On a recent trip to New England, I made an overnight stop in New York’s Hudson River Valley, on my way back to D.C. This beautiful part of the state offers a diversity of things to do. It is known for its scenic Catskill Mountain range, historic Gilded Age mansions and estates, winding country roads, orchards and vineyards, and quaint, charming villages and towns. In this region, famous families such as the Rockefellers, Vanderbilts, Roosevelts and others built their magnificent homes. The area’s natural beauty also attracted many artists, writers and naturalists over the years, and their creations can be seen to this day. You can also stroll quiet tree-lined streets and upscale and quirky commercial districts of historic towns such as Catskill, Hudson, Rhinebeck, Kingston and Woodstock.
The Hudson River Historic District is one of the largest historic districts in the country, comprising 32 square miles on the east side of the Hudson River, and more than 40 riverfront estates. Examples include the Vanderbilt mansion, the Wilderstein estate, and the home of President Franklin Delano Roosevelt. There is a lot to see and explore in this beautiful region of New York, and unfortunately, we only had time to visit a few of the places over two days.
Woodstock
We stopped for a moment in famous Woodstock, located on the west side of the Hudson River in Ulster County. Woodstock has a history as an artist colony. It hosted numerous Hudson River School painters in the late 19th century and became a center of the Arts and Crafts Movement in the early 20th century. Woodstock is probably most famous for the massive Woodstock music festival held in 1969 that attracted 460,000 attendees and was billed as three days of peace and music. An interesting note is that while the festival was originally planned to be held in the town of Woodstock, it was actually held forty miles away on a dairy farm near Bethel owned by Max Yasgur.
Woodstock’s commercial district is centered on Tinker Street, lined with dozens of restaurants, shops, galleries and boutiques. Many cater to the crunchy crowd, with numerous vegan restaurants and coffee shops. You’ll see loads of tie dye shirts, crochet style hats and blankets, incense, and retro hippie art within the many shops. We stopped at the flea market, which is held on weekends behind the public parking lot.
Opus 40 Sculpture Park – An outdoor landscape / sculpture park, known as Opus 40, is located ten minutes east of town. It has nearly seven acres of earthwork sculpture created by artist Harvey Fite, over a 37 year period.
Levon Helm Studio – The Levon Helm Studio was created by deceased musician Levon Helm (of The Band, and Midnight Rambles), who settled in Woodstock in the early 70s. The recording studio has been used by numerous bands and soloists over the years. The studio welcomes artists for intimate concerts, recording sessions, rehearsals, writing retreats and private events. Here, people can catch live music acts inside a venue made from a former barn.
Rhinebeck
Upscale and historic Rhinebeck is a cultural mecca for the Hudson Valley, known for its galleries, boutiques, bookstores, theaters, performing arts, historic homes and mix of Victorian, Colonial and Tudor style architecture. Historic preservation is an important element of local pride in Rhinebeck. Country Living Magazine called it one of the Ten Most Charming Small Towns in America. The quaint downtown is centered at the intersection of Mill Street and West Market Street, and offers great dining, shopping, entertainment and other services. These features have made Rhinebeck a popular destination for day-trippers and transplants from New York City, as well as an increasingly sought after retirement destination.
The area was originally inhabited by the Sepasco tribe of Native Americans. The Dutch, who arrived in 1686, were the first Europeans to settle, purchasing land from the Sepasco for farming. Once the Kings Highway was built in the early 18th century, a village formed for trade, growing over the years and later becoming a center for woodworking. Later, the town became known as the Violet Capital of the World. The flower was considered very fashionable during the Gilded Age, and Rhinebeck’s growers and smaller producers supplied about 25 percent of the nation’s violets.
Events in Rhinebeck include the annual Dutchess County Fair, and the Rhinebeck Farmers Market (held 10am-2pm on Sundays between May and December). The Rhinebeck Center for Performing Arts provides theater performances, a dance studio, and workshops throughout the year.
Wilderstein Historic Site – The Wilderstein Historic Site includes a mansion designed in the Queen Anne style, and 40 acres of grounds offering views of the Hudson River. The name Wilderstein translates to ‘wild man’s stone’ and is named after an Indian petroglyph located on the property. It was built in 1852 by the Suckley family. The last resident was Margaret Suckley, a distant cousin and confidante of Franklin Delano Roosevelt. The home includes a large collection of books, letters, photographs, furniture and art.
Beekman Arms and Delamater Inn – Right in the center of the historic district sits the stately Beekman Arms and Delamater Inn and Tavern. This historic inn, which has gone through several name changes, has welcomed guests since 1766 when it served early stage coaches. It is one of the oldest operating inns in the country. The rustic colonial style tavern looks much as it did in the 18th century, with an open hearth fireplace and overhead beams. The inn has served many notable guests including Thomas Wolfe, William Jennings Bryan, President Benjamin Harrison, and President Franklin Delano Roosevelt. The tavern serves lunch and dinner each day, and brunch on weekends. We ate an al fresco dinner in the garden, and I enjoyed a delicious Chicken Parmigiana. The dinner menu includes classics such as steak, Short Rib Pot Roast, Braised Lamb Shank and Prime Rib.
The Antique Market – Located in a two story barn behind the Beekman Arms, the Antique Market is filled with antiques from 30 dealers. Items include art, furniture, home décor, jewelry, kitchenware, books and more. The market is open daily from 11am to 5pm.
Hyde Park
About 11 miles south of Rhinebeck is the town of Hyde Park. Hyde Park lacks the historic village feel of Rhinebeck and Woodstock, but makes up for it in its historic sites and numerous mansions and estates that sit above the picturesque Hudson River. It is the location of Springwood, home of Franklin Delano Roosevelt, the Vanderbilt mansion and the Culinary Institute of America. Just north of Hyde Park is the Staatsburgh State Historic Site, a Gilded Age mansion built by Ogden and Ruth Livingston Mills.
Franklin Delano Roosevelt Home – Hyde Park is home to Springwood, President Franklin D. Roosevelt’s home, operated by the National Parks Service. The 300 acre estate was the birthplace, lifelong home, and burial site of the president. It also served as the ‘Summer White House’ where the President hosted his political associates and other national and international figures, such as King George VI, Queen Elizabeth and Winston Churchill. You can explore the various rooms including the study, library, kitchen, music room, and many bedrooms. The expansive grounds have gardens, a horse stable, and the burial site of both Franklin D. Roosevelt and Eleanore Roosevelt. Guided and self-guided tours of the museum are available and visitors are invited to stroll the grounds, gardens, and trails.
Adjacent the home is the Presidential Library and Museum, operated by the National Archives. The library is the first of the presidential libraries and was completed in 1940 to house the vast quantity of historical papers, books, and memorabilia the President had accumulated during a lifetime of public service and private collecting.
Vanderbilt National Historic Site – The Vanderbilt Historic Site sits on a bluff overlooking the Hudson River. It includes the opulent mansion, over 200 acres of grounds, formal Italian gardens, woodlands, and a visitor center. The 54 room mansion was built by Frederick Vanderbilt, grandson of Cornelius Vanderbilt who created the family’s wealth through railroads and shipping. The home, completed in 1899, was considered a vacation home, and designed in the Beaux-Arts style. The estate is a prominent example of Gilded Age wealth, where lavish homes were built by some of the wealthiest ‘new elite’ who tried to emulate European nobility by recreating extravagant homes, often intending to one-up each other.
Culinary Institute of America – The primary campus of the Culinary Institute of America is located south of Hyde Park, along Route 9, overlooking the Hudson River. Founded in 1946, the institute has been at the forefront of culinary innovation and education excellence, with more than 50,000 alumni hailing from around the world. Condé Nast Traveler magazine named the Hyde Park campus one of the 56 prettiest college campuses in America. Campus tours are available by reservation. The campus also has five student run restaurants open to the general public, focusing on various cuisines such as French, Italian and American. Reservations are recommended.
Eveready Diner – We stopped for lunch at the Eveready Diner, located on State Route 9 at the south end of Hyde Park. Once you enter this classic American diner, it’s like stepping back into the 1950’s. The Eveready has a quintessential, vintage stainless steal exterior, and the inside is filled with vinyl booths, formica tables, a soda fountain serving ice cream and milkshakes, and lots of kitsch. The Eveready has been featured in many different newspapers, including the New York Times, the Boston Globe, and Travel and Leisure Magazine. It was also featured on the Food Network’s ‘Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives’. The diner has a huge, eclectic menu, featuring breakfast, burgers, deli items, sandwiches, pasta, and old school favorites such as meatloaf, chicken pot pie and roasted turkey. I had a fresh and delicious Chinese Chicken Salad loaded with mixed greens, mandarin oranges, and slivered almonds all layered between huge crispy wontons.
Getting There
Amtrak – Amtrak provides service between New York City and Rhinebeck. The Rhinebeck station is actually three miles west in Rhinecliff. The tracks follow the eastern bank of the Hudson River, providing panoramic views. Amtrak also has a station in Poughkeepsie, located about six miles south of Hyde Park. From the Poughkeepsie station, bus service (Route C) connects to Hyde Park.
Highway – Hyde Park is about 85 miles north of New York City. There are multiple highways that lead to the Hudson Valley and Hyde Park, including Interstate 87 (to Highway 44, and to Highway 9); A slower, but more scenic route follows Highway 9A and Highway 9 along the east bank of the Hudson River. Rhinebeck is about 11 miles north of Hyde Park, via Highway 9.