As part of a recent 11-night Nordic summer cruise on the NCL Prima, I was able to visit two ports in Iceland, after embarking from Southampton and stopping at Amsterdam and ports in Norway. This was my second trip to Iceland and I was excited to see areas I had not yet explored, including the north coast city of Akureyri, as well as a return to Reykjavik. My first trip in 2009 included sites in Reykjavik, the nearby Golden Circle sites, and numerous waterfalls and black sand beaches along the south coast. An overview of my first trip can be found here.
Our original itinerary was supposed to include the small town of Ísafjörður, located on the northwest Westfjords region, but unfortunately a project to extend the town pier was delayed, cancelling this port.
Reykjavik, the Bay of Smokes
Reykjavik was our disembarkation point for the cruise, and we spent a total of three days here. Hotels can be quite expensive throughout Iceland, but we found a moderately priced, comfortable room at the Marina Berjaya hotel, located in a central location near the harbor.
Reykjavik is located at the tip of the Seltjarnar Peninsula, and its name means Bay of Smokes. It was founded in 874 by the Norseman Ingólfur Arnarson. It was designated the administrative center for the Danish ruled island in 1786, and remained a small fishing village until the 20th century. The capital and largest city of Iceland is a wonderful place to use as a base to explore the various sites of the country. This organized, clean city contains a mixture of modern glass high rises, simple but colorful stucco or wooden homes, and simple mid century concrete apartment buildings. Ingolfur Square is the main square, and is surrounded by hotels, shops and restaurants. From the square, head east on Austurstraeti, which then becomes Bankastraeti (Bank Street), and then becomes Laugavegur. This attractive and popular corridor is where most of the commercial activity is located, including restaurants, coffee shops, retail stores, visitor centers, tourist agencies, and hotels. One thing that was visibly noticeable since my original trip to Reykjavik was the amount of colorful and vibrant mural art that has popped up throughout the city.
Hallgrimskirkja Church – In 2009, I was unable to visit Hallgrimskirkja, the uniquely designed Lutheran church that is visible from throughout Reykjavik, due to a renovation project. I made sure that I wasn’t going to miss it this time. Hallgrimskrkja, located at the east end of rainbow painted Skólavörðustígur (a commercial street), is known for its curved spire and side wings. It’s the largest church in Iceland, and one of the tallest structures in the country. Originally, the height was intended to be shorter, but the church leaders wanted to ensure that it stood taller than the city’s Catholic church.
In the late 1930’s, the church was designed by Guðjón Samúelsson, the official state architect of Iceland at the time. He intended to create a unique and recognizable Icelandic architectural style, drawing inspiration from the Icelandic landscape. Unfortunately, Samúelsson died in 1950, before the completion of the church.
The construction began in 1945, and wasn’t completed until 1986. A statue of Norse explorer Leif Erikson greets you outside the church. The exterior design resembles the columnar basalt lave flows found throughout Iceland. Two large pipe organs are within the church, including one installed in 1946, and another completed in 1992 that is 45 feet tall and has 5,275 pipes. An observation tower is also open to the public, providing expansive views of the Reykjavik region.
National Museum of Iceland – The National Museum of Iceland, a 15 minute walk south of the harbor area, showcases the history of Iceland, with a wide collection of arts, crafts, tools, religious artifacts and archeological remains. It includes both a permanent exhibit, and temporary exhibits.
The museum’s permanent exhibition, ‘Making of a Nation,’ is located on the main floor. It includes 2,000 objects, and begins with the ship in which Viking settlers crossed the ocean, and ends in a modern airport. The exhibit includes a number of relics such as religious artifacts, tools, swords, drinking horns, furniture and the Valthjofsstadur door, a medieval church door featuring a carving of the legend of Lion-Knight.
The second floor focuses on history between the year 1600 and the modern era after. I enjoyed observing a large collection of black and white photographs displaying ordinary life in Iceland during several decades of the twentieth century. The museum includes a café, and a gift shop, located on the ground level.
The Icelandic Phallological museum – Any visit to Reykjavik should include a stop at one of the most unusual museums in the world, the Icelandic Phallological Museum. This relatively small museum in the basement of a downtown building located on Kalkofnsvegur, focuses on the penis. It includes over 200 penises and penile parts from nearly all land and sea mammals in Iceland, ranging from a hamster to a sperm whale. The museum also includes silver molds of the national handball team of Iceland, which won the silver medal at the 2008 Olympics. The museum also includes a café and bistro, and a gift shop with interesting souvenirs to choose from.
The Blue Lagoon – Our last day was spent at the Blue Lagoon, Iceland’s most famous geothermal spa, named for the milky blue color of its water. Just like my first trip, we made a stop at the Blue Lagoon on the way to the nearby airport, allowing for a relaxing day before our flight. We used Destination Blue Lagoon to book bus transport between central Reykjavik and the Blue Lagoon, and a transfer from the Blue Lagoon to the airport. The service between the city and Blue Lagoon was rather cumbersome. Our original pick-up was delayed, and then required a transfer to a larger bus, and it took much longer to get to the Blue Lagoon than I had anticipated.
We were able to spend three hours at the Blue Lagoon, which is located in a lava field, supplied by water used in the nearby Svartsengi geothermal power station. The huge complex includes the lagoon itself (with water temperatures ranging from 99 to 102 degrees Fahrenheit), hotels, two restaurants and a retreat spa. We paid for the premium pass (a total of $125 per person), which included access to the lagoon, three mud masks, a drink of choice, a towel and locker service, and bathrobe. A glass of sparkling wine was also included if we ate at the Lava restaurant.
Places to Eat in Reykjavik
Braud and Company – This local artisanal bakery chain serves delicious baked goods using organically grown ingredients. Items include breads, cookies, croissants, and cinnamon and cardamom buns.
Baejarins Beztu Pylsur – This famous hot dog stand is known for its dogs made of lamb meat that snap when you take a bit of them. The dogs come with an option for a variety of condiments, including a sweet mustard. Bill Clinton made the hot dog stand near the harbor famous when he visited in 2004. Since then, other stands have opened up throughout Reykjavik, including the airport. In a country known for its expensive food, a tasty hot dog can provide a quick and inexpensive hunger fix.
Café Babalu – This quirky two story café is located on the main commercial street of Skólavörðustígur. The interior includes a huge collection of kitschy vintage items, including a tiki collection, puppets, old toys, and post cards. A resident cat will also keep you company while you enjoy your meal. The café serves an assortment of coffees and teas, pastries, cakes, crepes, sandwiches and soups.
Himalayan Spice – This comfortable Nepalese restaurant is located near the waterfront. We tried the steamed chicken dumplings (momo) served with a Himalayan chutney, and a spicy tasty biryani.
Grillmarkaðurinn – This upscale restaurant focuses on grilled meats, such as skewers and steaks, puffin, and shrimp. We loved the duck springrolls. The bread basket includes an interesting and delicious whipped butter mixed with Icelandic lava salt.
Akureyri, the Capital of North Iceland
We spent one day in Akureyri, the largest town in Iceland outside of the Reykjavik capital area. Nicknamed the Capital of North Iceland, this attractive fishing community with a population of nearly 20,000 is situated on Fjord Eyjafjörður (Island Fjord). Akureyri is the gateway to the north’s spectacular beauty, most notably the Myvatn region, Dettifoss waterfall, Godafoss waterfall, and Asbyrgi canyon, which can all be visited on day trips from Akureyri.
The area was originally settled by Norse Vikings as early as the 9th century, and Danish merchants built camps here in the 17th century. The permanent settlement started in 1778, but significant growth didn’t occur until after World War II due to the presence of an air base. Akureyri has a small quaint commercial district, several museums, and an attractive botanical garden.
Akureyri Botanical Garden – One of the best sites to see in Akureyri is the Akureyri Botanical Garden, located up a hill from the commercial area, and open between June and September. This beautiful garden, opened in 1912, is one of the northernmost botanical gardens in the world. Eyjafjord, one of the longest fjords in Iceland, helps to provide a favorable microclimate for plant growth. The garden includes 430 native species and surprisingly, 6,600 alien species. A café is located within the garden, selling food and beverages.
Godafoss – Godafoss, or waterfall of the gods, is one of the most beautiful waterfalls in Iceland. Godafoss is located about 45 minutes east of Akureyri, off the main ring road (Highway 1). An Icelandic legend says that a Viking leader named Þorgeir Ljósvetningagoði threw his Pagan statues into the waterfall after Christianity came to Iceland, resulting in its name. Another story is that the name comes from the fact that the waterfall is god-like in beauty. The 55 foot high waterfall flows over a 100 foot wide horseshoe-shaped rock that rises in the center separating the waterfall in two. One recommendation is to bring bug repellent. While walking the long trail to the waterfall, we were bothered by swarms of large black flies.
Laufás Museum and heritage site – The Laufás Museum and heritage site is located about 15 miles from Akureyri, on the east side of Fjord Eyjafjörður. It was originally a settlement of priests from the year 1047 until 1935. The site includes a 19th century church, and a large 19th century turf covered farmhouse that is made of a series interconnected buildings via underground corridors. It’s an interesting spot to see what life was like in rural Iceland before the modern era, while also enjoying the surrounding natural beauty. The heritage site includes a small cafe and gift shop.
Forest Lagoon Spa – Across the fjord from Aukureyri is the beautiful Forest Lagoon, a recently built geothermal spa offering views of the surrounding forest and fjord. The contemporary but rustic designed Forest Lagoon includes two pools, including an infinity pool, ranging from 98.6 to 104 degrees Fahrenheit, as well as a cold pool and sauna. There are two swim up bars, and an onsite bistro. After you enter, you are provided a wrist ban which is used for your locker and all purchases, such as drinks and food.
