forms. The coffee is unfiltered, leaving a layer of coffee grounds at the bottom of the cup. It’s typically served in small cups and accompanied by a piece of Turkish delight.
I have a sweet tooth, and enjoyed the numerous pastry shops displaying beautiful and colorful desserts and pastries. Visitors will enjoy a variety of baklavas, Turkish delight candy (known as lokum), and Sütlac (a rice pudding). Another type of dessert is kunefe, a cheese filled pastry topped with syrup and pistachios.
Getting Around Istanbul
Getting around Istanbul can be an adventure due to the city’s vast size and unique geography that spans both Europe and Asia. The public transportation system is extensive and efficient, offering several options for navigating the region. Metro lines,trams, and buses connect key neighborhoods and tourist sites, while ferries provide a scenic way to cross the Bosphorus, offering stunning views of the city’s skyline. The Marmaray tunnel also allows travelers to cross between continents via train. Taxis and ride-hailing apps like Uber and BiTaksi are widely available, though traffic can be heavy, especially during rush hours. Walking is a great option in central historic areas like Sultanahmet or Taksim, where many of the historical sites are within proximity to each other. For those wanting a traditional experience, the historic Tünel funicular connects Karaköy and Beyoğlu. With its mix of modern and historic transportation options, getting around Istanbul is both convenient and memorable.
To and From the Airport – Getting to and from Istanbul Airport by train has become a convenient option with the opening of the Istanbul Airport Metro line (M11). This line directly connects the airport with key parts of the city, allowing visitors to avoid taxis, buses and Istanbul’s notoriously heavy roadway traffic. The M11 includes major transfer hubs including Gayrettepe (transfer to the M2 to go to Taksim Square and the historic Fatih district). Upon leaving customs and baggage claim, make sure to follow the signs to Door 11 where signs lead to the Metro. Make sure to take the elevator rather than the escalators as it is much quicker and easier. The trip to Fatih takes about one hour. One caution – be prepared for other riders racing to grab a seat. We had placed ourselves with our luggage right by the platform edge expecting to find a seat. When the train doors opened, people behind us rushed ahead to grab a seat, leaving us standing the entire trip.