Michigan’s Upper Peninsula, also known as the UP, is one of my favorite places in the Midwest – my most recent trip brought back memories of my youth, when my family would spend part of the summer exploring the UP’s wild landscape of dense forest, sandy beaches, colorful sandstone cliffs, tumbling waterfalls, and the cold, clear blue bodies of water.
My grandparents had retired to northern Michigan, and after our visits with them, we would head further north, across the iconic Mackinac Bridge, to a dude ranch located along the north shore of Lake Michigan. Here we would stay for a week with a host of other families, riding horses through the Hiawatha National Forest and along the beach, eat homestyle dinners, and partake in nightly events like campfires, moonlit hayrides, talent night, and casino night. Sadly, the ranch closed years ago and all that remains is an empty stretch of beach.
The UP is a vast, nearly empty strip of land that is mostly wilderness, surrounded the three largest of the Great Lakes – Huron, Superior and Michigan. It is comprised of a remarkably diverse and beautiful landscape, small quaint towns, historic lighthouses, and a small car-free island loaded with Victorian charm.
In the 1830’s, much of the UP was granted to Michigan out of an unlikely 19th-century border dispute known as the Toledo War. Back then, the Michigan Territory and Ohio both claimed a narrow strip of land along their border that included the strategically important port of Toledo. To resolve the dispute and clear the way for Michigan to become a state, Congress awarded the Toledo Strip to Ohio while offering Michigan most of what is now the western UP as compensation. The discovery and development of vast deposits of copper and iron ore soon demonstrated the enormous value of the UP, and today, it’s beauty and draw has made Michigan the real winner.
The Mackinac Bridge: Gateway to the Upper Peninsula
A trip through the UP can begin by crossing the impressive Mackinac Bridge, a five mile-long green painted suspension bridge stretching across the Straights of Mackinac. When I was young, I always looked forward to crossing this great engineering feat. I marveled at its engineering and beauty while peering down to Lake Michigan on one side and Lake Huron on the other. It was the gateway to a totally different world.
The bridge opened in 1957 at a cost of $100 million, negating the need to reach either side by ferry. Viewpoints of the bridge are located on both peninsulas, and a visitor center provides a history and timeline of the bridge.
Before crossing the bridge, spend some time exploring the resort city of Mackinaw City on the Lower Peninsula. Here, visitors can tour colonial Michilimackinac, a reconstructed 18th-century fort and fur-trading village that provides a glimpse into the region’s colonial history. The Old Mackinac Point Lighthouse, built in 1892, is another interesting attraction. The lighthouse once guided ships through the dangerous waters surrounding the Straits of Mackinac. Today, visitors can climb the tower for views toward the Mackinac Bridge and surrounding waters.
Stepping Back in Time on Mackinac Island
From both Mackinaw City and St. Ignace, passenger ferries carry visitors across the Straits to Mackinac Island, one of Michigan’s most distinctive destinations. Automobiles are prohibited on the island, so transportation is by foot, bicycle, or horse-drawn carriage. The result is a wonderfully old-fashioned atmosphere. The island’s town is filled with Victorian style homes, bed and breakfasts, and shops, many selling favorites like fudge and saltwater taffy. Horses clip-clop through the streets, and bicycle bells replace the sounds of traffic heard in other places.
The island’s most famous attraction is the Grand Hotel, which rises above a hill overlooking Lake Huron. This majestic white painted hotel built in 1887 is known for its expansive 660-foot long porch lined with rocking chairs. It is claimed to be the longest porch in the world. Visitors can sit back and enjoy sweeping views of the water while watching ferries and boats cross the Straits.
Inside, the hotel has soaring ceilings, chandeliers, and ornate furnishings. The grand parlor areas, decorated in hues of pink and green, capture the atmosphere of a bygone resort era. The hotel has been used for several films, most famously Somewhere in Time (1980), starring Christopher Reeve and Jane Seymour. Keep in mind, to visit the porch or interior, non-guests are required to pay a fee ($14 as of this article).
Another famous attraction is Fort Mackinac, perched above the harbor. It was established as a British military outpost and later served American troops. Today, exhibits, demonstrations and living-history programs tell stories of military life, family life and the strategic importance of the Straits.
A great way to explore the island is by bicycle, and there are numerous bike rental shops scattered around town. A flat road circles around the island providing changing views of Lake Huron, or landmarks like Arch Rock, an enormous limestone arc formation rising above the shoreline.
Sault Sainte Marie‘s Soo Locks
At the northeastern tip of the UP, where Interstate 75 enters Canada, is Sault Sainte Marie, one of Michigan’s oldest and most historic cities. It’s location on the St. Marys River made it an important transportation hub, connecting Lake Superior with the lower Great Lakes. The city’s biggest attraction is the Soo Locks that allow ships to bypass the rapids between Lake Superior and the lower Great Lakes. Here, visitors can watch enormous freighters rise and descend between different water levels. The visitor center includes exhibits about the history and operation of the locks, while seasonal boat tours offer a closer perspective by taking passengers through the lock system.
Tahquamenon Falls: The Power of the Upper Peninsula
From Sault Sainte Marie, head west along West Lakeshore Drive, around Waiska Bay and continue along the south shore of Whitefish Bay. Then turn onto Highway 123 until you reach one of the UP’s most spectacular natural attractions, Tahquamenon Falls State Park. The park is known for its Upper and Lower Falls, each unique but equally impressive.
The Upper Falls are more than 200 feet wide, ranking among the largest waterfalls in the eastern United States. The falls appear as a massive, smooth cascade of water, with an amber color due to tannins from surrounding wetlands. Four miles downstream are the Lower Falls which have a completely different character. The river divides around an island into a series of smaller cascades. Visitors can wade in the water and cross the Lower Falls or rent a rowboat to explore the water around the island. A free shuttle service connects the two falls, or visitors can drive the scenic route between them. The 50,000 acre park includes over 35 miles of trails and several viewing platforms providing different perspectives of the falls.
Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore
Continue west along Highway 123 through Newberry State Forest and west on Highway 28 to reach Munising, an ideal base for exploring Michigan’s spectacular Lake Superior shoreline and Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore. The park was established in 1966 and was the first national lakeshore in the United States. The name is derived from the shades of red, orange, brown, blue and green colored mineral stains that streak the sandstone cliffs. The colorful patterns come from minerals carried by water through cracks in the rock. The cliffs provide a dramatic contrast to the turquoise color of Lake Superior.
The park stretches for 42 miles along Lake Superior and features more than 15 miles of sandstone cliffs, beaches, waterfalls, sand dunes, forests and inland lakes. Nearly 100 miles of trails provide access to the landscape. Miners Castle point is one of Pictured Rocks’ most recognizable formations, offering spectacular overlooks above Lake Superior. It is the only cliff area in the park accessible directly by car, where a short trail is accessed from the parking lot.
The best and most dramatic experience for witnessing the lakeshore is from the Pictured Rocks boat cruise, located right on Munising Bay. There are different tours providing spectacular views of colorful sandstone cliffs, sea caves, arches, waterfalls, beaches and lighthouses from the water. The National Park Service specifically identifies the water as the best vantage point for viewing the cliffs, since the formations are difficult or impossible to appreciate from above. Make sure to arrive at the terminal early to ensure a good viewing spot on the boat. Another option for viewing the cliffs is by kayak. It offers a more intimate experience, allowing visitors to paddle beneath towering cliffs. Since conditions on Lake Superior can change quickly, it is recommended to take a guided trip.
The park offers scenic trails, including the Chapel Loop, which is a 10-mile trail through hardwood forest and along four miles of shoreline. Another 1.2 mile trail leads to the 60 foot high Chapel Falls. There are several other waterfalls worth checking out in or near Munising including Munising Falls (which includes a 50 food drop through a forested gorge), Wagner Falls, and Alger Falls.
For food, check out some of my favorites in Munising, including Gallery Coffee and Miners Pasty (See a description of pasties below). For Mexican food, try Border Grill which offers inexpensive burritos, bowls and tacos, along with good views toward the lake.
Culture and Nature in Marquette
Traveling west along Highway 28, which hugs the south shore of Lake Superior, provides access to Marquette. It is the largest city in the UP, yet is still small, with just over 20,000 residents. With its historic downtown, charming neighborhoods, Northern Michigan University campus, and diversity of restaurants and shops, Marquette offers a lively contrast to the surrounding wilderness.
Marquette’s history and economy has long been tied to the waterfront. The city is a major port for shipping iron-ore from the Marquette Iron Range. Remnants of that industrial heritage remain, including massive retired ore docks that line the waterfront.
A good place to start a visit is downtown, where streets are filled with locally owned restaurants, breweries and shops. A good food option is the Iron Bay Restaurant and Drinkery located near the downtown waterfront. I enjoyed the Superior tacos and a bowl of the creamy lemon chicken soup loaded with red quinoa.
Head north along Lakeshore Boulevard and you’ll reach the Marquette Maritime Museum which offers insight into the area’s maritime history including exhibits of shipwrecks such as the Edmund Fitzgerald. Nearby is the Marquette lighthouse, and the museum offers tours to the top.
Further north is Presque Isle Park, a 323-acre forested peninsula jutting into Lake Superior, that is largely untouched due to the recommendation of famous landscape architect Frederick Law Olmstead who was asked to design the park. The park is covered by natural forest along with marshes, rocky outcrops and pebble beaches, and is accessed by trails and a park drive that runs around the peninsula.
Next, head to Sugarloaf Mountain where a brief hike leads to observation decks offering panoramic views of Marquette, surrounding forests and Lake Superior.
Just east of Marquette, make sure to stop at the Lakenenland Sculpture Park. This free, 37-acre park was built by Tom Lakenen, and was noted by the Detroit Free Press as “The coolest unofficial roadside rest stop in the state.” It includes over 100 diverse and whimsical metal art sculptures, including a large dinosaur catching a swordfish by a fishing rod.
The Pasty – A Favorite Treat of the Upper Peninsula
While driving around the Upper Peninsula, you’ll see numerous small stores or restaurants selling pasties, which are a culinary identity of the region. These hearty handheld meat pies contain a flaky shortcrust wrapped around a traditional filling of beef and root vegetables (potatoes, carrots, onion and rutabaga) and often served with gravy or ketchup. More modern versions include other fillings, such as chicken, sausage, or vegetarian items. Breakfast varieties include eggs with cheese. They were originally brought to the UP in the 1800’s by immigrant miners from Cornwall, England. The food was considered a practical lunch for the workers as it allowed for easy handling in the copper and iron mines. Whenever I’m in the UP, I make multiple stops at different shops, comparing the various styles and recipes.
When to Visit the Upper Peninsula
The most popular time to visit the Upper Peninsula is Summer, when temperatures generally reach around 75 degrees (F), or 24 degrees (C), making it comfortable for hiking, boating, biking and exploring the lakeshore. Keep in mind that the beaches are known to attract biting stable flies, also known as sand flies, during summer. The irritating and aggressive flies are most common in July and August, and using insect repellent is a must.
During Fall, the forests turn brilliant shades of red, orange and yellow, making scenic drives through the region particularly memorable, and temperatures reach a comfortable 60 degrees (F).
Spring brings waterfalls swollen by snowmelt and beautiful wildflowers, while winter transforms the region into a destination for snowshoeing, cross-country skiing, snowmobiling and ice-related adventures.
Getting Around
Getting around the Upper Peninsula requires a car, as distances can be quite long between major attractions. But driving is part of the appeal as quiet roads wind through forests and along the Great Lakes, or through small communities that invite spontaneous stops. Take advantage of the experience by pulling over at a scenic overlook or walking to a deserted beach. Be sure to keep a look out for deer, especially during the early morning and late evening. On my last trip we unfortunately hit a deer, luckily with minimal damage to the car.