When one thinks of Marin County, California, the first thing that may come to mind is suburban San Francisco. The hilly, peninsula shaped county separating the Pacific Ocean from the San Francisco Bay offers so much more than residential subdivisions. Linked by the Golden Gate Bridge to the City by the Bay, Marin County is full of surprises. The affluent county of 260,000 people boasts a huge diversity of attractions, including stunning natural beauty, quaint waterfront towns, an array of beautiful beaches along a rugged coastline, ancient redwood forests and striking architecture. The towns of Sausalito, Tiburon, and Belvedere possess a charming coastal atmosphere, offering stunning views of the bay and the San Francisco skyline. Marin has the best of both worlds – easy access to one of the most beautiful cities in the world, with amazing natural beauty in its own backyard.
I’ve been to this magical part of the country numerous times, most recently, a few years ago with a group of friends. We spent time exploring sites in Marin County, as well as adjacent Sonoma County and the northern California coast. This post describes some of my favorite places in Marin County that are unquestionably worth a visit.
Golden Gate National Recreation Area
The first thing one sees approaching Marin County from the Golden Gate Bridge are the lush green, mostly barren hills forming the southern tip of the peninsula. These hills and coastal area are part of the Golden Gate National Recreation Area. The massive 82,000 acre park managed by the National Park Service is scattered across Marin County and portions of San Francisco and areas to the south. It sees more than 15 million visitors annually, and includes multiple attractions such as rugged landscapes, beautiful beaches, former military installations, redwood forest, Alcatraz and the Presidio of San Francisco. The recreation area supports 19 ecosystems with over 2,000 plant and animal species. Visitors can enjoy the views, go for a hike, or learn about California’s indigenous cultures, Spanish colonialism, the Mexican Republic, and US military expansion.
Marin Headlands – The Marin Headlands is located along the south coast of Marin County, within the National Recreation Area. The Headlands provide some of the most scenic views toward Golden Gate. From the Alexander Avenue exit of Highway 101, follow Bunker Road to McCullough Road, then to Conzelman Road which includes a series of one-way road sections that provide access to numerous view points as well as Black Sands Beach, the Coastal Trail, and Point Bonita.
Battery Spencer Overlook – One of the most popular view points is the Battery Spencer Overlook, located off Conzelman Road. At 500 feet above the bay, it’s the perfect spot to view the iconic 756 foot tall orange colored towers that form the Golden Gate Bridge, and the San Francisco skyline as a backdrop. The spot is a former defense spot built shortly after the Civil War. Considered to be one of the Wonders of the Modern World, the bridge was completed in 1937 at a cost of $37 million. At the time, it was the tallest and longest suspension bridge in the world. Other nearby observation points offering fantastic vistas include Golden Gate View Point, and the Golden Gate View Deck, further west on Conzelman Road.
Point Bonita Lighthouse – The historic Point Bonita Lighthouse is located within Marin Headlands at the tip of Point Bonita, where the Pacific Ocean leads to Golden Gate. The lighthouse was built in 1855 and was the third lighthouse built on the West Coast. It was used to assist ships through the treacherous Golden Gate straits. The still active lighthouse is maintained by the US Coast Guard. To access it, you will need to hike a somewhat hilly half mile long trail from the parking lot off Field Road. At the end of the trail is a pedestrian bridge. Once there, you’ll capture breathtaking views of San Francisco and the Pacific Ocean and potentially spot a whale.
Muir Woods National Monument – The Golden Gate Recreation Area is also home to Muir Woods, a massive old growth forest of towering redwood trees climbing to 250 feet. The trees range from 400 to 800 years old, some of the oldest and tallest redwood trees in the United States. The park was signed as a National Monument in 1908 by President Theodore Roosevelt to serve as both a refuge and laboratory. Its proximity to the Pacific Ocean creates a regular marine fog layer that shrouds the forest. It’s this wet environment that encourages vigorous plant growth. Here you can immerse yourself in the beauty of the ancient forest by strolling the network of well-maintained paths. Ranger led tours also provide an opportunity to learn about the unique ecosystem and history of the area. Visitors arriving by car must make a reservation for parking, and a shuttle also operates within the park.
Mount Tamalpais State Park
North of the Golden Gate Recreation Area is the Mount Tamalpais State Park. Mount Tamalpais, known locally as Mount Tam, is the highest peak in Marin County reaching nearly 2,600 feet. The park is filled with rolling foothills covered in grasslands and forest, deep canyons, and numerous trails. There are plenty of opportunities for hiking, mountain biking, and sightseeing. There are also many viewpoints providing breathtaking panoramic views of the deep blue Pacific Ocean and the Bay Area. On rare occasions, the snow-covered Sierra Nevada Mountain Range can be seen 150 miles away. Mount Tamalpais also serves as one of the last remaining wildlife refuges in the Bay Area and is home to a several rare and endangered plants and animal species, such as the Northern Spotted Owl.
Stinson Beach
North of Mount Tamalpais, Route 1 leads to the sleepy hamlet of Stinson Beach, known for its beautiful white sand beach. After the San Francisco earthquake in 1906, refugees settled in the area and opened businesses. Upon completion of the Golden Gate Bridge, more tourists and residents arrived. Today, Stinson Beach has several restaurants, shops and hotels within a small but attractive commercial district concentrated on Highway 1. Breakers Café serves a wide variety of dishes, including seafood, burgers and sandwiches, salads and Mexican cuisine. The beach is a favorite spot for surfing, picnicking and playing volleyball. The beach includes restrooms, picnic areas and a snack bar and lifeguards during summer.
Point Reyes National Seashore
Continuing north of Stinson Beach on Highway 1 leads to Point Reyes National Seashore. Point Reyes encompasses a huge peninsula formed by lengthy Tomales Bay on the east, and Drakes Bay to the west. This massive 70,000 acre park offers a diversity of attractions, including beaches, waterfalls, whale watching, hiking trails and wildlife. Some of the wildlife within the park include birds, tule elk, coyotes, and elephant seals. Over 400 bird species have been seen at the Point Reyes Bird Observatory. Point Reyes offers more than 70 miles of trails for hiking and biking through open pastures along rugged coastal cliffs. Three different visitor centers provide information, exhibits and souvenirs. Dairy and cattle ranches are also scattered throughout the peninsula, and it’s not uncommon to see cattle crossing the rural roads within the park.
Point Reyes Lighthouse – The Point Reyes Lighthouse is located at the far western tip of the national seashore, known as Point Reyes Headlands. This historic landmark offers breathtaking views of the Pacific Ocean and serves as a vantage point for whale watching during migration season (January through March). A 308-step walkway leads to the lighthouse which was built in 1870. Near the lighthouse is the South Beach Overlook which provides a fantastic view overlooking the 11 mile long Point Reyes Beach, an incredible expanse of undeveloped ocean beach.
Chimney Rock – On the opposite side of the headlands is Chimney Rock, a rocky peninsula that forms the western edge of Drakes Bay. A long trail leads from a parking area through a grassy hill that leads to the very tip of the peninsula offering spectacular views. Nearby is Elephant Seal Overlook which offers opportunities to view colonies of northern elephant seals.
Alamere Falls – Within the park is the Phillip Burton Wilderness Area, that contains 30,000 acres of forested ridges, coastal grasslands and sand dunes. Alamere Falls is located within the wilderness area. These falls cascade over a 40 foot cliff landing on to Wildcat Beach. It is one of 34 waterfalls in the world that flows into an ocean. We took a 13 mile round-trip hike from the Palomarin trailhead to reach the falls, passing through eucalyptus groves, forests, along lakes, and along a cliff edge offering spectacular views of the Pacific.
Inverness – The primary commercial area near Point Reyes is the village of Inverness located on the southwest shore of Tomales Bay. The town was used for scenes in the John Carpenter film The Fog. We stopped to eat at Vladimir’s Czech restaurant, where we savored delicious plates of schnitzel, goulash, cabbage rolls and chicken paprikash. Inverness has additional restaurants, markets, and lodging catering to visitors of Point Reyes.
Sausalito
Enchanting Sausalito hugs the east side of the Marin Headlands, facing Richardson Bay. Homes terrace up the hillside, and hundreds of houseboats dot Waldo Point Harbor. It was from one of these houseboats where Otis Redding conjured up the lyrics to The Dock of the Bay. Sausalito’s history has included that of a Native American settlement, a fishing village, a mining town, a rail hub, a center for bootlegging during Prohibition, and a center for ship building during World War II. Today, Sausalito is a thriving, upscale bedroom community and major tourist destination. The most popular activity is to stroll the commercial district and waterfront, taking in the quaint character and stunning views. The downtown, located along Bridgeway, has numerous shops, restaurants, galleries, wine tasting rooms, and galleries. You can also explore the Bay Model Visitor Center, a fascinating exhibit on the San Francisco watershed. From the waterfront, ferries take commuters and tourists to San Francisco and back. Waterfront restaurants at the south end of Sausalito offer nice vistas of the San Francisco Bay, Angel Island, Alcatraz Island and the San Francisco skyline. We captured a perfect view while enjoying drinks and appetizers at Barrel House Tavern. From the south, exit Highway 101 to Alexander Avenue, and follow it four miles into downtown Sausalito.
Marin County Civic Center
Architecture enthusiasts will enjoy visiting the Marin County Civic Center, located ten miles north of Sausalito in San Rafael. The center is an architectural gem designed by renowned architect Frank Lloyd Wright, considered to be the greatest American architect of the 20th century. The Civic Center’s design features a distinct blend of organic and modern styles, and its space age appearance has led to it being used for several films, such as Gattaca, and was the inspiration for scenes in the Star Wars prequel trilogy. The civic center was built in 1957 with later additions constructed as late as 1971. As the largest public project of Wright’s, it includes a three-story 580-foot long Administration Building, and a four story 880-foot long Hall of Justice. Both buildings span two valleys between three adjacent hills. The focal point of the center is the circular library’s flattened dome and its connected gold tower. You can take a 90 minute docent-led tour to learn more about the building’s history and design or attend one of the many events and programs held at the venue throughout the year.
Getting There and Around
By Road – Highway 101 leads from the San Francisco Peninsula into Marin County, and continues north toward Sonoma County. It is the primary north-south highway that serves the urbanized eastern portion of Marin County. Highway 1 diverges from Highway 101 near Manzanita, and continues west to Muir Beach, providing access along the western coast of the county. Interstate 580 provides access from Oakland and the East Bay, linking to Highway 101 in San Rafael.
By Air – The most convenient airports to Marin County are San Francisco International Airport, located south of San Francisco, and Oakland International Airport. Both offer many airlines and nonstop routes. North of Marin, the smaller Sonoma County Airport offers nonstop flights to 11 destinations in the western US.
By Train – The Sonoma Marin Area Rail Transit (SMART) offers regularly scheduled commuter rail service between Sonoma County Airport to the north, and San Rafael, as well as Larkspur to the south.
By Bus – Marin Transit provides numerous regularly scheduled routes that serve areas throughout Marin County.