I recently spent two weeks visiting several destinations in the Philippines, the birthplace of my father, and where the local tourism slogan notes that “It’s more Fun in the Philippines.” I can happily attest that the slogan rings true. While there, I traveled to several amazing and beautiful destinations, including Palawan, Boracay, Manila and Cebu. We used a local Philippine tour agency, Guide to the Philippines, to customize our trip, including the arrangement of hotels, tours, transfers, and domestic flights.
While I have traveled throughout the Philippines on numerous other trips, I have always wanted to visit Palawan, known as the Philippines’ last ecological frontier because of its pristine natural beauty, rich biodiversity, and crystal-clear waters.
Palawan is a Philippine province comprised of an archipelago consisting of Palawan Island, a narrow 264 mile long island, surrounded by roughly 1,800 other smaller islands. The province stretches between the South China Sea and the Sulu Sea. An increasing number of tourists are drawn to Palawan’s dramatic limestone cliffs, lush rainforests, turquoise colored water, hidden lagoons, white sand beaches, vibrant coral reefs and colorful fish. In fact, I found the snorkeling throughout Palawan to be the best that I’ve experienced anywhere. We visited three of Palawan’s most famous destinations – El Nido, with its breathtaking islands; Coron, renowned for its world-class wreck diving; and Puerto Princesa, where the UNESCO-listed Underground River winds through a subterranean cave system.
Palawan Eco-Tourism
Palawan is known for its practice of ecotourism done right, offering visitors immersive experiences that prioritize environmental conservation and support for local communities. Many of the tour operators and accommodations follow sustainable practices, including limiting plastic use, supporting local farmers and fishermen, and promoting reef-safe tourism. Eco-resorts can be found throughout Palawan that blend seamlessly with the environment. Educational programs help raise awareness about protecting Palawan’s delicate ecosystems, ensuring that the province’s incredible biodiversity and natural wonders remain intact for future generations. Unlike many developing parts of the world, it is rare to find much pollution or litter throughout Palawan.
El Nido – The Gateway to Bacuit Bay
Located on the northern tip of Palawan Island, the municipality of El Nido is one of the world’s most breathtaking travel destinations. It is the gateway to the Bacuit Archipelago, a collection of over 40 limestone islands and islets that rise sharply out of crystal-clear waters. These islands are home to lush jungles, secret beaches, and mysterious caves. The region is especially known for dramatic limestone cliffs, hidden lagoons, turquoise waters, and powdery white beaches.
El Nido Town – El Nido Town is the base for visitors to El Nido. While the town is relatively small, it packs a lot of energy, offering a vibrant mix of local culture, attractions and services. El Nido maintains a rustic charm, and the accommodations range from budget hostels to eco-luxury resorts. Even the higher-end options are designed to blend with the natural surroundings. All of these attractions have earned this secluded coastal town as a bucket-list destination for nature lovers and adventurers alike.
The town itself is laid-back, with cozy beach bars, seafood restaurants, and live music giving it a chilled, bohemian vibe. The narrow streets are lined with food and entertainment options, souvenir shops, tour operators, dive centers, backpacker hostels and boutique hotels. Freshly caught fish, grilled squid, mango shakes, and local specialties like kinilaw (Filipino ceviche) highlight the local cuisine. Numerous bars and restaurants directly line the beach, providing a relaxing atmosphere, perfect for catching the sunset while dining on fresh seafood. We found a good restaurant on the beach called ‘High Tides Bistro’ that has an extensive bar menu, and serves a variety of seafood, burgers, and pasta including a very tasty Spaghetti Bolognese.
El Nido offers its own unique attractions, such as Taraw Cliff, where visitors can enjoy panoramic views of the bay, or trek across the Taraw Canopy Walk. There are numerous beaches near El Nido, including Calaan, Marimegmeg, Seven Commandos, and Las Cabanas, which provide tranquil spots for swimming, sunset watching, and paddleboarding. The town’s location also makes it easy to access inland attractions such as Nagkalit-kalit Falls and the twin beaches of Nacpan and Calitang, just a short drive away.
On the north end of El Nido Town is the Town Square Heritage District, a newer, upscale development that includes trendy restaurants, cafes, shops, nightclubs and other services. We enjoyed huge juicy American style burgers at Fuego Proper Burgers, located on the second level of a shopping center. A mile south of El Nido Town, along Taytay El Nido National Highway, is the Pops District, a newer laid back pedestrian friendly hub, with direct street access to Corong Corong Beach. Here, visitors will find a diverse array of restaurants, cafes, shops, yoga studios, massage centers, and accommodations of all types. Many of the boat tours operate from the Pops District.
El Nido Tours – Most visitors to El Nido participate in pre-arranged tours—categorized as Tours A, B, C, and D, which take travelers to iconic spots via Philippine style bangka boats from either El Nido Town or the Pops District. Bangka boats are wooden boats with double outriggers, typically holding around 20 passengers. We had three full days in El Nido, which allowed us to take three tours (A, C and D). Numerous tour operators are located throughout El Nido, and tours can also be arranged online through sites such as Get Your Guide or Viator. We used a local tour operator, Ellen’s Travel and Tours, arranged by Guide to the Philippines. Ellen’s provided our daily transfers from our hotel to the tour office, and the boat service to all of the daily attractions. Each tour included a tour guide, boat operators, and provided water and a simple but delicious buffet lunch typically consisting of fish, chicken or pork, rice, fruit, and pancit – a Filipino noodle dish. The tours begin in the morning and end by the late afternoon. All of the tours offered the opportunity to snorkel, swim, kayak and use the beach. Nominal environmental fees are also collected by tour operators prior to the tour. The tour stops are subject to change depending on the weather conditions or crowds.
- Tour A: Tour A showcases some of the most iconic spots of El Nido, typically including Big Lagoon, Secret Lagoon, and Payong-Payong Beach on Miniloc Island. It also includes Shimizu Island, and Seven Commando Beach. The Secret lagoon on Miniloc Island was accessed by swimming through a small opening in a limestone cliff. The lagoon itself is a natural pool of turquoise colored water, enclosed by large rock walls. At Big Lagoon, we rented kayaks to reach the beautiful and serene teal colored lagoon surrounded by tall limestone cliffs.
- Tour B: Tour B is often less crowded than other tours, and features caves and beaches. Visitors will discover the stark limestone lines of Cathedral Caves and Cudugnon Cave, and enjoy stops at Snake Island, Entalula Island, and Pinagbuyutan Island.
- Tour C: Tour C includes stops at some of most popular beaches of El Nido, on Matinloc Island. These include Secret Beach and Hidden Beach, as well as the Matinloc Shrine, also known as the Shine of Our Lady of Matinloc (this stop requires an additional fee). Secret Beach is accessed by swimming through a small opening within a cliff to reach a beautiful small lagoon and beach. Hidden Beach is located within a narrow cove and is a haven for endangered clownfish. From the beach, I discovered some trails within an adjacent jungle covered with dense tangled vegetation, and towering trees, and I felt like I stepped into the scene of the film Tomb Raider. Another stop is Helicopter Island, which earned its name for its unique rock formations that give the island the appearance of a helicopter (missing the propeller) from a distance.
- Tour D: Tour D is one of the most popular in El Nido, and includes stops at beautiful beaches and lagoons, perfect for relaxing, swimming and snorkeling. There are five destinations, including Small Lagoon, Cadlao Lagoon, Paradise Beach, Bukal Beach and Pasandigan Beach. Both Small Lagoon and Cadlao lagoon are ringed by limestone rocks giving them a fortress-like vibe, and both are a great place to rent a kayak or snorkel. Pasandigan Beach is lined coconut trees and gigantic cliffs complimenting the turquoise water. We also made a stop at a location not on the official itinerary, Wonderland Beach Resort on Cadlao Island. This beautiful private resort is notable for its large statue of a female bust, and had an area where we could snorkel and swim.
Coron and the Calamian Islands
Coron is a paradise for nature lovers and adventure seekers alike, especially for those wishing to island hop or scuba. Similar to El Nido, the Coron region is known for its towering limestone cliffs, crystal-clear lakes, and vibrant coral reefs, offering some of the most breathtaking scenery in Southeast Asia. Coron is located in the northern part of Palawan. Specifically, it lies on Busuanga Island, which is part of the Calamian Islands group.
In addition to its natural beauty, Coron is renowned as a premier wreck-diving site. The area is home to several sunken Japanese warships from World War II, now covered in coral and teeming with marine life, making it a magnet for divers from around the world.
Coron Town – Coron Town is the commercial and tourist hub and lively gateway to some of the region’s most spectacular natural attractions. Visitors can also hike up Mt. Tapyas for panoramic views of the town and nearby islands or unwind at Maquinit Hot Springs after a long day of exploration. While modest in size, the town is bustling with activity, featuring a mix of tour operators, dive shops, souvenir stalls, restaurants, bars and cozy accommodations catering to travelers of all budgets. It serves as the main jumping-off point for island-hopping tours to nearby gems like Kayangan Lake, Twin Lagoon, and coral-rich snorkeling spots. The shabby port area can seem chaotic with its many operators and vendors, but the operators will get you safely and efficiently to your tour boat. At night, the narrow streets come alive with plenty of restaurants, bars, and coffee shops catering to both a local and international crowd. We especially enjoyed dinner at Gavin’s Kitchen and Bar, a popular spot where we had to wait about 30 minutes for a table. The wait was well worth it. I savored a huge portion of crispy chicken schnitzel, paired with gravy, fries and slaw.
Coron Attractions – Like El Nido, there are numerous tour operators that provide island hopping tours, with stops at beaches, lagoons, lakes and snorkeling sites. We took two separate tours over two days. Some of the highlights of our tours included:
- Kayangan Lake: One of its most iconic attractions near Coron is Kayangan Lake, often dubbed the cleanest lake in the Philippines, surrounded by dramatic karst landscapes and accessible via a short hike, up and down a series of stairs. Along the way is a nice viewpoint (often consisting of a long line of people) offering a postcard view of the harbor. This brackish lake offers water, a beautiful deep turquoise color and unique underwater formations.
- Twin Lagoon: Twin Lagoon is a unique dual-basin formation consisting of two serene lagoons separated by a rugged limestone barrier with a narrow passage navigable at low tide. There is also a ladder that can be used to access the inner lagoon during high tide. Tours generally rent kayaks to access the lagoon, however, I swam between the two.
- Barracuda Lake: Another must-see is Barracuda Lake, famous for its unique thermocline layers and surreal underwater cliffs and limestone formations. The thermal lake was formed within a volcanic crater, renowned for its clear waters. The lake features distinct layers of freshwater and saltwater, creating a noticeable temperature shift as you dive deeper.
- CYC Beach: One of the beach destinations for the tour is the CYC (Coron Youth Club) Beach. CYC Beach is located on a tiny uninhabited island, surrounded by crystal clear water and coral reefs. The beach has a picturesque view, decorated by rock formations, mangrove trees, and powdery white sand perfect for sunbathing.
- Skeleton Wreck: Skeleton Wreck is a popular snorkeling and diving site, featuring the remains of a World War II-era Japanse ship sunk by allied forces. The wreck lies in shallow water, about 16 feet below the surface, making it accessible to both divers and snorkelers.
- Malcapuya Island: Malcapuya Island is a small island consisting of white sandy beaches, and rocky cliffs. The island offers camping, and a few vendors selling items such as fresh coconut water and tasty roasted cashews. We also paid a small fee to snorkel above the amazing coral and sea life by hanging onto ropes outfitted on a bangka boat.
- Ditaytayan Island: This virtually undisturbed island is popular for its long white sandbar known to locals as “Long Beach,” one of the most photographed spots on the island. The island offers great vantage points, as well as gorgeous beaches.
- Banana Island: Banana Island (also known as Dicalabuan Island) is a beautiful small island that includes white sand beaches, azure clear waters, a small resort consisting of a series of cottages, a general store, shelter huts, hammocks, and lounge chairs. We had our lunch here, and afterward, it was a great place to relax and take in the view.
Puerto Princesa Subterranean River National Park
The Puerto Princesa Subterranean River National Park, located approximately 50 miles (1.5 hours) north of the city of Puerto Princesa, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the New Seven Wonders of Nature. This remarkable park features a five mile long underground river that flows directly into the South China Sea, making it one of the longest navigable underground rivers in the world.
Prior to our tour, we stayed overnight in Puerto Princesa. We were picked up at 7am for our 1.5 hour drive to the Sabang Boat terminal. The terminal is where tour guides check visitors in, and then wait for their boarding time. The area includes numerous restaurants, shops, ATM’s and other services. Visitors are then loaded onto bangka boats which take them to a beach leading to the park entrance. From the beach, it’s a short walk through a forest where visitors board a smaller boat taking them to the river and caves.
The river winds through a complex cave system adorned with stunning limestone karst formations, including massive chambers and intricate stalactites and stalagmites. Visitors are provided an audio guide that explains the history, formations and sights within the cave network. As darkness settles, the paddler’s headlight illuminates various parts of the cave, coordinated with the audio guide. Visitors will see large chambers, such as the Italian’s Chamber, one of the world’s largest. Other sights include limestone cliffs, rock formations shaped like fruits, religious figures, a T-Rex, and other animals. The river is also home to diverse wildlife, including colonies of bats, swiftlets, and freshwater crabs.
The park is also a haven for biodiversity. It is home to over 800 plant species and a variety of wildlife, including long-tailed macaques, monitor lizards, and numerous bird species, some of which are endemic to Palawan. After our boat tour, we saw numerous monkeys and large lizards. The surrounding forests represent eight of the thirteen forest types found in tropical Asia. The tour included a buffet lunch near the Sabang terminal. After lunch, we took a paddleboat tour through the Sabang Mangrove Forest. The 45 minute tour allows visitors to see up close hundreds of mangroves and learn about the flora and fauna that thrive in the area.
Food and Drink
All of the destinations in Palwan have a variety of restaurants of all budget ranges serving both local and international fare. Street food can also be found throughout the towns of Puerto Princesa, El Nido and Coron. Filipino cuisine is composed of foods of more than a hundred distinct ethnolinguistic groups found throughout the archipelago. It also uniquely draws inspiration from several outside influences, including Spanish, Chinese, Indian and Western. Filipino cuisine is generally distinguished by its bold combination of sweet, sour and salty flavors. Vinegar, soy sauce and garlic are common ingredients, and are used in dishes such as Adobo (meat marinated in vinegar, soy sauce, and garlic). Other common dishes such as sinigang (a tangy tamarind-based soup), lechon (roast pig), lumpia (eggrolls) and danggit (dried fish) highlight the depth and variety of Filipino cooking. Street food is also a vibrant part of the culture, with skewered meats, balut (fertilized duck egg), and sweet treats like halo-halo (a colorful shaved ice dessert). Rice is generally served with every meal.
Filipino drinks offer a mix of refreshing tropical flavors, traditional concoctions, and locally brewed spirits. Popular non-alcoholic options include buko juice (fresh coconut water), and calamansi juice (made from a native citrus fruit). The Philippines is known for its San Miguel beer, Tanduay rum, and lambanog, a strong coconut-based spirit traditionally distilled in rural areas.
Filipinos eat three main meals a day, including breakfast, lunch and dinner, and an afternoon snack known as meriénda, which usually includes pastries such as pandesal or ensaymada. Many hotels offer complimentary breakfast consisting of breads, pastries, garlic rice, sausages, fruit, and more.
Practical Tips
Best Time to Visit – Palawan is warm year round, with temperatures averaging between 81°F to 90°F. The dry season runs from November to May, with March to early May offering the best weather for island hopping. During this period, there are cooler northeast winds and less rainfall, and sea conditions are generally calm. This is also the high season, so accommodations and tours may be more expensive and crowded. The Wet Season lasts from June through October, characterized by higher humidity, and more frequent rain, especially in July and August. The weather will be rainier, with greater chances for monsoons.
What to Bring – Reef-safe sunscreen, a hat, sunglasses, water shoes, and dry bags are essentials for daily excursions. Visitors may also wish to bring their own snorkel gear, and a water-proof case for smartphones (especially when taking photos on the water). We found that at most tourist areas, vendors sell water shoes, camera bags, hats and dry bags.
Tipping – Tipping is not necessary, but it is appreciated, and should be given when receiving good service. Tipping can be given in dollars or Philippine Pesos. We typically tipped about $5 to $7 for an all day tour, and $1 for services such as carrying bags, or for transfer drivers.
Getting to Palawan
Air – There are airports in Puerto Princesa, El Nido and Coron. Each airport generally has flights to Manila, and air service is also provided between El Nido and Coron via Cebu Pacific Airlines.
Puerto Princesa has the largest airport on the island, Puerto Princesa International Airport (PPS). It is close to the city of Puerto Princesa, and has a new terminal with multiple lounges, restaurants and shops. Air service is provided to and from Manila, Cebu, Clark, and Iloilo. The airport is about five hours driving distance from El Nido.
El Nido’s airport, Lio Airport (ENI), is located about 4 miles north of town (15 minutes). Air service is provided to and from Manila, Clark, Cebu, Busuanga, Coron, Caticlan (Boracay), and Tagbilaran.
Coron’s airport, Francisco B. Reyes Airport (USU), has direct flights from major cities like Manila and Cebu, as well as flights to and from El Nido. From the airport, it’s about a 30 to 45-minute van ride to Coron Town.
Ferry – The primary ferry route to Palawan is from Manila to Puerto Princesa, with 2GO Travel being the main ferry operator. The journey typically takes around 13 hours. Other ferry options include routes from Manila to Coron, and from Puerto Princesa City to other locations within Palawan.
Getting Around Palawan
Vans – Tour operators often provide pick up / transfer service by vans, between hotels, airports and the towns. Some hotels may also offer complimentary van service to major destinations.
Motorized Tricycles – A fun and easy way to get around is by motorized tricycle, which is a motorcycle with an attached side car that can typically accommodate three to four persons. The cost is generally inexpensive. To get from our hotel to the center of town (a little over a mile) was typically about 150 Philippine pesos, or less than 3 dollars.
Motorbike rentals – These are a popular method of independent travel, where tourists can explore remote beaches and inland attractions at their own pace.