Exploring Manila, the Pearl of the Orient

Manila is a major international city boasting top tier hotels, restaurants, shopping, attractions, history, museums and more.

2024 is the year for me revisiting places that have meant a lot to me. I hadn’t been to the Philippines, the birthplace of my father, in over twenty years. Manila is where my father attended medical school before immigrating to America, where he met my mother and went on to become a well known and liked surgeon in the Cincinnati area.

On this trip, I traveled by a cruise ship that began in Bangkok, with ports in Vietnam, Malaysia, Brunei, four ports in the Philippines, ending in Taiwan. Upon our arrival in Manila at 6am, we were greeted by a colorfully costumed band playing on the dock. The expanding city skyline loomed in the background.

Metro Manila (the city and its many suburbs) sprawls for miles, with a population of over 13 million. It is the most densely populated city in the world, and a city full of contrasts. Old and new; chaotic crowded streets and attractive, modern, orderly boulevards; rundown buildings and endless gleaming new glass skyscrapers; ultra wealthy neighborhoods and poverty stricken slums; dull concrete buildings and colorful, extravagant jeepneys; modern trains and motorized tricycles.

First time visitors to Manila may think they have accidentally landed in Latin America rather than Asia, with its Catholic churches and many other buildings in a Spanish architectural style, and most street names, neighborhoods and signs displaying Spanish names. This is due to the Philippines being a Spanish colony for 300 years. It has also been shaped by American influences, since it was a colony of the United States from 1898 through 1946, after Spain was defeated in the Spanish-American War.

Nicknamed the Pearl of the Orient, Manila has unfortunately lost much of its former beauty and grandeur. The city’s name is derived from the native word Maynilà, which translates to the indigo plant that heavily grew in the area. The city dates to as early as 900 AD when it was settled by Malays who traded with the Chinese. By the 13^th century it consisted of a fortified Muslim settlement and trading quarter. From 1571 to 1898, Manila was the seat of the Spanish colonial government, situated within the fortified walls of Old Manila (known as Intramuros). For two centuries, Manila was part of the Manila-Acapulco galleon trade, used to trade goods between Asia, Europe, Africa and Hispanic America. During this period, it became a wealthy and diverse city populated by people from throughout the world.  During the American period, President William Howard Taft hired famous architect Daniel Hudson Burnham to create an urban plan for the city, laying out grand boulevards, parks, government buildings, and a public waterfront.

The grandeur of the city came to an end during World War II. Manila was one of the most heavily destroyed cities, largely a result of the Battle of Manila between US and Japanese forces, during which 100,000 Filipino civilians were killed. The city was rebuilt following the war, but most of Burnham’s design was not implemented. The more recent development includes older decrepit buildings being torn down and replaced by modern shopping malls and glass skyscrapers. Today, one has to peel the layers to see and appreciate what Manila has to offer.

Historic Intramuros

The most historic part of Manila lies within a stone walled area called Intramuros, located near Manila Bay and the Pasig River. Intramuros was the original 16^th century Spanish fortified city of Manila which served as the seat of government of the Philippines. Five gates lead to Intramuros, and within the walls are several public plazas, churches and a cathedral, numerous monuments and restored buildings housing commercial uses, universities and colleges. Many of the colonial and uniquely Filipino style buildings were destroyed during World War II, but have since been rebuilt. A moat originally surrounded Intramuros, but it was redeveloped as a golf course during the American colonial period.

Fort Santiago – Within Intramuros is Fort Santiago, a 16^th century stone citadel built by Spanish navigator and governor Miguel López de Legazpi for the newly established colonial city of Manila. The fort was used to protect the city from various invaders including Chinese pirates. Over the years, the triangular shaped fort has been under the control of Spain, England, the U.S. and Japan, and was heavily damaged during World War II. The remains are preserved as a museum where visitors can walk among the bastions, prison dungeons, plazas, a shrine to Jose Rizal (the country’s national hero) and a replica of his ancestral home.

Manila Cathedral – The Manila Cathedral is a Roman Catholic minor basilica and the cathedral church of the Archdiocese of Manila. The original cathedral was built in 1571, but has been destroyed and rebuilt several times. The current structure dates to 1958 and was built after the previous version was destroyed in World War II.

Casa Manila – Casa Manila is a museum depicting the lifestyle of an affluent Filipino family during the late Spanish colonial period. The stone and wood structure is the replica of a similar home that was built in 1850. Its interior décor includes late 19^th century furniture and furnishings sourced from Europe and China. Visitors will enter the home through a passageway leading to a courtyard which was used to cool the rooms of the home.

San Augustin Church – San Augustin Church was completed in 1607, and is the only building within Intramuros that survived the destruction from World War II. Prior to that, it had also survived numerous earthquakes. It is designed in a Spanish-Mexican baroque style similar to temples built by the Augustinians in Mexico, and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It has been named the most beautiful building in the Philippines, and it rivals some of the most beautiful cathedrals found throughout Europe. The murals painted on the ceiling and walls were made by Italian artists, and 14^th century chandeliers hang from the ceiling. The church’s many hallways and rooms contain Spanish era artifacts, paintings, statues, and ceremonial items. Spanish conquistador Miguel López de Legazpi, who conquered the Philippines in the 16^th century, is buried within the church.

Just north of Intramuros, across the Pasig River, is Binondo, which has the oldest Chinatown in the world. It was established by the Spaniards in 1594 as a settlement for Catholic Chinese immigrants. Binondo is also home to Binondo Church which features a 16^th century bell tower.

Rizal Park and Nearby Attractions

Just south of Intramuros is Rizal Park (also known as Luneta Park), a sprawling 140 acre public green space in the heart of Manila, popular with families and visitors. The park includes open lawns, ornamental gardens (including both a Japanese and Chinese garden), fountains and monuments. Near the Manila Bay, the Jose Rizal Monument, guarded by sentries, pays homage to the country’s national hero who was executed by the Spanish colonial authorities at the same spot. At the eastern side of the park is a statue of Lapu-Lapu, a 16^th century national hero famous for slaying the Portuguese explorer Ferdinand Magellan. Being the Philippines “central park”, it regularly hosts concerts, theatrical productions and many other events.

Rizal Park is home to some of the country’s best museums, including the National Museum. The museum is comprised of multiple buildings along the periphery of the park. The National Art Gallery showcases visual artworks including Filipino artists, while the Museum of the Filipino People houses important historical artifacts. The museum also includes the Museum of Natural History, and a Planetarium.

Nearby, situated along Manila Bay, is the famous five star Manila Hotel, one of the most important landmarks in the city. It was designed as part of the Burnham plan and opened in 1912, and has since hosted prominent guests, celebrities, entertainers and world leaders. During World War II, the penthouse was the official residence of General Douglas MacArthur. Today, visitors can marvel at its beautiful lobby lined with Doric columns, a marble floor, and chandeliers made of brass, crystal and seashells. The furniture is carved of Philippine mahogany which is used throughout the hotel. The lobby includes a small MacArthur museum which includes artifacts and photographs from his days in Manila.

Modern Makati

Metro Manila includes numerous modern suburbs built of highrise office buildings, condominiums, hotels, malls and upscale residential neighborhoods. The most prominent is Makati, located a few miles southeast of Rizal Park. Makati, a separate city, is the financial center of the Philippines, with numerous corporations, embassies and some of the country’s wealthiest residents. A large attractive park, known as Ayala Triangle, is formed by Ayala Avenue, Makati Avenue and Paseo de Roxas. Across Ayala Avenue are several mammoth multi-level upscale malls, including Greenbelt Shopping Mall, Ayala Center, and Glorietta Mall.

Ayala Museum – A must see site in Makati is the Ayala Museum housed in a contemporary six story building made of granite, steel and glass. It was originally envisioned by Philippine abstract painter Fernando Zobel de Ayala y Montojo. It includes the Philippine artifacts and archaeology, fine arts, a collection of gold objects, and the Filipinas Heritage Library. One of the best exhibits is the Diorama Experience, which includes sixty handcrafted dioramas highlighting events and themes from prehistoric times to the modern era.

Bonifacio Global City

A recently developed and very popular area, known as Bonifacio Global City (BGC), is located east of Makati in the city of Taguig. Built on a former military base, Bonifacio is designed in a grid pattern with an attractive, heavily landscaped retail promenade (known as Bonifacio High Street) that follows 29^th Street through the center of the city. BGC is home to the Philippine Stock Exchange, high end hotels, multiple shopping malls, and a thriving entertainment and dining scene. The Bonifacio Art Foundation Inc. has regular programs and events throughout BGC, including the BGC Arts Center’s Art Mart (a monthly weekend-long market for local artists),  musical theater workshops, and the the BGC Public Art program.  The Mind Museum has over interactive 250 science exhibits, as well as a planetarium and botanical garden.

Manila American Cemetery – A highlight of the Bonifacio area is the Manila American Cemetery, the largest of all American overseas military cemeteries. This beautiful 152 acre cemetery is located on a plateau offering spectacular views to BGC and beyond. The cemetery has over 17,000 graves of World War II soldiers and personnel from the US, the Philippines and other allied nations. The marble headstones are aligned in eleven plots forming a circular pattern, set among a wide variety of tropical trees and shrubbery. The cemetery also has a large memorial that includes 25 mosaic maps recalling the actions of the US Armed Forces in the Pacific, China and India. The floors are carved with seals of the American states and territories. A visitors’ center tells the story of the brutal conditions and combat that occurred in the Pacific Theater. A chapel stands at the center of the burial grounds, which includes a blue-glass mosaic depicting a Madonna offering flowers to the dead.

Taal Volcano / Tagaytay

About two hours south of Manila, Taal Volcano and the Tagaytay area is a popular day trip for both locals and tourists. The Tagaytay area offers cooler temperatures and views of Taal Volcano. It is known as an island in a lake, on an island in a lake on an island. Taal Volcano is one the most active volcanos in the Philippines with 33 historical eruptions. I visited Tagaytay with relatives on one of my trips, and was amazed by the breathtaking scenery. There are a number of restaurants and hotels in Tagaytay that overlook the lake. Day trips can be arranged through various tour operators such as Get Your Guide or Viator. Visitors can also go trekking on the volcano itself. Make sure to wear a hat and lots of sunscreen. You can book a trekking tour to Taal Volcano from Manila through Klook.

Corregidor Island

Corregidor Island, located off the entrance to Manila Bay about 30 miles from the mainland, was one of the country’s last military bastions used to defend Manila from Japanese attacks during the World War II. The island was heavily bombarded during the war, and the ruins remain today, serving as a memorial to American, Filipino and Japanese soldiers who lost their lives.

A highlight of the island is the Malinta Tunnel which comprises a 830 foot long main tunnel with 24 separate lateral tunnels. During World War II, the tunnels initially served as a bomb-proof storage facility and were later equipped as a 1,000 bed hospital. During the Battle of Corregidor, a portion of the tunnel served as the headquarters of General Douglas MacArthur. The tunnel also served as the seat of the Philippine government where Manuel Quezon and Sergio Osmeña took their oaths of office as President and Vice President. Visitors can attend a light-and-sound presentation displaying various events that occurred, such as the evacuation of President Quezon and General MacArthur.

The Pacific War Memorial stands as a reminder of World War II, and includes war artillery and memorabilia. The Filipino Heroes Memorial includes an art gallery. Japanese Garden of Peace serves as a graveyard for the Japanese fallen.

Visitors can take guided tram tours around the island, seeing the remnants of former military barracks, the memorial, and the tunnel. Visitors can also enjoy the nature and peaceful setting of the island. Swimming at South Beach, kayaking, hiking and biking are popular activities. Ferries leave Manila Bay for Corregidor Island on a scheduled basis, or tours can be arranged through Viator.

Food and Drink

Manila is full of restaurants of all budget ranges serving both local and international fare. Street food can also be found throughout the city. Filipino cuisine has finally received long-overdue international attention. It is composed of foods of more than a hundred distinct ethnolinguistic groups found throughout the archipelago. It also uniquely draws inspiration from several outside influences, including Spanish, Chinese, Indian and Western. The Philippines was a melting pot of cultures prior to Spanish rule, due to Chinese, Indian and Malay trade routes. During the Spanish period, there were Mexican influences due to the Galleon trade route between Acapulco and Manila. American culture has also left its mark, with numerous American restaurant chains, dozens of Starbucks stores and Filipino and American fast food outlets. Filipino cuisine is generally distinguished by its bold combination of sweet, sour and salty flavors. Vinegar, soy sauce and garlic are common ingredients, and are used in dishes such as Adobo. Filipinos eat three main meals a day, including breakfast, lunch and dinner, and an afternoon snack known as meriénda, which usually includes pastries such as pandesal or ensaymada.

Popular savory dishes include lechon (slow roasted suckling pig), pancit (a stir fried noodle dish), Adobo (chicken or pork marinated in garlic and vinegar), seafood, chicken curry, empanadas, mechado (a beef stew), and menudo (pork and liver stew). Rice is almost always served with every meal. Breakfast usually includes garlic rice, fried eggs, and local sausage, such as Tocino.

Desserts include various types of gelatinous or steamed rice cakes, turon (bananas fried within eggroll wrapper), Halo-Halo (meaning mixed, it’s a concoction of ice cream, crushed ice, evaporated milk, fruits, jam or flan, and sweet beans), casava cake, leche flan, and buko pie (coconut pie). Ube (a purple yam) is also used in many desserts, such as cakes and pies.

Popular drinks include cold fruit drinks and shakes, coconut juice, kalamansi juice, coffee and tea. Tsololate is a Filipino type of hot chocolate, often served during meriénda. Alcoholic drinks include Lambanog (coconut wine), Tapuy (rice wine), Tanduay rum, and San Miguel beer.

A popular Filipino fast food chain, Jollibee, is known for its fried chicken, yumburgers and unique spaghetti made with ketchup and hot dogs. It can be found throughout the Philippines and other countries including the US.

Getting There and Around

Most visitors will arrive to Manila through Ninoy Aquino International Airport, located south of the city. There are a number of transportation options from the airport, including taxi, ride hailing, bus and jeepneys.

It cannot be stressed enough how congested the streets are in many parts of Manila. First time visitors will be amazed by the number of cars, motorbikes, jeepneys and buses all competing for the same space. The City has tried to alleviate the congestion by building multi-level freeways and rapid transit lines. It is important to anticipate travel times when getting around. I recommend using google maps ahead of time, to route your trip and travel time. 

There are a number of options for getting around Manila. I recommend using Grab. It is the safest and most convenient method. Regular taxis are less reliable and safe, and are known for being used to commit scams.

First time visitors will be curious about the colorful mini-bus type vehicles traveling throughout the city, known as jeepneys. Jeepneys are an iconic part of Philippine culture, and they are the most common form of public transportation in Manila. They were originally constructed by repurposing leftover US military jeeps from World War II. Passengers enter through a rear open door and pay the driver a small fee. Passengers can get picked up or dropped off anywhere along any of the hundreds of fixed routes. They are a cheap way of commuting, and there is a mobile app from sakay.ph that can help you navigate Manila’s often confusing public transportation system.

Manila also has an extensive and somewhat confusing public transit system that collectively has two light rail lines (LRT), two rapid transit rail lines (known as MRT), the Philippine National Railways commuter line, and the Pasig River ferry line. The trains can be extremely crowded, especially during rush hour, and users should beware of pickpockets. A 22 mile long north-south subway is currently under construction, and will connect directly to the Ninoy Aquino International Airport. Also, the North-South Commuter railway is under construction. When finished, the 91 mile long line will run from Clark City in the north to Laguna in the south. In addition, there are buses that run everywhere throughout the metropolitan area, including Bus Rapid Transit lines that use dedicated bus lanes.

Finally, tours can be arranged through excursion companies such as Viator, which offers many different types of tours and itineraries throughout Manila.

When to Go

Manila has a tropical climate. December to May is the dry season in the Philippines, but tourism hits its height between January and April. Temperatures generally range from the upper 70s° (F), to the mid-90s. The drier air during this period means it’s the best time to explore both Manila and the rest of the country.