Just an hour north of San Francisco is Sonoma County, one of my favorite regions of California. This huge diverse county offers something for everyone – rolling hills, hundreds of vineyards, towering redwood forests, rugged coastlines, quaint and historic towns, farm to table cuisine, and a fascinating history documented in numerous museums.
Sonoma is sometimes seen as the quieter cousin to nearby Napa Valley, yet it has created its own identity—a region where the pace is slower, the landscapes more varied, and the experiences deeply rooted in both land and tradition. There are more than 400 wineries and 60,000 acres of vineyards. Yet, visitors quickly discover that this isn’t just wine country; it’s a diverse destination blending world-class vineyards, farm-to-table cuisine, cultural heritage, and breathtaking natural scenery, including over 55 miles of coastline that includes deserted sandy beaches, steep cliffs, and turquoise coves.
Sonoma County’s rich history reflects the cultural influences of Native peoples, Spanish colonization, Mexican rule, and American settlement. In the early 1800s, the Spanish established Mission San Francisco Solano in the town of Sonoma, which marked the beginning of European settlement. Following Mexican independence from Spain in 1821, the mission was secularized, and large tracts of land were granted as ranchos. General Mariano Vallejo, a key figure in Sonoma’s history, oversaw the region during this period, building the town of Sonoma into an important Mexican military and administrative outpost.
In 1846, American settlers staged the Bear Flag Revolt in Sonoma, declaring California an independent republic for a brief time before it was annexed by the United States. After statehood in 1850, Sonoma County grew quickly, attracting settlers with its fertile soil and mild climate. By the late 19th and early 20th centuries, Sonoma had become a hub for winemaking, which lasts to this day.
Visitors can stay in one part of the county while exploring the many attractions, or move from place to place. Santa Rosa and Windsor offer good central locations for an extended stay. I recently spent a week in Sonoma County, and have noted my favorite places to explore, starting in the south, and moving clockwise to the north.
Petaluma
The charming city of Petaluma is in the southern part of Sonoma County, nestled on the Petaluma River. The quaint downtown is filled with iron-front architecture, boutiques, antique shops, restaurants, coffee shops, cultural facilities and plenty of Victorian and craftsman style homes. Petaluma was recently named by CNN as one of the top 10 best towns to visit. It was also the film location for the 1973 film American Graffiti because of its All-American small town aesthetics. The walkable riverfront is where the city bustled during the mid 19th century Gold Rush, when the river carried products to support the rapidly growing population. Today, the river is a popular place for kayaking, paddleboarding and boating. The city hosts an American Graffiti classic car show every May. Petaluma was once known as the “Egg Capital of the World” thanks to its agricultural roots, and this heritage is celebrated at the Butter & Egg Days Parade and festival which draws crowds with lively floats, bands, arts and crafts and live music.
Our first stop was lunch at Water Street Bistro, which makes French inspired sandwiches, quiches, salads and entrees using fresh local ingredients. Later, we picked up some pies to go at Petaluma Pie Company which makes both savory and sweet pies. We then explored the downtown area, observing the 19th century architecture, the Spanish style Saint Vincent de Paul Church, leafy parks, and beautiful homes. We stopped at the Petaluma Historical Library & Museum, which tells the story of the town’s agricultural and architectural legacy, housed within a former Carnegie library.
Bodega Bay
About 25 miles northwest of Petaluma is Bodega Bay, famous for the setting of the 1963 Alfred Hitchcock classic film The Birds. Bodega Bay really is a bird watching paradise, attracting a wide variety of bird species including migratory birds. This quaint fishing village is perched along the rugged Pacific coastline, offering a peaceful setting and stunning beauty. Fans of the movie will want to stop at some of the iconic film locations, such as the Tides restaurant and the drive around Bodega Harbor along Westshore Road. Two other film spots, Saint Teresa of Avila Church, and the Potter schoolhouse, are both in the nearby inland town of Bodega.
The harbor bustles with fishing boats and seafood restaurants, serving up the day’s freshest catch. We opted for lunch higher up, at the Birds Café, which provides a stunning view over the harbor. While chowing down on clam chowder and fish and chips, we looked out over the bay toward Bodega Head, which was our next stop.
Bodega Head is located across the bay and is comprised of a dramatic bluff that juts out into the Pacific Ocean and offers some of the most breathtaking coastal views in Northern California. The geological features around the head were shaped by seismic activity of the adjacent San Andreas Fault over millenniums. We hiked a series of trails along the coastal cliffs overlooking the crashing surf, hidden coves, and rocky outcroppings. In winter and spring, Bodega Head is a prime whale-watching spot. The area is also rich in birdlife, making it a favorite for nature enthusiasts.
Sonoma Coast State Park
Sonoma Coast State Park is located about five miles north of Bodega Bay on Pacific Coast Highway (Highway 1), stretching along the rugged coastline toward the Russian River. The park is known for its dramatic cliffs, windswept bluffs and breathtaking views of the Pacific Ocean at nearly every turn along the highway. Heading north, our first stop was Duncan’s Landing Overlook which provided an exceptional view toward the many coastal outcroppings. The park has numerous and expansive sandy beaches, such as Wright’s Beach and Blind Beach. We braved the extreme wind at Goat Rock beach, near the mouth of the Russian River. It is known for the massive Goat Rock, an iconic outcrop attached to the mainland by a narrow isthmus. It is home to a colony of harbor seals, as well as elephant seals, sea lions and river otters. Goat Rock Beach was used for the final scene of the 1985 cult move The Goonies, where the Inferno ship was seen sailing away. Throughout the park, visitors can explore miles of hiking trails that weave through coastal forests, grasslands, and hills covered with wildflowers, while looking out toward the Pacific Ocean.
Fort Ross
North of Sonoma Coast State Park, visitors can explore a uniquely historic Russian settlement in California. Fort Ross was established by the Russian-American Company in 1812 for the purpose of producing agriculture to support the Russian fur trading industry further north in Alaska. The fort was home to Russian settlers as well as Native Alaskans, local Kashaya Pomo people, and a mix of other nationalities. While the fort was abandoned by the Russians in 1841, its preserved buildings offer a glimpse into this little-known chapter of California history. We walked through a restored stockade, Russian Orthodox chapel, and the Rotchey house, the only surviving original structure from the settlement. The visitors center includes historical exhibits and artifacts, as well as stories of the people who lived and worked there. We hiked to a secluded and scenic beach, once used by supply ships, where migrating whales are often spotted. Special events like the annual Fort Ross Festival, feature Russian folk music, dancing, and traditional crafts.
Salt Point State Park
Salt Point State Park, located along Highway 1 about 30 minutes north of Fort Ross, contains a remarkable blend of rugged coastline, towering bluffs, and peaceful forested areas. The area is known for its dramatic rocky shoreline of unique geological formations, including extensive pink sandstone outcrops. The sandstone from Salt Point was used in the construction of San Francisco’s streets and buildings during the mid-1800s. Visitors can explore over 20 miles of trails that wind through cypress groves, redwood forests, and coastal terraces. Gerstle Cove is a popular spot for swimmers and snorkelers. The road off Highway 1 to the Gerstle Cove Campground leads to Gerstle Cove and the Salt Point Trail trailhead. Just south of the park is Ocean Cove Bar and Grill where we stopped for lunch with a breathtaking coastal view.
Guerneville and the Russian River Valley
Head back south, and inland along Highway 116, you’ll reach the Russian River Valley, an area known for its scenic beauty of rolling vineyards, forests, and the meandering Russian River. The river is popular for kayaking, canoeing, swimming, and lazy summer floats. Most of the activity is in Guerneville, a laid-back and eclectic resort town which winds through the valley along the Russian River surrounded by redwood forests. Guerneville is especially popular with outdoor adventurers and the LGBTQ+ community. The center of town has a wide array of restaurants, shops, antique stores, coffee shops, wine tasting shops and resorts. We had an excellent brunch at Pat’s International which has been serving the community since 1940. The homey restaurant serves American style food in a hybrid diner-lodge style setting, complete with mounted deer heads adorned on the wall. Nearby is Johnson’s Beach, a historic riverfront spot where visitors can lay out, swim, go tubing or rent kayaks, canoes and paddle boards.
A few miles west of Guerneville is Duncans Mills Village, a small collection of shops, restaurants, bakeries, antique stores, art galleries and more within historic western style buildings spanning both sides of Highway 116. We especially enjoyed the Christopher Queen Galleries which has an expansive collection of Early California paintings and artwork by award winning contemporary artists.
The Russian River Valley wine region is famous for its cool-climate varietals like Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. There are numerous local tasting rooms and vineyards, and we stopped at Korbel Champagne Cellars, one of Sonoma County’s most celebrated wineries, located on River Road. Founded in 1882, Korbel has been producing its signature California Champagne for more than a century. Visitors can enjoy tastings as well as tour the winery to learn about the méthode champenoise process.
Armstrong Woods
Armstrong Redwoods State Natural Reserve, just a few minutes north of Guerneville, is a breathtaking sanctuary of towering coastal redwoods. It’s a reminder of what much of this area of California looked like prior to logging operations which began in the mid 19th century. The forest preserves stately Sequoia sempervirens, also known as the coast redwood. Some of these majestic trees soar over 300 feet high. Visitors can explore the cathedral-like atmosphere on a network of trails that wind through the peaceful grove. Trails range from easy strolls along the one-mile long round trip Pioneer Nature Trail to longer hikes connecting to Austin Creek State Recreation Area. The Colonel Armstrong Tree is the oldest in the grove, estimated to be over 1,400 years old, while the Parson Jones Tree is the tallest at over 310 feet. The preserve includes a picnic area, restrooms and visitor center.
Healdsburg
From Guerneville, head east on River Road and then north on Westside Road which leads to Healdsburg. Feel free to stop at any of the numerous wineries along the way. Healdsburg is my favorite town in Sonoma County, and northern California for that matter. This charming and sophisticated small town blends a laid-back wine country atmosphere with upscale dining, boutique shopping, and a thriving arts scene. The downtown is centered around the lovely and lively Healdsburg Plaza. Adjacent streets are filled with tasting rooms, galleries, and farm-to-table restaurants. Healdsburg is rich with culture, with numerous galleries, the Healdsburg Center for the Arts, the Tuesday Farmers Market, and annual events like the Healdsburg Jazz Festival, the Healdsburg International Short Film Festival, the Healdsburg Arts Festival and Dia de Muertos.
Healdsburg is known for its culinary scene, home to acclaimed restaurants like SingleThread, a three-Michelin-star dining experience that highlights Sonoma’s seasonal bounty. We started off an evening at Duke’s Spirited Cocktails. The Prohibition inspired setting offers locally inspired, inventive artisanal cocktails, along with wines, and beers. We then had dinner at Spoonbar, located inside the h2hotel. The restaurant’s beautiful décor is hip, contemporary, and inviting, with an open large glass wall that opens to a sidewalk café during warm weather. It serves farm-fresh California cuisine with dishes like heirloom tomato panzanella, white corn soup, tomato risotto, and hokkaido scallops. The Healdsburg Bar and Grill is a moderately priced restaurant which has outdoor dining and serves brunch, handhelds, fried chicken and a large selection of beers.
Santa Rosa
From Healdsburg, head south to Santa Rosa, the largest city in Sonoma County, serving as the gateway to the famed surrounding wine country. Santa Rosa’s downtown area is lively and walkable, with a mix of boutique shops, cafes, art galleries, and restaurants showcasing local flavors. There are two popular attractions worth visiting in Santa Rosa, including the Charles M. Schulz Museum, and the Pacific Coast Air Museum.
Fans of the Peanuts comic strip won’t want to pass up the Charles M. Schulz Museum, dedicated to the life and legacy of the beloved creator. Visitors can explore original comic strips, personal artifacts, and rotating exhibits. Exhibits highlight the evolution of Peanuts characters, including Charlie Brown, Snoopy, Lucy, and Linus. The museum’s design reflects a playful, welcoming spirit, and an adjacent sculpture garden features life-sized statues of iconic characters.
The Pacific Coast Air Museum houses a collection of over 30 vintage military and civilian aircraft, offering an immersive experience for aviation enthusiasts. The collection includes military and civilian aircraft, ranging from vintage World War II planes to modern jets, all located outside adjacent to the Charles M. Schulz – Sonoma County Airport. We were able to explore the intricately restored aircraft up close, learning about their historical significance, technological innovations, and the pilots who flew them. The museum hosts special events, air shows, and educational programs for students and aviation fans. We happened to stop in on Hot Dog Thursday, when the museum was offering free hot dogs, chips and soda to visitors . As a military veteran, I was also provided free entry.
Sebastopol
Near Santa Rosa is Sebastopol, a small town that has two attractions worth exploring. Our first stop was Florence Avenue, located a few blocks west of the downtown and Main Street. Here, most of the front yards of homes along three blocks contain funky metal artwork created by Patrick Amiot and his wife Brigitte Laurent. The sculptures were created from old found objects such as cars, cookware and trash cans. Visitors will be both intrigued and delighted at the diverse creations, such as Star Trek themed sculptures, the Mad Hatter, a Taco Truck, the wicked witch of the west, and a rocket carrying an astronaut dog. On the north end of town is the Barlow, a lively open air market place that has a variety of merchants and restaurants located within a walkable four block area. Visitors will enjoy the many options, including wine tasting rooms, art galleries, a glass studio, coffee shops and bakeries, boutiques, and brew pubs. We enjoyed delicious organic coffee and French pastries at the Sarmentine Artisan Boulanger, located adjacent a lively square with a playground for the kids.
Sonoma
Head south along picturesque Highway 12 to the town of Sonoma, which lies at the southern end of Sonoma County. The surrounding area is home to dozens of world-class wineries like Buena Vista Winery, founded in 1857 and considered California’s first premium winery. As we made our way along the highway, we passed numerous wineries as well as the Sonoma Botanical Garden which features 1,500 species including Asian and California native plants.
We started out with brunch at the Creekside Café, just off Highway 12. The homey no frills restaurant offers various types of scrambles and eggs benedict, Huevos Rancheros, Huevos con Chorizo, and a lunch menu featuring salads, sandwiches and burgers.
We then moved to the center of town, where we spent time at the attractive Sonoma Plaza which is surrounded by boutique shops, galleries, tasting rooms, and farm-to-table restaurants. The plaza is the largest town square in California and was the site of the Bear Flag Revolt in 1846, when California briefly declared independence from Mexico. Adjacent the plaza is Mission San Francisco Solano, the northernmost of California’s 21 missions. It provides a glimpse of early 19th-century mission life and is part of the larger Sonoma State Historic Park. We walked less than a mile to the Vallejo House, which is part of the park. It was built in 1850 and was the home of General Mariano Guadalupe Vallejo. He was the commander of the northern Mexican frontier, founder of the Pueblo of Sonoma, and a member of the first Constitutional Convention of California.
Getting To and Around Sonoma County
Sonoma County is located just north of San Francisco and is easily accessible by several routes. From the Bay Area, Sonoma County can be reached via U.S. Highway 101, which runs north through Marin County into Santa Rosa, or by taking the scenic Highway 1 along the coast for a slower but breathtaking drive.
For those flying in, the Charles M. Schulz–Sonoma County Airport (STS) in Santa Rosa offers direct flights from 12 western U.S. cities. Alternatively, travelers can fly into San Francisco International Airport (SFO), Oakland International Airport (OAK), or Sacramento International Airport (SMF), all within a two-hour drive.
Once in Sonoma County, getting around is best done by car, as the region is spread out. Getting to the numerous wineries, small towns, and scenic areas are most easily accessed by driving. Rental cars are available at the airports, and having your own vehicle allows the flexibility to explore at your own pace. For those who prefer not to drive, there are wine tour companies and shuttle services that provide transportation between wineries, as well as ride-hailing options in the larger towns like Santa Rosa, Petaluma, and Healdsburg. Cycling is another popular way to experience the countryside, especially on quieter backroads and through vineyard-dotted valleys.
Public transportation options exist, though they are limited compared to urban areas. Sonoma County Transit operates buses connecting towns within the county. The Sonoma-Marin Area Rail Transit operates the SMART train which runs between Larkspur in Marin County and Windsor.