The Campanian Archipelago sits across the Gulf of Naples, Italy in the Tyrrhenian Sea, and includes a cluster of stunningly beautiful volcanic islands. Capri, the most famous, is known for its glamourous image, rocky cliffs, charming port towns, luxury boutiques, stylish cafes, and ancient Roman ruins. With these attractions come costs – both in expense and crowds. I recently visited Naples in the late spring, and Capri was already getting jam-packed with tourists. Rather than fight the crowds, our group decided to check out an alternative and equally beautiful island – Ischia, which is a part of the Phlegraean Island chain on the north side of the gulf.
Ischia is known for its volcanic landscapes, natural thermal springs, picturesque villages, and dramatic coastlines. It offers a slower, more authentic taste of island life, featuring waterfront cafés, mineral-rich hot springs, forested hillsides, and colorful fishing villages where life moves at an unhurried pace.
Ischia is the largest of the Campanian Archipelago. It was formed by volcanic activity thousands of years ago, lending to fertile soil, abundant vineyards, and more than 100 thermal springs. It has attracted visitors since the days of the ancient Greeks and Romans, who believed the island’s mineral waters possessed healing properties. Today, Ischia remains one of Italy’s premier wellness destinations while retaining the charm of a traditional Mediterranean island.
From the port of Pozzuoli, located west of Naples, we purchased tickets to Casamiccioli Terme, one of two ports on the island. The other option is taking a ferry to Porto d’Ischia. The ferry ride took about an hour, and along the way we had scenic views of Procida, another island known for its pastel painted houses and volcanic black sand beaches. The island was also the key filming location for the 1999 film The Talented Mr. Ripley.
Upon our arrival, we confirmed that while Pozzuoli was an attractive town, it was a little too small with limited attractions. We purchased a bus ticket from a newspaper kiosk, offering unlimited rides for the day. Our first stop was Porto d’Ischia, the largest town on Ischia. Porto d’Ischia is centered around an attractive natural harbor lined with cafés, seafood restaurants, gelaterias, and marinas filled with colorful fishing boats and sleek yachts, making it a pleasant place to stroll and people-watch. We headed toward Via Roma (the street name eventually changes to Corso Vittoria Colonna) the town’s principal shopping street, lined with elegant boutiques, artisan shops, and stylish cafés.
Ischia Ponte and Castello Aragonese
Corso Vittoria Colonna leads toward the historic district of Ischia Ponte. From there, a narrow stone causeway leads to Aragonese Castle which towers over a rocky volcanic islet and 300 feet above the sea. The castle was originally fortified in the 5th century BC by Hiero I of Syracuse to defend the Bay of Naples against Etruscan fleets. It was later captured by the Romans, as well as the Parthenopeans, the ancient inhabitants of Naples. During the 15th century, Alfonso V of Aragon rebuilt the fortress to defend the inhabitants against pirates. During the 18th century, the fortress housed a convent, monastery and 13 churches. Today visitors can wander through ancient churches, gardens, prison cells, and panoramic terraces while enjoying sweeping views of the Bay of Naples, Mount Vesuvius, and the colorful harbor below. The climb to the summit is well worth the effort, offering some of the finest scenery anywhere on the island.
After our visit to the castle, we enjoyed a delicious lunch at ‘a Paranza, a nearby seaside restaurant offering views toward the castle. I feasted on a dish of light and fluffy gnocchi paired with tomatoes, peppers, basil, guanciale and mozzarella.
Sant’Angelo
From Ischia Ponte, we took a bus counterclockwise around the island to Sant’Angelo, a charming fishing village located at the southern tip of the island. Along the way, a large group of school children boarded the bus, and the ride became uncomfortably crowded, with elbows jamming into me, epecially as the bus made its way along tight hairpin turns. I was elated when we finally arrived in Sant’Angelo. From the bus stop, we made our way down a hill to the village, one of Ischia’s most striking destinations. Pastel-colored houses are clustered around a tiny harbor filled with fishing boats and luxury yachts, and narrow pedestrian alleys lead past boutiques, cafés, and seafood restaurants. A narrow isthmus leads to a large volcanic rock. No cars are allowed in the village center, resulting in a peaceful atmosphere that feels worlds away from bustling Naples. We spent time at Banana Beach, a small, relaxing stretch of shoreline with crystal-clear turquoise waters. On the other side of the village is the thermal Le Fumarole Beach, where underground volcanic heat pushes jets of steam through the sand. Le Fumearole is part of the larger Maronti Beach, which stretches nearly two miles.
Beaches and Coastal Scenery
In addition to those we visited, Ishia offers other inviting beaches, such as Citara Beach, on the western coast. It is popular for its sunsets and crystal-clear waters. San Montano Beach, located on the northwest tip of the island, offers a sheltered cove ideal for swimming. Boat excursions circle the island, revealing hidden coves, sea caves, dramatic cliffs, and secluded swimming spots inaccessible by land.
Thermal Springs and Spa Gardens
Ischia is best known for its natural thermal waters located throughout the island. They bubble to the surface after being heated by volcanic activity below the earth. There are several landscaped thermal parks that allow visitors to soak in pools of varying temperatures. They include Poseidon Thermal Gardens in Forio and Negombo Thermal Gardens near Lacco Ameno. Both are located near the sea and include mineral-rich pools, lush botanical gardens, and direct beach access, making them ideal places to spend an entire day relaxing.
For those seeking a more natural experience, Sorgeto Bay, on the southwest corner of the island, features warm thermal water flowing directly into rocky pools, where visitors can bathe outdoors year-round.
Other Picturesque Towns
While we only visited two of Ischia’s towns, there are others worth visiting that have their own personality. Forio, on the western side of Ischia, is known for its whitewashed churches, a colorful harbor, turquoise colored water, and spectacular sunsets. Lacco Ameno on the northwest corner of the island, is famous for the “Fungo,” a distinctive mushroom-shaped volcanic rock rising from the sea.
We made the right decision in choosing Ischia, and I would gladly return, though I would make sure to add a few extra days to appreciate the island’s many attractions.
Getting There
Reaching Ischia is straightforward from Naples. Frequent ferries of multiple companies depart from both Molo Beverello and Porta di Massa, two ports that are near each other in central Naples. Hydrofoils leave from Molo Beverello while regular ferries leave from Porta di Massa. Crossings take approximately 50 minutes by hydrofoil and 90 minutes by regular ferry. Ferries are also available from the port of Pozzuoli, located west of Naples, and take approximately 60 minutes. Parking is available at all ports. During the summer season, ferry service increases considerably.
Getting Around
Ischia is relatively easy to explore, with buses being the most cost-effective way of getting around the island. An extensive public bus network circles the island and connects all major towns, beaches, and attractions. The buses are inexpensive and frequent, though they can become crowded during peak tourist season. Tickets can be purchased for a single journey, and all-day tickets can also be purchased. Tickets can be purchased at various venues like bars, news-stands or travel agents, and should be time-stamped on the bus.
Taxis are readily available, while scooters are a popular option for experienced riders seeking greater flexibility. Rental cars are available but not recommended due to narrow roads and limited parking.
When to Visit
The best time to visit Ischia is between April and June and September through October. During these months, temperatures are comfortably warm, flowers are in bloom, and the sea remains pleasant for swimming without the heavy crowds of midsummer. July and August bring more crowds, hotter weather, lively festivals, and bustling beaches, making them ideal for those seeking a vibrant summer atmosphere. Winter is considerably quieter, with many hotels and seasonal businesses closing, although the island’s famous thermal spas continue attracting visitors looking for relaxation and wellness.