Nestled in the heart of the Lone Star State lies a city that pulsates with history, culture, charm, and a vibrant energy that’s distinctly Texan. Welcome to San Antonio, where the past meets the present in a harmonious blend of tradition and modernity. There’s no shortage of sights to explore in this vibrant Texan metropolis, from its iconic River Walk to its rich Spanish colonial heritage. Whether you’re a history buff, a foodie, or an outdoor enthusiast, San Antonio has something for everyone. I fell in love with this historic city while stationed at Fort Sam Houston during my old Army days. More recently, I spent a week in San Antonio when the city was near the direct path of the Total Annular Eclipse. While there, I explored some of the same sights I was familiar with, and discovered new invigorating places and experiences.
San Antonio was founded as a Spanish mission and colonial outpost in 1718, and later became the first chartered settlement in what is now present day Texas. Originally part of the Spanish empire, it became part of the Mexican Republic between 1821 and 1836, the independent country of Texas between 1836 and 1845, and finally part of the United States in 1845. The city has attracted many immigrants and cultures over the years, including Native Americans, Spanish, Mexicans, and Germans. Today, this modern metropolis of 2.6 million people hosts numerous military installations, is home to four Fortune 500 companies, is a major healthcare center, and is visited by over 20 million tourists each year.
Every April, Fiesta San Antonio commemorates the Battle of the Alamo, and the Battle of San Jacinto which led to Texas’ independence from Mexico in April 1836. The fiesta includes three major parades, including a boat parade along the San Antonio River, and festivals are held throughout the city. The Battle of Flowers, held the second Friday of Fiesta, is the oldest event and is organized entirely by women. Just prior to, and during Fiesta, homes and neighborhoods throughout San Antonio are adorned with colorful banners and flags. While my trip occurred just a couple weeks prior to the fiesta, I was able to witness the anticipated preparation happening throughout the city.
Culinary Delights
No visit to San Antonio is complete without indulging in its cuisine. From sizzling fajitas to savory Tex-Mex creations, the city offers a fusion of flavors influenced by its Mexican, Spanish, and German roots. One can sample authentic street tacos at iconic local joints or savor innovative culinary creations crafted by award-winning chefs. Wash it all down with a refreshing margarita or a cold craft beer brewed right in San Antonio.
Downtown Area Attractions
The heart of San Antonio is its generally compact downtown area, where tourists can explore the many sights including the famous Riverwalk, the Alamo, historic markets, cultural facilities and museums, and a wide variety of shops and restaurants.
Hemisfair – Hemisfair is the site of the 1968 World’s Fair (HemisFair ’68), which has since been transformed into a 50 acre mixed use site containing the convention center, hotel, a theater, parks, playgrounds, fountains, shops, restaurants, and a museum (Institute of Texas Cultures). A good place to start any visit to San Antonio, and get a lay of the land is at the Tower of the Americas, a 750 foot tall observation tower that was the theme structure of Hemisfair. The top of the tower includes a revolving restaurant and bar, and an observation deck providing panoramic views over downtown San Antonio and the surrounding region. The deck also provides displays of the history of San Antonio and Texas. The base of the tower includes a snack shop, a 4D theater ride known as The Skies Over Texas, and gift shop.
La Villita Historic Village – Across Alamo Street from Hemisfair is La Villita. Located on the south bank of the San Antonio River, La Villita (meaning little village) was the city’s first neighborhood housing Spanish soldiers stationed at the Mission San Antonio Valero (the Alamo). Over the years, the neighborhood evolved from primitive huts to stone, brick and adobe houses, and later Victorian and Texas vernacular limestone buildings. The neighborhood attracted European immigrants in the late 19th century before declining in the early 20th century. The village was restored as part of the River Walk development in the mid 20th century, and today is a thriving arts, culture and entertainment district housing restaurants, shops, galleries, artisans, and events held throughout the year. It is also listed on the National Register of Historic Places.
The River Walk – Meandering through the heart of downtown, the San Antonio River Walk is a picturesque oasis of winding waterways, lush greenery, arched stone bridges, and intimate cobblestone pathways, offering a respite from the bustling streets above. There is no other place like the Riverwalk, and it’s my favorite place in San Antonio. This popular promenade is lined with an eclectic array of shops, restaurants, bars, coffee shops and galleries. The River Walk offers endless opportunities for leisurely strolls, romantic boat rides, and al fresco dining. At night, the River Walk lights illuminate the night sky, casting a colorful glow over the tranquil waters below. During the holidays, the spectacular River Walk lighting ceremony includes millions of twinkling lights that transform the waterway into a winter wonderland. The River Walk has expanded over the years, is a great way to access numerous attractions throughout San Antonio, including the Alamo, La Villita, the Pearl District, the King William Historic District, the convention center, and the numerous missions south of downtown.
The Alamo – No visit to San Antonio would be complete without paying homage to the Alamo. Steeped in history and legend, this iconic mission-turned-fortress stands as a symbol of Texas’ struggle for independence from Mexico. The Alamo is to Texans what Washington D.C. is to Americans. The Battle of the Alamo took place from February 23 to March 6, 1836 between the Texian Army and Mexican forces. The outnumbered Texian force was ultimately defeated. With all of the Alamo defenders killed, they became seen as “martyrs” for the cause of Texas freedom. “Remember the Alamo” became a rallying cry in the Texian Army’s eventual success at defeating the Mexican army. Visitors can tour the church, Long Barrack museum, and gardens, and learn about the history of the buildings, the Texas Revolution, and the Battle of the Alamo. A current $400 million project known as the Alamo Plan includes restoration of the 300 year old church and Long Barrack, a delineation of the original battlefield, and a new state-of-the art Alamo Visitor Center and Museum scheduled for completion in 2027.
Brisco Western Art Museum – Located adjacent the River Walk, the Briscoe Western Art Museum holds nine galleries on three levels showcasing the art, history and culture of the American West. Visitors can view stunning paintings of western landscapes and history, western themed sculptures, collections of saddles and spurs, including Pancho Villa’s saddle, and an authentic Chuck Wagon.
San Fernando Cathedral – Located on the west side of the downtown area, San Fernando Cathedral is a historic masterpiece that stands as the oldest cathedral in Texas, and one of the oldest in the United States. The Cathedral faces the city’s main plaza and was originally completed in 1750 and enlarged in 1868 with Gothic Revival architecture. It is adorned with intricate stained glass windows, ornate spires and carved stone Stations of the Cross. During the evenings (Tuesday thru Sunday, 9pm), the cathedral holds a captivating light show, “San Antonio – The Saga,” which projects a mesmerizing visual narrative onto the cathedral’s façade, celebrating the city’s rich history and cultural heritage.
Spanish Governor’s Palace – The Spanish Governor’s Palace, just west of San Fernando Cathedral, was completed in 1749, as the residence and working office of the Captain of the Presidio San Antonio de Bexar. The presidio was used to protect the newly established Mission San Antonio de Valero (known as the Alamo). Later, the palace became the home of the Spanish governors who lived in San Antonio, and is one of the oldest residential buildings still standing in Texas. The one-story stucco structure surrounds a serene patio and courtyard.
Historic Market Square – A couple blocks west of the Spanish Governor’s Palace is historic Market Square, also known as El Mercado. Here, visitors can step into a world of vibrant colors, lively music, and mouthwatering cuisine within 3 blocks containing numerous markets and plazas. The largest Mexican market in the United States, this bustling cultural hub offers an array of artisanal crafts, traditional textiles, savory street food, fiestas and live entertainment. Visitors can dine while being serenaded with lively melodies by Mariachis. Adjacent the market is the Centro de Artes Gallery, a two level space dedicated to telling the story of the Latino experience in the U.S. with a focus on local and regional art, history and culture, showcasing Latino artists.
Attractions North of Downtown
To the north of downtown are some of San Antonio’s wealthiest and most attractive neighborhoods and suburbs, including Monte Vista, Olmos Park, Alamo Heights and Terrell Heights. The area is also home to large sprawling parks including Brackenridge Park (home of the San Antonio Zoo), Olson Basin Park, and a number of cultural facilities.
San Antonio Botanical Garden – The San Antonio Botanical Garden is a 38 acre oasis in the middle of the city, recognized for its horticultural displays, botanical diversity, education, conservation and experiences connecting people to the natural world. Some of the park’s highlights include the Water Saver garden, the contemporary looking, subterranean Conservatory, and the Rose Garden. The Texas Native Trail includes plants and wildflowers from the East Texas piney woods, Texas Hill Country and South Texas.
Japanese Tea Garden – Nestled within Brackenridge Park is the Japanese Tea Garden, created in a former limestone quarry. Visitors can escape the bustle of the city and find tranquility within a peaceful retreat of lush botanical gardens, a 60-foot cascading waterfall, stone arch bridges, an island, and tranquil ponds adorned with vibrant koi fish. Take a moment to relax and unwind in the shade of towering bamboo groves, or enjoy a traditional Japanese tea ceremony in the garden’s historic pagoda.
McNay Art Museum – The McNay Art Museum was the first modern art museum in Texas, and is housed within a Spanish Colonial Revival style mansion. The 23 acre grounds feature landscaped lawns, fountains, a Japanese inspired garden and fishpond. The museum focuses on 19th and 20th-century European and American art, with a collection of over 20,000 objects. Well known artists such as Pablo Picasso, Edward Hopper, Paul Gauguin, Henry Matisse, Georgia O’Keeffe, Diego Rivera are featured throughout the museum. During our visit, we experienced the temporary exhibit – Upward Mobility by de la Torre Brothers. This fascinating, futuristic, humorous and somewhat macabre exhibit focuses on excess consumption of capitalism. The central installation named The Mansion is a visual feast with dark undertones featuring an ornately decorated banquet table overflowing with handcrafted objects made from glass, doll parts and dyed resin and overhung by elaborate chandeliers.
Pearl District – The Pearl District located along the River Walk is one of San Antonio’s newest and most exciting destinations for food, entertainment and fun. It’s the place for living, working and playing in one spot. Located on the grounds of a former historic brewery, the district includes dozens of restaurants, shops, a concert venue, hotel, residences, and the third campus of the Culinary Institute of America. Outdoor plazas and park areas provide attractive spots for relaxing or participating in seasonal events. Stable Hall provides a state-of-the-art venue for live music performances. On weekends, the Pearl Farmers Market includes an array of vendors selling food, crafts, produce and more. Saturday mornings are dedicated to local farmers and ranchers, while Sunday mornings are centered around local artisans.
Fort Sam Houston Quadrangle and Museum – During my trip, I wanted to revisit Fort Sam Houston (now called JBSA-Fort Sam Houston), where I had taken my Army medical training years ago. A focal point within the attractive base, sometimes nicknamed the Country Club of the Army, is the Fort Sam Houston Museum. The museum is located within the historic stone built Quadrangle built in 1876, and tells the story of the base from its beginning in 1845 as the Post at San Antonio to the present day. It also highlights the relationship between the base and San Antonio with roots extending back to the Spanish presidio of 1718. Visitors must use the Walters Street gate to register for access to the base.
Attractions South of Downtown
The area south of downtown is known for its numerous historic missions that follow the San Antonio River, as well as the attractive King William Historic District and entertainment area.
King William Historic District – The King William Historic District is home to some of the most beautiful and historic homes in all of San Antonio. The district began in the 19th century as a desirable location for the city’s largely wealthy German families who built impressive homes designed in Greek Revival, Victorian and Italianate styles. By the 1920’s the families began to move away due to flooding issues, and the area became deteriorated by the 1940’s. In the 1960’s, restoration began on many of the homes, and the area became the city’s first designated historic district in 1968. Restoration continues to this day and is now one of the most sought after neighborhoods in San Antonio. Villa Finale Museum and Gardens includes a restored Italianate style home built in 1876. On the eastern edge of the district are numerous shops, coffee bars and restaurants that line St. Mary’s Street, South Presa Street, and South Alamo Street. We enjoyed Puerto Rican cuisine at Luna Rosa. The popular and massive Rosario’s Comidamex / Bar features Mexican cuisine, and the rooftop bar is a great spot for drinks during the sunset. Azuca features Latin American food, and I enjoyed classic Puerto Rican comfort food – Mofongo (made of mashed plantains), along with a hefty bowl of Tortilla soup.
Blue Star Arts Complex –– The Blue Star Arts Complex is located just south of the King William Historic District along the River Walk. The 160,000-square-foot complex includes a collection of studios, art galleries, retailers, bars, and eateries, including the Blue Star Brewing Company. Every First Friday, the monthly nighttime street festival is a great opportunity for unique art finds. On Second Saturday, visitors can meet the artists at local galleries. Head to Garcia Art Glass, Inc. for exciting glass-blowing demonstrations and shop the colorful gallery.
San Antonio Missions National Historic Park – A must-see attraction in San Antonio is the San Antonio Missions Historic Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site comprising four historic missions dating from as early as the late 17th century scattered along the San Antonio River. Visitors can step back in time as they explore the preserved grounds of Mission Concepción, Mission San José, Mission San Juan, and Mission Espada, each offering a fascinating glimpse into the region’s storied past. From beautifully restored church interiors to ancient aqueducts and irrigation systems, these architectural marvels provide a window into the daily lives of the indigenous peoples and Spanish missionaries who once called this land home.
