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Exploring the Pacific Coast Highway in California’s Mendocino County

During a recent vacation to Sonoma Valley, my friends and I ventured north for a day to explore Mendocino County on California’s North Coast—a place where rugged beauty meets small-town charm. Mendocino County offers plenty for visitors, from towering redwood forests and rolling inland vineyards with award-winning wineries to quaint coastal towns. We enjoyed wandering along stunning beaches and coves and exploring charming communities like Fort Bragg and Mendocino. The never-ending twists, turns, and breathtaking vistas along the Pacific Coast Highway mesmerized us. Known for its strong artistic community, farm-to-table dining, and eco-conscious spirit, Mendocino County is the perfect place for both outdoor adventure and quiet retreat.

Driftwood and wildflowers at MacKerricher State Park

Fort Bragg

After driving north from Sonoma along Highway 101 and then through the forested landscape of Highway 20, we arrived at our first destination: the coastal town of Fort Bragg. The small community has a history rooted in lumber, fishing, and military industries. Having lived in the Pacific Northwest for many years, Fort Bragg’s vibe and character reminded me of many small coastal towns in Washington and Oregon.

Prior to European settlement, the area was home to one of North America’s densest populations of native hunter-gatherer tribes, with the Pomo being the largest cultural group. The Pomo people frequented the coast to collect shellfish, seaweed, salt, and other resources. An Indian reservation was established in 1856, and a military garrison was built on the site the following year, remaining active until 1864. Later, the town became a hub for the lumber and commercial fishing industries, including a salmon fishery and cannery at nearby Noyo Harbor.

Today, Fort Bragg has reinvented itself as a haven for nature lovers and coastal explorers, offering beaches, museums, gardens, and a food and drink scene highlighted by fresh seafood and craft beer.

Downtown Fort Bragg

Pudding Creek Trestle – Our first stop was the Pudding Creek Trestle on the north end of town. This impressive wooden structure spans Pudding Creek near its opening to the Pacific Ocean. Built in 1915 as part of the Ten Mile Railroad, the trestle was used to haul timber from a nearby logging area. While the railroad closed in 1949, the trestle remains and is now part of the MacKerricher State Park trail system. The bridge is nearly 530 feet long, 44 feet high, and contains 34 uprights. A great place to view and photograph the trestle is from Pudding Creek Beach. Visitors can also walk across it via access points from parking lots north and south of the structure.

The Pudding Creek Trestle

Glass Beach – Perhaps Fort Bragg’s most famous attraction is Glass Beach, located within MacKerricher State Park just north of downtown and south of Pudding Creek. This colorful beach, popular with photographers, is unlike most others. Its name comes from the millions of pieces of sea glass created by years of dumping garbage at a site that closed in 1967. Over time, pounding waves broke down the glass and pottery into small, smooth pieces in shades of white, green, and brown. The shoreline is framed by ice plants, wildflowers, driftwood, and rocky coastal outcroppings, with benches along the blufftop trail offering scenic views. While sitting, I watched squirrels peek out of the ice plants, seemingly posing for photos. A free parking area is located at the end of West Elm Street. From there, follow the signs and trail that lead down a cliff to the beach (the former stairs were washed out from rains in 2017).

Colorful Glass Beach

Downtown Fort Bragg – We spent time in Fort Bragg’s compact downtown centered along Main Street (Highway 1) and parallel Franklin Street. It’s filled with shops, restaurants, brewpubs, museums, and galleries such as Northcoast Artists Gallery, Edgewater Gallery, the Mendocino Coast Photography Gallery, and Art Explorers.  The Depot Mall and Museum houses boutique shops and a restored steam engine once used for logging. Other museums include the International Sea Glass Museum, which contains the largest permanent sea glass display in the world, and the Guest House Museum which highlights Fort Bragg’s history and features stunning redwood woodwork and stained glass.  The home was built by Charles Russell Johnson in 1892, and was the first in the area to have electricity and running water. Railroad fans will enjoy the Mendocino Coast Model Railroad and Historical Society which depicts the railroads that once served the redwood mills.

The International Sea Glass Museum

The town is also known for its public art. Numerous murals downtown are part of the Alleyway Art Project, including The Rhododendron by Ferric Decay (next to the parking lot behind 300 Main Street), Greetings from Fort Bragg on East Redwood Avenue, and Be a Light, which depicts the Fresnel lens from Point Cabrillo Lighthouse (300 N. Franklin Street).

Skunk Train – The Skunk Train, officially the California Western Railroad, has operated since 1885. Originally powered by gas engines that gave off a strong odor—earning the nickname—the line now offers scenic rides. The Pudding Creek Express is a 90-minute, seven-mile round-trip that travels through the Pudding Creek Estuary and redwood forests, departing from the downtown depot.

Noyo Harbor – At the south end of Fort Bragg lies Noyo Harbor, one of only four California harbors north of San Francisco. This working harbor on the Noyo River filled with fishing boats, has appeared in films and TV shows including Murder, She Wrote. We enjoyed a casual al fresco lunch at Noyo Fish Company, where we watched the busy river activity while savoring fried seafood and fish tacos served in wire baskets.

Fishing boats in Noyo Harbor

Mendocino Coast Botanical Gardens – Just south of Noyo Harbor, these 47 acres of seaside gardens showcase plants in harmony with Northern California’s coastal ecosystems. The mission of the nonprofit botanical garden is to engage and enrich lives by displaying and conserving plants in harmony with Northern California coastal ecosystems, as well as to preserve public access to the coast. Highlights include rhododendrons, dahlias, camellias, and heathers, as well as fruit and vegetable gardens that supply local food banks. Trails wind through wetlands, canyons, and coastal bluffs with spectacular ocean views.

The Pacific Coast Highway

The legendary Pacific Coast Highway (Highway 1), or PCH, is a feast for the senses. This two-lane road winds along cliffs, passes through quiet redwood groves, and reveals breathtaking vistas at every twist and turn. Pullouts allow travelers to pause and take in views where migrating whales are sometimes visible offshore. Starting in Fort Bragg, we drove south toward Mendocino, stopping at several sites along the way.

Caspar Headlands State Beach – Our first stop was Caspar Headlands State Beach, a picturesque stretch of sand that captures the rugged charm of California’s North Coast. The beach is a popular spot for walks, picnics, and tidepooling. The sheltered cove is a haven for marine life and a good spot for kayaking. The surrounding bluffs provide good vantage points for whale watching between November and April, when grey whales make their way south from Alaska to Mexico.

Caspar Headlands State Beach

Point Cabrillo – We made our way to the Point Cabrillo Light Station State Historic Park, located a mile south of Caspar Headlands. From the parking lot, we hiked a half-mile along a scenic trail through coastal prairie to the fully restored lighthouse built in 1909. It still stands as a beacon on the windswept headlands, with restored keeper’s quarters and a small museum dedicated to maritime navigation and coastal life in the early 20th century. Trails from the lighthouse lead to several small rocky coves. The park is a popular spot for birdwatching, photography, or simply soaking in the stunning scenery.

The Point Cabrillo Lighthouse

Russian Gulch State Park – Russian Gulch State Park, just north of Mendocino, is known for the heavily forested Russian Gulch Creek Canyon, a headland that features the Devil’s Punch Bowl, a sea cave where waves surge through a natural blowhole. A small beach lies beneath the scenic Russian Gulch Bridge, offering swimming, tidepool exploring, and rock fishing. A 3-mile inland trail winds through fern lined canyons and redwood forests to the 36-foot Russian Gulch waterfall.

Elk and Greenwood State Beach – The small hamlet of Elk sits 15 miles south of Mendocino, where the Navarro River spills into the Pacific. This once bustling former lumber town (originally known as Greenwood) is known for its close-knit community of artists and craftspeople. The Artists Collective showcases fine art from a group of some 30 Mendocino-area artists. Nearby is Greenwood State Beach, a great spot for boating, fishing, kayaking and beach walks. The visitor center museum, located directly on PCH, tells the story of the life of the town during its heyday between the late 19th and early 20th centuries. It includes photographs that feature early settlers, lumber camp artifacts and period furnishings.

We stopped at the nearby Harbor House Inn, a small upscale Craftsman style lodge that offers spectacular views of Greenwood Cove, Wharf Rock and Casket Rock from its manicured lawn and gardens. The lodge’s restaurant also offers a perfect view as well as a Full Experience tasting menu using locally sourced fresh ingredients (Thursday through Monday).

The view from Harbor House Inn

Gualala – Our last stop was Gualala, located at the southern boundary of Mendocino County, where it meets the Gualala River and Sonoma County. Gualala is known for its laid-back atmosphere, creative spirit, and incredible ocean views. Visitors can explore numerous local art galleries and craft shops, enjoy fresh seafood and farm-to-table dining, or paddle along the calm river. Nearby Gualala Point Regional Park has trails that lead to blufftop vistas and sandy beaches.

Looking toward a cove in Gualala

Mendocino

Just south of Russian Gulch lies Mendocino, a postcard-perfect town that looks like it was lifted from a painting. Perched on headlands overlooking the Pacific, Mendocino is famed for its Victorian architecture, coastal cliffs, and a thriving creative community.

Numerous films and television shows have used Mendocino as a backdrop, including Cujo, Karate Kid III, and The Russians are Coming. Visitors may recognize many of the town’s landmarks from the iconic murder mystery television series Murder, She Wrote. While the series’ town of Cabot Cove was set in New England, much of the outdoor footage was actually filmed in Mendocino, bringing in $2 million to the local economy. The Victorian style Blair House Inn, built in 1888, was used as the home of TV sleuth Jessica Fletcher.

We spent time walking Mendocino’s quiet streets dotted with Victorian homes, cafes, boutiques, art galleries and historic inns, followed by a hike through the stunning Mendocino Headlands State Park.

Looking toward Mendocino from Headlands State Park

Mendocino Headlands State Park – Mendocino Headlands State Park surrounds three sides of the village of Mendocino, offering visitors miles of trails that meander along dramatic coastal bluffs, windswept meadows. From the Ford House Visitors Center and Museum, located on Main Street, we found a nearby trail that took us through meadows and along the coast, where we looked out over hidden coves and watched waves crash against sea arches. Across the Big River, the Mendocino Bay Viewpoint offers a great view of the village from across the bay.

A stunning view at Mendocino Headlands State Park

Kelley House Museum – The Kelley House Museum is located in a historic home overlooking the ocean, built in 1861 by William Kelley. The museum showcases the rich history of the Mendocino coast through permanent exhibits including period furniture, historic photographs and other artifacts. It also offers walking tours of the historic district. The museum hosted the first Murder, She Wrote Festival in May 2024 which includes a walking tour of film locations, tea tasting, and scavenger hunt.

Getting There and Around

Getting to Mendocino County is part of the adventure, with its scenic drives and coastal views. The county is about 150 miles north of San Francisco, making it a three- to four-hour drive depending on your starting point. We started from Windsor in the Sonoma Valley, and headed north on Highway 101, and then Highway 20 west to Fort Bragg. Highway 20 winds through beautiful redwood forests and rolling valleys before meeting the Pacific.

The scenic Pacific Coast Highway

While Mendocino County does have a small regional airport in Ukiah, most travelers fly into San Francisco, Oakland, or Santa Rosa and rent a car for the final stretch.

A car is highly recommended for getting around. Public transportation is limited and the region’s highlights are spread around. Once we reached Fort Bragg, we traveled south along the Pacific Coast Highway (Highway 1), which serves as the county’s scenic backbone. Biking is a popular option for exploring the quieter backroads, and walking is the best way to enjoy the charm of Mendocino’s villages or the dramatic beauty of the coastal bluffs.

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