I made my first trip to Albania while staying in Corfu, Greece with friends in 2024, allowing me to check another country off my list. But I quickly learned that Albania is much more than just checking off a list. The southern region of Albania has unspoiled beaches, glittering turquoise water, breathtaking mountain landscapes, historic and attractive towns and villages, and a rich cultural heritage. Our group of five spent a day visiting some of the most popular sights in the coastal area of southern Albania.
Albania is a small country on the Balkan Peninsula, bordered by Montenegro, Kosovo, North Macedonia, and Greece. It has seen a growing tourism industry in recent years, primarily from across Europe, but with still relatively few American tourists. Albania’s history goes back to the ancient Illyrians, a people who lived in the region well before it was brought under the control of the Roman Empire. Over the centuries, Albania has been shaped by Byzantine, Ottoman, and communist influences, each leaving a visible mark on its culture, architecture, and society.
During the turbulent 20th century, Albania had one of the strictest communist regimes in Eastern Europe. In the early 1990’s, under Enver Hoxha, Albania began a dramatic transformation, emerging from isolation. Ever since, the country has been steadily modernizing and opening its doors to tourism, democracy, and market reforms. Today, Albania is a NATO member and an official candidate for European Union membership. The country is balancing rapid development with a deep reverence for its past—a place where ancient castles stand watch over modern cities, and where traditional hospitality remains a major part of daily life.
Our ferry ride from Corfu to the port city of Sarandë took about an hour. As we approached the city, I was surprised by its size, much larger than I had anticipated. We were greeted by a sweeping panorama consisting of modern pastel colored mid-rise buildings fronting the clear waters of the harbor, promenade and local beach. More buildings climbed the surrounding hills which rose dramatically over the city.
Once we were off the boat, we found our van driver that we had pre-arranged. From there, we headed to several sites before our afternoon return to Sarandë.
Historic Gjirokastër
From Sarandë we headed to our first stop, the historic town of Gjirokaster, known as the “City of Stone”. Gjirokastër is a UNESCO World Heritage Site known for its striking stone architecture and Ottoman-era ambiance. Gjirokastër’s history dates back to at least the 12th century. It flourished under Ottoman rule beginning in the 15th century. During this period conversions to Islam and an influx of Muslim converts from the surrounding countryside made Gjirokastër transition from being an overwhelmingly Christian city in the 16th century into one with a large Muslim population by the early 19th century.
The drive took an hour, along a winding road through striking and diverse landscapes. As the road climbed steadily into the foothills, we were offered occasional glimpses back at Sarandë and the blue Mediterranean. We passed olive groves, citrus orchards, and small stone-built villages before climbing through dramatic mountain passes, offering sweeping views of deep valleys below. We made our way into the Drino Valley, known for its traditional Albanian villages such as Gjirokastër, as well as numerous deserted monasteries and churches.
As we approached the historic heart of Gjirokastër, we spotted the Ottoman-era clay rooftops and imposing castle standing guard over the town and surrounding valley. We walked through the well preserved old town, along steep cobbled streets surrounded by buildings with whitewashed facades and slate-roofs. It felt like we were stepping back in time as we navigated the winding alleyways lined with traditional homes, artisan shops, and family-run eateries. Grand tower houses (known as kullë) built by wealthy landowners were scattered throughout the town. We ate lunch at one of the many outdoor cafes serving traditional Albanian food, feasting on tavë kosi, a casserole of lamb baked with yoghurt, eggs and rice. During our time here, we visited some of Gjirokastër’s best attractions noted below.
Skenduli House – Skenduli House is an original family home that is more than 300 years old, that provides an insight into what life was like for a wealthy family during the Ottoman period. The house has 12 rooms, nine fireplaces, six bathrooms, and four Hamam Turkish baths. The house has been owned by the same family for generation, and the family provides tours and stories of its history. A highlight is the room used for wedding ceremonies, which contains beautiful stained glass windows, carved wooden ceilings and a fireplace decorated with pomegranates symbolizing fertility.
Zekate House – Zekate House is a historical townhouse and is a good example of a traditional tower house. The house was built in 1812, and it is “one of the greatest examples of Gjirokaster architecture in the Ottoman style”. These types of homes were owned by the wealthy, including government officials and merchants.
Ethnographic Museum – The Ethnographic Museum provides an insight into the traditional lifestyle of a wealthy local family. The museum’s building is at the same location where the former dictator Enver Hoxha’s childhood home was. The original building was destroyed by a fire and replaced with the current structure. The museum displays include historic artifacts, household items, folk costumes, clothing and kitchenware.
Old Bazaar – The Old Bazaar of Gjirokaster is the traditional marketplace originally built in the Middle Ages. It is located in the old city at the intersection of Rruga Gjin Zeneisi and Rruga Gjin Bue Shpata, a steep road that leads toward the fortress. The bazaar includes a variety of craft shops, souvenir shops and coffee houses. Visitors can purchase handmade wooden pieces, handwoven rugs and delicate lace items.
Gjirokastër Fortress – Above the old city sits Gjirokastër Fortress, a hilltop castle which is one of the largest in the Balkans. We hiked up a cobblestone drive to the top of the hill, and along the way, I noticed an old woman dressed in black sitting on the side of the road wrapping yarn. I tried to discreetly photograph her while she wasn’t looking, but she turned and looked straight at me with a stern glare just as I took the photo. I joked to my friends that I may have had a curse put on me. Once at the top, we were offered sweeping views of the surrounding mountains and town. The castle was originally built in the 12th century by the local Byzantine government. During the Ottoman empire, it was renovated and additions were made. From 1930 onward, it was mainly used as a prison for people who were resistant to the government.
Museum of Weapons – Inside the castle walls is the Museum of Weapons which was originally a prison. The former King Zog of Albania constructed the prison in 1932. During the second world war, the prison was used by the Italian and German forces. After the war, the communist regime used the prison to hold political prisoners. The Museum of Weapons displays arms used during the Albanian Independence struggle in 1912 and from the struggle against the Italian and German occupations from 1939 to 1944.
Cold War Tunnel – Beneath the fortess is a gigantic bunker known as the Cold War Tunnel. It was built by the former communist dictator of Albania, Enver Hoxha. He was apparently paranoid about a foreign invasion or a nuclear attack, and constructed 173,000 bunkers throughout the country. Secretly constructed during the 1960s, the Cold War Tunnel wasn’t discovered by locals until the 1990s. The tunnel is nearly a half mile long and has 59 rooms that could hold up to 300 people if needed. The tunnel included rooms for government ministries, interrogators, party elites, power generation, water storage, sleeping, decontamination and air filtration.
Blue Eye Natural Spring
We traveled another 45 minutes (20 miles south of Gjirokastër) to a popular attraction known as Blue Eye Natural Spring (Syri i Kaltër), one of Albania’s most alluring natural wonders. Blue Eye is a freshwater spring known for its clear, deep blue water that bubbles up to the surface from an underwater cave more than 150 feet deep. It’s also the source of the Bistrica River which flows to the Ionian Sea. The oval shaped natural spring displays shades of aqua and dark blue, resembling a giant eye when looking at it from above.
From the entrance, we had to walk along a one mile trail which took about 20 minutes, without much shade. The trail is slightly hilly but not strenuous and provides scenery worth seeing. For those who prefer to stay out of the sun, or don’t wish to walk, there is a shuttle which charges a nominal fee.
Blue Eye is surrounded by dense forest and feels like a hidden oasis. A good place to view it is from the observation deck. Walking trails also wind through the forest providing good views. Seeing the full colors of the ‘eye’ is best on clear sunny days, and mid-day, but these are also the busiest times.
Swimming is not permitted anywhere within the nature park, and we were saddened to see some people disobeying the rules. The prohibition helps to protect the biodiversity and fragile ecosystem while also ensuring that everyone has a unobstructed view. The park also includes a small riverside café, restrooms and souvenir shops.
The Coastal City of Sarandë
We returned to Sarandë and had just enough time to explore some of the city’s sights before getting back on the ferry to Corfu.
Sarandë is situated along the Albanian Riviera overlooking the Ionian Sea and is known for its turquoise waters, white pebble beaches, sunny weather and warm hospitality. The city offers a pleasant mix of Mediterranean charm, historical interest, and beachside tranquility. It serves as an ideal gateway for day trips along the southern Albanian coast, with destinations such as Albanian Riviera beaches, Ksamil and its idyllic islands, Butrint National Park, the Blue Eye natural spring, and the scenic drive through the Llogara Pass.
The city’s history stretches back thousands of years, shaped by its strategic location along the Ionian Sea. Originally known as Onchesmos, it served as an important port for ancient Epirus and later became part of the Roman and Byzantine Empires. The city’s modern name derives from the Monastery of the Forty Saints (“Agioi Saranda” in Greek), built on a nearby hill in the early Christian period. Throughout the centuries, Sarandë fell under the control of Venetians, Ottomans, and briefly Italians during World War II, each leaving their mark on its culture and architecture.
Sarandë Promenade and Beachfront – The heart of Sarandë is its lively waterfront promenade, a long palm-lined walkway popular both day and night. The promenade, known as Hasan Tahsini Boulevard, is lined with dozens of outdoor cafés, seafood restaurants, bars, shops and ice cream parlors. We enjoyed drinks at Limani Restaurant while watching the view of the turquoise sea. The city’s main beach sits right alongside the promenade, offering easy access for a quick dip or a lazy day in the sun.
Sarandë Market – Above the promenade on Rruga Jonianet is the bustling Sarandë Market. Here, visitors can find fresh produce, fragrant herbs, local honey, bottles of homemade raki (traditional fruit brandy), and handicrafts from across the region.
Museum of Traditions – The Museum of Traditions offers a fascinating collection of historic artifacts, clothing, tools, and household items. The museum is housed in a traditional-style building, giving visitors a glimpse into the architecture and lifestyle of the past.
Museum of Archaeology – Near the Museum of Traditions is the Museum of Archaeology. It’s collection highlights Sarandë’s role as an important coastal settlement, with exhibits including ancient pottery, tools, coins, and decorative items unearthed from local archaeological sites such as Butrint. Displays trace the area’s Greek, Roman, Byzantine, and Ottoman influences, describing how centuries of trade, conquest, and cultural exchange shaped the city.
Synagogue Complex – At the intersection of Rruga Flamurit and Rruga Skënderbeu are the ruins of a 5th-century synagogue. Once a center of Jewish life, the site later became a Christian basilica. Visitors can tour the remaining fragments, mosaic floors and partially restored walls that hint at the city’s multicultural heritage.
Lekursi Castle – Perched on a hill overlooking the Ionian Sea and the city of Sarandë, the Lekursi Castle offers panoramic views making it one of the area’s most popular attractions. The castle was originally built in the 16th century by the Ottomans to control the surrounding region and monitor sea routes. We explored the castle’s weathered stone walls and took in the sweeping views. A restaurant now occupies part of the castle, making it an ideal spot to enjoy a meal or drink while watching the sunset. The short drive or hike up to the castle is well worth the effort for the views alone.
Butrint National Park
While we didn’t have a chance to visit it, Butrint National Park is another popular attraction in southern Albania located about nine miles south of Sarandë. The park is most notable as the site of the archaeological ruins dating from over 2,500 years. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the ruins are of an ancient city that was once a Greek colony, later a Roman city, and eventually part of the Byzantine and Venetian empires. The city is one of the most important archaeological sites in Albania. Originally a settlement of the Greek tribe of the Chaonians, Butrint later became part of the state of Epirus, and later a Roman outpost and a Byzantine settlement. It was abandoned during the Middle Ages after a major earthquake flooded most of the city. The ruins include a late-antique baptistry, a great basilica, intricate mosaic floors, a Roman theater and a Venetian fortress. Another attraction is the very narrow Lion Gate, one of the six entrances to the city from the 4th century BC. The inscriptions shows a lion that is about to eat a bull. The lion symbolizes the inhabitants of the city and the bull as their enemies. The ancient city is surrounded by lush wetlands, the Vivari Channel and Lake Butrint.
Albanian Food
Albanian food is heavy on comfort, combining Mediterranean and Balkan influences, and known for its use of fresh, locally sourced ingredients. Traditional dishes include grilled meats, seasonal vegetables, and hearty baked goods. One popular dish is byrek, a savory pastry filled with cheese, spinach, or meat. I tried tavë kosi, a delicious baked dish of lamb with yogurt, eggs and rice. Along the coast, seafood is abundant and typically served grilled or marinated with olive oil, lemon, and herbs. Meals are often accompanied by homemade bread, fresh salads, and raki, a fruit brandy that’s a staple at Albanian gatherings.
Albanian desserts include baklava, made with flaky layers of phyllo dough, chopped nuts, and syrup or honey; shëndetlie, a moist walnut cake soaked in sweet syrup; and kabuni, a rice pudding cooked with butter, sugar, cinnamon, and raisins. Desserts are often enjoyed with strong Albanian coffee.
Albanian Souvenirs
A variety of unique souvenirs can be purchased in Albania, reflecting its history, culture, and craftsmanship. Traditional handwoven textiles such as kilim rugs and embroidered tablecloths are popular for their intricate patterns and bright colors, often made in towns like Gjirokastër. Markets and artisan shops often sell handcrafted silver jewelry. Popular food items include olive oil and local honey as well as bottles of raki (the traditional fruit brandy) or Albanian wines. Other popular items include Byzantine-style icons or ceramic pottery. A distinct Albanian product is the geleshe (traditional white felt hats).
Getting there
Getting from Corfu, Greece to Sarandë is an easy and scenic journey thanks to regular ferry connections across the Ionian Sea. Ferries depart from Corfu Town’s main port and arrive at Sarandë’s harbor in as little as 30 minutes on high-speed vessels, or about 70–90 minutes on standard ferries. Multiple operators run daily services, especially in the summer months. Travelers should bring their passport, as they will pass through immigration when leaving Greece and entering Albania. Ferries and tours of Albania from Corfu can also be arranged through Viator.
Travelers coming from within Albania can take a scenic bus ride from Tirana or Vlorë, with journeys winding along the dramatic Albanian Riviera or through the inland mountains. Those flying internationally often arrive at Corfu International Airport or Tirana International Airport before continuing to Sarandë by ferry, bus or car.
