Spokane is the hub of the Pacific Northwest’s Inland Empire. This growing city is known for its scenic location surrounded by mountains, prairies, lakes and forests. It has much to offer including beautiful neighborhoods, historic buildings, great parks, stunning waterfalls and great restaurants and hotels.
I first visited Spokane, nicknamed the Lilac City, back in the early 1990’s, fresh out of college, on a business trip. Back then, Spokane was hardly on anyone’s radar, and Seattle was the “It” city in the Pacific Northwest. Spokane was the less populated, regional center for eastern Washington, part of what is known as “The Inland Empire”, which also encompasses parts of Idaho and western Montana. Spokane’s fame was that it had been the host city for Expo 74, the first environmentally themed world’s fair. It was a nice city with a lot to offer even back then, but its secret hadn’t yet gotten out. Today, Spokane seems to be on a lot of people’s radar, especially people escaping the excessive growth, traffic and home prices of much larger west coast cities such as Los Angeles, Seattle and Portland. Based on the 2020 census, Spokane is among the fastest growing cities in the U.S., and, home prices are increasing as well (up over 60 percent over the past two years). The COVID pandemic has only increased the number of new transients looking to escape the ills of their former homes, and long time residents are nervous about what this latest growth spurt will bring.
Spokane has gone through booms and busts in the past. The city was originally a small fur trading post established in 1810, in the area occupied by the Spokane Tribe. In 1881, the Northern Pacific Railway reached the city, bringing the first real wave of European settlement. In 1883, the discovery of nearby gold, silver and lead brought prospectors, followed by more waves of migration throughout the late 19th century and early 20th century. After mining began to lag, the area stagnated and other industries such as logging and agriculture became more prominent to the region. Recessions in the late 20th century led to a decline of the local economy, including manufacturing. The city began to transition to a more service based economy, including medical and health sciences, and new jobs lead to revitalization, especially in the downtown area. This revitalization is part of what is fueling the region’s latest growth.
Spokane is an outdoor enthusiast’s dream. It is set in a scenic setting with conifer covered hills and mountains to the north and east, and rolling wheat covered hills of the Palouse to the south. It’s downtown is banked on the majestic waterfalls of the Spokane River and there are dozens of beautiful lakes nearby. There are five ski resorts within a one hour drive, and all four seasons put on a beautiful display. There are trails throughout the city for hiking, running and biking.
For urbanites, there are museums, a total of 28 microbreweries, good restaurants, coffee shops and bars, art galleries, universities and cool neighborhoods. And traffic is still manageable.
I’ve visited Spokane a number of times since the early 90’s, and most recently, in early 2022, to sell an investment property I’ve owned on Spokane’s South Hill for nearly twenty years. It was a chance to check out the places I’m familiar with, along with some new places. Here are my lists of places to any visitor should check out.
Downtown Spokane
Spokane’s downtown is very lively, unlike many medium sized cities. The downtown is primarily between the Spokane River on the north, and Interstate 90 on the south. Its character is a mix of older historic buildings as well as newer architecture, yet there are only a few tall buildings hovering around twenty stories. Downtown is home to a Nordstrom department store, which most cities would be envious of. Riverpark Square is a large urban mall that includes shops, restaurants and a theater on multiple levels. The downtown is very walkable, and filled with both chain and independent restaurants, brew pubs, stores, cafes and hotels. Riverfront Park is built along the south bank of the Spokane River and includes trails, public art and sculptures, and many other amenities (See below). One other unique aspect of downtown is its skywalk system which allows pedestrians the ability to access the downtown grid and buildings within warm facilities during the cold Spokane winters. Make sure to check out the beautiful and historic Davenport Hotel.
Recreation
The elaborate, cherished park system, including Riverfront Park, along the Spokane River today is a result of an effort in the early 1970’s to clean up the old rail yards in preparation for World’s Fair. Today there are hundreds of acres of park throughout the City and along the river, as well as an elaborate trail system from all directions tying into the downtown area.
Riverfront Park – Riverfront Park has loads of activities, including numerous trails and picnic areas, various locations for viewing the upper and lower Spokane Falls and outdoor sculptures. Other amenities include the Numerica SkyRide which allows visitors to view the falls by gondola, a clock tower, roller skating and skate boarding area facilities, a children’s playground, carousel, and café.
Spokane Falls – The Spokane Falls have been a place of gathering for centuries. The Spokane Tribe gathered at the falls for fishing, celebrating, and holding ceremonies. In the 1880’s, settlers began using the power of the falls for creating electricity. The area around the falls became heavily industrialized and concentrated with rail tracks, and inaccessible, but in the 1970’s, the industry and tracks were largely removed to create an attractive location for the World’s Fair. Since then, the area surrounding the falls has been turned into Riverfront Park. There are multiple locations for viewing the falls, including from promenades and viewing platforms throughout the park, the Skyride gondola, a pedestrian suspension bridge, and the Monroe Street and Post Street bridges. The falls are strongest from March through May, due to mountain snow runoff.
Manito Park – Beautiful Manito Park is located south of downtown, in the older established South Hill neighborhood. The 78 acre park is heavily wooded, and includes various gardens including a lilac garden, rose garden, Japanese garden and perennial garden. The park also includes a conservatory and duck pond, manicured lawns, playgrounds, and numerous walking trails.
Northwest Museum of Arts and Culture
Located in the Browne’s Addition neighborhood, the Northwest Museum of Arts and Culture includes five galleries, a gift shop, café and education center. The galleries include art, the history of the inland part of Washington state, and a history of the native American tribes that originally inhabited the area. Its collection of Plateau Indian art and artifacts is the largest in the world. A part of the museum is the adjacent Campbell mansion, a large 13,000 square foot Tudor style home that was built in 1898.
Neighborhoods
Brown’s Addition – Browne’s Addition is Spokane’s oldest neighborhood, located just west of downtown, and is filled with a mix of housing and uses, including Victorian mansions, craftsman and bungalow homes, and modern apartment buildings. A commercial district is located at the intersection of W. Pacific Avenue and S. Cannon Street, and includes a bakery, coffee shops and number of restaurants specializing in everything from Italian to Mexican. Beautiful Coeur d’Alene Park is reminiscent of a small town square with its many trees, lawn area, and gazebo at its center. The neighborhood is the home of the Northwest Museum of Arts and Culture, the historic Campbell Mansion, and the famous Patsy Clark Mansion.
South Hill – South Hill is a huge neighborhood located south of downtown, which encompasses smaller neighborhoods, each with their own architectural character, and some with their own commercial districts. At its center is beautiful Manito Park. Other parks include Edwidge Woldson Park, Cliff Park, Cannon Hill Park, and Grant Park. South Hill is where you’ll find some of Spokane’s older and larger homes, ranging from Victorian to Tudor. Beautiful canopied boulevards such as Rockwood Boulevard, Grand Boulevard and Southeast Boulevard are lined with beautiful homes.
Kendall Yards –The Kendall Yards is a newly developed, sustainable designed neighborhood located on the north bank of the Spokane River, where a former rail yard was located. The community has been designed to maximize views toward downtown Spokane, the Spokane River, and Spokane Falls, and includes mixtures of housing styles, a commercial zone with restaurants, cafes and shops, a night market, open spaces and recreation areas and multi-use trails overlooking the river.
Coeur d’Alene – While not a Spokane neighborhood, Couer d’Alene is an attractive resort city in the Idaho Panhandle, only 30 minutes east of Spokane via Interstate 90. Coeur d’Alene sits at the north end of huge Lake Couer d’Alene. The City has a sizable and diverse downtown with plenty of restaurants and shopping, a public beach, beautiful parks, and the massive Coeur d’Alene resort and marina. From here, you can drive around the lake, or to other resort towns and lakes such as Sand Point, and Lake Pend Oreille.
Restaurants
Frank’s Diner – This unique and inexpensive restaurant housed in an old train car on the west edge of downtown serves massive portions of homestyle breakfast, lunch and dinner. The meatloaf is very good. There are historic artifacts within the restaurant including old photographs of the original train, as well as historic photographs of Spokane. 1516 W. 2nd Avenue
Tavolata – This chic moderately priced restaurant is located in the historic Old City Hall building, and includes a dining room, bar, and patio. We loved the Pecorino Romano cheese filled croquettes served with a sun dried tomato aioli. Entrees include various pastas, gnocchi, and meat and chicken dishes. 221 N. Wall Street
Mole Restaurant – Located in the Kendall Yards neighborhood north of downtown, this moderately priced Mexican restaurant focuses on Oaxacan cuisine, with a variety of mole dishes, as well as seafood, ceviche, traditional Mexican and vegetarian dishes. 1335 W. Summit Parkway
Coffee
Rocket Bakery – This coffee shop is located on the west edge of downtown and serves homemade bakery items and coffee drinks. Very friendly baristas. 1325 W. 1st Avenue
First Avenue Coffee – This contemporary designed coffee shop in downtown serves 10 organic coffees, teas, and bakery items. It is known for their homemade doughnuts made daily. 1011 1st Avenue
Bars
The Peacock Room – This beautiful lounge / bar is located in the historic Davenport Hotel. It is Spokane’s place to see and be seen. The bar is covered in a 5,000 piece stained glass ceiling with the image of a peacock. The bar is known for its various martinis, custom cocktails and also serves food. 10 S. Post Street