Last year, I spent time in Riga, the vibrant capital of the Baltic country of Latvia. I was pleasantly surprised by this beautiful city filled with breathtaking architecture, beautiful parks, vibrant and historic neighborhoods, fascinating museums, bustling markets, and delicious food. Nestled along the banks of the Daugava River, Riga is a city where medieval charm meets contemporary cool. The city boasts a rich history and a lively cultural scene. Whether you’re drawn to its UNESCO-listed Old Town, the stunning Art Nouveau district, or its bustling food markets, this Baltic treasure offers something for every traveler.
Riga’s History
Riga was originally settled by Livs, a Finnic tribe, during the early Middle Ages. It’s location on the Daugava River led it to be a Viking trade center, eventually attracting German traders and crusaders who forced Christianity on the pagan population. In 1282, Riga became a member of the Hanseatic League, a commercial and defensive network of merchant guilds and market towns in Central and Northern Europe. Later, Riga came under control of other territories through various wars, including the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth, Sweden, Germany and Russia.
Latvia became independent from Germany in 1918, but during World War II, it was occupied again by Germany before being absorbed into the Soviet Union. During this period, much of Riga’s historic center was heavily damaged. During the late 1980’s, when the Soviet Union introduced political and economic reforms known as glasnost, Latvia gained greater autonomy, and eventual full independence in 1991. Today, Riga has a population of just over 600,000 residents, nearly a third of the country’s population. The city is primarily made up of ethnic Latvians, Russians, Belarusians, Ukrainians and Poles. It is one of the key financial centers of the Baltic, as well as a major port, and tourism has begun to play a major role in the city’s economy.
Numerous attractions can be found in Riga’s various neighborhoods, which are listed below.
Old Town Riga
The heart of Riga lies in its Old Town (Vecrīga), a picturesque district of cobblestone streets, medieval churches, and historic landmarks. The Old Town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, noted for its 19th century wooden architecture, colorful Art Nouveau architecture, and bustling squares and charming cafes.
Dome Square – Start your visit to Old Town by visiting Dome Square, the heart of the city and largest square in Old Town. The square is surrounded by Riga Dome Cathedral and 19th century buildings. The Riga Dome Cathedral is the largest medieval church in the Baltic region. Built in 1211, this grand structure showcases a mix of Romanesque, Gothic, and Baroque styles. Be sure to listen to the magnificent organ, one of the most famous in Europe, and admire the cathedral’s beautiful stained-glass windows.
House of the Blackheads – One of Riga’s most iconic landmarks is the House of the Blackheads, a stunning architectural masterpiece built in the 14th century as a meeting place for the Brotherhood of Blackheads. The brotherhood was a Hanseatic guild of unmarried merchants and shipowners. The building’s ornate facade, adorned with intricate sculptures and astronomical motifs, showcases the opulence of the Hanseatic League era. The house was heavily damaged during World War II, but meticulously reconstructed to its former glory in the late 1990s. Today, it serves as a museum and cultural venue, offering visitors a glimpse into Riga’s past while standing as a proud symbol of resilience and craftsmanship.
St. Peter’s Church – For a great view of Riga, climb the baroque tower of St. Peter’s Church, a Gothic masterpiece built in 1209. From the top, you’ll be rewarded with breathtaking panoramic views of the Old Town, the Daugava River, and beyond. The church was once Europe’s tallest wooden tower prior to World War II.
Three Brothers – Within Old Town are three historic houses built adjacent each other, nicknamed Three Brothers. The homes are the oldest medieval dwelling houses in Riga, and a legend says that they were all built by three men of one family. The oldest brother was built in 1490 during a period when Riga established close links with Dutch merchants, influencing the architecture. The building is characterized with crow stepped gables and gothic decorations. The middle brother was built it 1646 and was considered a modern dwelling of the period with influences from Dutch Mannerism. The youngest brother was built in the late 17th century and is the smallest and narrowest of the three homes, built in a Baroque style.
Central District
The Central District is located east of the Old Town and Pilsētas Canal and was primarily developed during the late 19th century. The district is known for its monuments, parks, stunning Art Nouveau architecture, museums and theaters.
Bastejkalns Park – Heading east from Old Town along Kaļķu iela (Lime Street), stop for a leisurely visit or picnic at Bastejkalns Park which straddles both sides of the Pilsētas Canal. This beautiful park includes tree-lined paths and charming bridges. Swans and boats both glide through the canal, offering a bucolic backdrop.
Freedom Monument – On the east side of the canal and park, along Brīvības bulvāis (Freedom Boulevard) stands the Freedom Monument, a powerful symbol of Latvia’s independence. It honors the soldiers killed during the Latvian War of Independence between 1918 and 1920. The monument was unveiled in 1935 and stands nearly 140 feet high. It consists of a statue of a woman holding three stars representing the unity of Latvia’s historical regions. The monuments various sculptures and reliefs, arranged in thirteen groups, depict Latvian history and culture. During periods of Soviet occupation, the demolition of the monument was considered, but was never carried out. Today, the monument is a focal point of national pride and often serves as a site for public gatherings and celebrations. Visitors will also notice the guards of honor, soldiers of the Latvian Armed Forces, guarding the monument.
Riga Nativity of Christ Orthodox Church – Continuing past the monument is the largest Orthodox church in Latvia. The Nativity of Christ Orthodox Church was completed in 1884 and designed in a Neo-Byzantine style. The interior is decorated with Byzantine style frescoes and icons, as well as early Christian ornaments. An interesting fact is that during World War I, German troops turned the cathedral into a Lutheran church. In the 1960’s, during Soviet occupation, the cathedral was converted to a planetarium. Since Latvia’s independence in 1991, the cathedral has been restored, with new bells added in 2002.
Esplanade – Behind the Orthodox Church is the Esplanade, a large 22 acre park. This park includes numerous paths, gardens, a fountain, and statues of renowned writer Rainis and the Latvian army’s first commander-in-chief, Oskars Kalpaks. Also within the park is the Latvian Art Academy and the National Museum of Art. The museum houses over 52,000 works of art from between the 18th and 21st centuries.
The Corner House (KGB Museum) – A few blocks east of the Orthodox Church is the KGB Museum, also known as the Corner House. This museum, located at the corner of Brīvības and Stabu, offers a chilling insight into Latvia’s Soviet-era history. The museum is housed in the former headquarters of the Soviet secret police (KGB), The building originally housed apartments, shops, a music school, various government offices and the Latvian Revolutionary War Committee. It was converted to the KGB offices during Soviet occupation, primarily between 1944 through 1991. With time, the building gained the nickname “Corner House”. This was the place of interrogation and incarceration of Latvian citizens who the occupying regime considered to be enemies of the state. The KGB initiated 48 000 criminal cases for “anti-Soviet offences”. Visitors will learn about the brutal repression, surveillance, and persecution that Latvians faced under Soviet rule. We explored the various haunting rooms, including interrogation rooms, prison cells, and execution chambers, and learned about the KGB’s oppressive tactics and the impact of totalitarian rule on Latvian society.
Art Nouveau District – Riga is known for having one of the world’s largest collections of Art Nouveau architecture in the world, with over 800 buildings, mostly within the Central District. At the end of the 19th and beginning of the 20th centuries, when Art Nouveau was at its peak in popularity, Riga was experiencing an economic boom. During this time, the middle class used their acquired wealth to build imposing apartment blocks, and local architects adopted the Art Nouveau style that was popular at the time. One of the best places in Riga to appreciate this architecture is along Alberta Street, where intricately designed facades are adorned with floral motifs, mythical creatures, and sculptures. At the Art Nouveau Museum, visitors can view a perfectly preserved early 20th-century apartment.
Latgales District
The Latgales district is located along the right bank of the Daugava River, just south of Old Town. The area was initially settled during the medieval period, and the neighborhood is filled with old wooden homes. During the Nazi occupation of Riga, the neighborhood became a Jewish ghetto, and there are memorials on the site of the Greath Choral Synagogue and the Old Jewish Cemetery.
Riga Central Market – The most popular attraction in Latgales is the Riga Central Market, one of Europe’s largest and most unique markets that is a feast for the senses. Housed within five massive former Zeppelin hangars, the market is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The market offers a different specialized items within each pavilion, including fresh produce, smoked meats, dairy products, spices, baked goods, and seafood. Visitors can try different Latvian culinary delights. We feasted on pelmeni dumplings served with sour cream, and savory meat filled crepes. The Central Market is a must-visit for food lovers and culture seekers alike.
Āgenskalns District
Āgenskalns, located on the west bank of the Daugava River, was primarily built in the 19th and 20th centuries. Within the neighborhood are numerous examples of Art Nouveau architecture. The neighborhood also holds some of Riga’s most modern architecture, including glass towers near the Vanšu Bridge. One of the most popular attractions is the bustling Āgenskalns Market, established in 1898 and restored in 2022. It is located about a mile west of the river along Nometņu iela (Camp Street). The multi-level market offers produce, 70 food vendors, and 15 cafes and bars. Other uses include a second hand furniture and home accessory store, a book store, and various craft stores. On weekends, the market includes a flea market, and throughout the year, the market holds numerous festivals, cultural events and concerts.
A Taste of Latvian Food and Drink
Latvian cuisine is a hearty and flavorful blend of Baltic, Nordic, and Slavic influences, using seasonal and local ingredients. Traditional dishes often feature rye bread, potatoes, barley, cabbage, pork, and dairy products, reflecting the country’s agricultural heritage. One of Latvia’s most famous national dishes is grey peas with bacon (pelēkie zirņi ar speķi), often served with sour cream, and meant to symbolize prosperity. Another favorite iskarbonāde, a breaded pork cutlet similar to schnitzel. Other dishes include pelmeni with sour cream, borsch, stroganoff, and soups such as solyanka. Fresh fish is a staple, with smoked or pickled herring and salmon being quite common. Visitors of the many markets will be delighted to see stalls overflowing with homemade cheeses, wild mushrooms, and seasonal berries, such as strawberries, bilberries, and lingonberries that are used in Latvian desserts and jams. Other desserts include layered cakes, blueberry dumplings, pancakes and cottage cheese pie.
Latvia’s national drink is Riga Black Balsam, a dark, herbal liqueur made from a secret blend of 24 plants, roots, and spices, traditionally used for medicinal purposes. It’s often sipped straight or mixed into cocktails and coffee for a warming kick. Other popular drinks include beer, vodka, and birch sap. Don’t miss trying kvass, a mildly fermented drink made from rye bread, which is both refreshing and slightly sweet.
Getting Around Riga
Riga’s compact layout makes it easy for visitors to get around, either by walking, biking or using public transportation. The Old Town is pedestrian-friendly, with cobblestone streets, lively squares, and most major attractions located within close proximity.
For venturing beyond the Old Town, Riga offers a well-connected and affordable public transportation system. The city’s network of trams, buses, and trolleybuses operates from around 5:30 AM to midnight, with routes extending to all corners of the city. Trams provide an easy way to reach major activity areas, such as the Art Nouveau district, Central Market, and outlying neighborhoods. Tickets can be purchased from kiosks, mobile apps, or directly from the driver. Day passes are also available for unlimited travel.
Taxis and ride-hailing apps like Bolt and CityBee offer car share services. Users should use apps rather than hailing taxis off the street to avoid overpaying.
Bike rentals and electric scooters have become increasingly popular in Riga, and micromobility services provide for scooter or bicycle rentals. The city is investing in bike friendly infrastructure such as bike lanes.
