As my heart pounded, less than a minute after jumping into the warm clear water off the Philippine island of Cebu, I suddenly came face to face with a giant whale shark, the world’s largest fish. It’s wide flat head, small eyes and wide open mouth initially startled me before it slowly passed. The shark’s dark grey body, the size of a school bus, was covered with a canvas of beautiful patterns of white spots and stripes. I felt an overwhelming mix of shock, awe, excitement and humility. That moment would instantly etch itself into my memory.
Three hours earlier, I was in a van with my fellow travelers making our way from the provincial capital of Cebu City to Oslob, a small fishing village on the southeast coast of the island which is located in the central Visayas part of the country. We had arranged the whale shark swim tour as part of a larger expedition throughout this beautiful archipelago of over 7,000 islands, the birthplace of my late father.
Swimming with Whale Sharks is Oslob
Oslob is one of a handful of places throughout the world popular for swimming with whale sharks and has become one of the most reliable places to see them year-round. Known locally as tuki, they have coexisted and interacted with the local fishermen for many years. Other popular viewing locations include the Sea of Cortez in Mexico, the Galapagos Islands, Australia, the Maldives and Indonesia. While they are the world’s largest fish, these gentle giants don’t harm humans as they mostly feed off plankton.
We had left our hotel at three o’clock in the morning to reach Oslob just before sunrise, when the daily feeding of the sharks begins. Once we arrived, I was surprised to see over a hundred other tourists waiting to share the same experience. After filling out the necessary paperwork, taking a safety briefing and learning about local conservation efforts, we were provided life preservers and snorkel equipment before boarding our narrow wooden Bangka boat with about ten others.
Because we were on a pre-arranged tour, we were one of the first groups to go out. Our guides rowed us 150 meters from the shore where we would have thirty minutes to swim. It was like a race, as we watched a half dozen other filled boats doing the same. Once we reached our selected spot, we were told to jump in but reminded to stay about three meters away from the sharks. I donned my mask, snorkel and fins, then sat somewhat nervously on the edge of the boat before taking a deep breath and plunging in.
I cleared from the group, scanning the water and wondering, would this be a bust? Nothing prepares you for what comes next. Out of nowhere, a massive whale shark loomed into view, coming straight toward me. It gently glided by, with its tail, the length of my body, coming very close. It was my first time ever seeing a whale shark and I was entranced by its beauty as much as I was startled by its sheer size.
Whale sharks have broad and flat bodies and are typically twenty to thirty feet in length but can grow to over sixty feet. Their wide head and huge mouth can span more than four feet across, and their relatively small eyes are positioned toward the front corners of the head, giving them a gentle, almost curious expression. Their thick skin, up to four inches in places, consists of a dark gray to bluish back covered in a unique constellation of white spots and pale stripes. These patterns are as individual as human fingerprints and are often used by researchers to identify specific sharks. A powerful crescent-shaped tail propels them through the water with slow, steady movements, while their large pectoral fins help with balance and maneuvering.
Once I witnessed my first shark, my anxiety subsided, and I was desperately eager to see more. I wasn’t disappointed. Within moments, another gentle creature glided by, and then more. What was initially a startling experience became surprisingly peaceful as time seemed to slow down. Occasionally, their fins brushed very close to me. While told to keep a proper distance, it was sometimes impossible, yet each time, I would try to push myself backward. It is illegal to touch them, and if caught, a hefty fine can be incurred.
In total, I estimated five different sharks swam by during the time we were provided. It struck me how unfazed the sharks were given the amount of people in the water. I felt humble and small yet incredibly connected to them and the ocean.
Sadly, our time was up, and we were signaled back to the boat. Once on board, as we made our way back to shore, we excitedly chatted about the amazing experience we had collectively enjoyed, and how extraordinary it was to share space with the world’s largest fish in its natural habitat.
Understanding Whale Sharks
The whale shark is one of the most ancient shark species still living today, cruising the Earth’s oceans for millions of years. The biggest fish in the sea, a whale shark can weigh many tons and grow to more than sixty feet in length. It’s thought that less than 10 percent of whale sharks born survive to adulthood. For those that do, their lifespan is estimated to be between 80 and 130 years, with some living up to 150 years. They mostly inhabit tropical and warm water seas, often migrating thousands of miles seasonally to areas where plankton blooms are abundant.
Whale sharks are filter feeders, straining food from the water rather than hunting prey. Their diet consists mainly of plankton, krill, fish eggs, and small schooling fish. They draw in water though their massive mouths and filter out food through specialized gill rakers. Despite their size, they pose no threat to humans and are known for their calm, docile behavior.
Conservation and Responsible Tourism
Current estimates suggest a worldwide population of approximately 130,000 to 200,000, but their numbers have declined by 50 percent over the past 75 years. The conservation status of Whale Sharks is considered endangered, a classification from the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN) Red List, due to a population decline from threats like fishing, bycatch, ship strikes, habitat loss and climate change.
Tourism, when carefully managed, can play a positive role by raising awareness and supporting local conservation efforts and local economies. Oslob’s whale shark tourism is carefully regulated, with strict rules about distance, prohibition of sun cream and oils, group size, and no-touch policies. This ensures the animals remain stress-free, protected in their natural environment, and preserving these encounters for the future. In 1998, the Philippines banned all fishing, selling, importing, and exporting of whale sharks for commercial purposes. Harming them will result in fines and even imprisonment. The Whale Shark is even featured on the reverse side of the Philippine 100 peso bill.
When To Go
Oslob is one of the few places where swimming with whale sharks is possible year-round. The best time to visit is during the dry season (December through May) when seas are calmer and visibility is clearer. Most encounters take place early in the morning, typically between 6:00 and 10:00 a.m., when the water is smooth and the whale sharks are actively feeding near the surface.
Getting There
Cebu City is a major transportation hub. Most travelers arrive via Mactan–Cebu International Airport (MCIA), located on Mactan Island connected by a bridge to central Cebu City. It offers extensive links to other airports in the Philippines, and numerous international flights from across Asia and the Middle East.
From Cebu City, getting to Oslob can be arranged by a private driver or van for hire, or using a tour company. The travel time is three to four hours, requiring a very early morning departure. Budget travelers can take a bus from Cebu South Bus Terminal to Oslob, with frequent departures throughout the day, followed by a short tricycle ride to the whale shark interaction area.
Choosing a reputable tour operator ensures a safer, more ethical, and memorable experience. Our tour was arranged by Guide to the Philippines, who contracted with Cebu Trip Tours. The tour included transportation, lunch, and stops at other sights on Cebu Island. Alternatively, tours can be arranged through companies like Viator.
