I recently spent a week in beautiful and rugged DownEast Maine, including some time on Mount Desert (pronounced ‘dessert’) Island, and Acadia National Park, known as the Crown Jewel of the North Atlantic Coast. This region of Maine offers spectacular natural scenery, breathtaking views, diverse hiking trails, quaint small towns, great shopping, and delicious food, especially the famous Maine lobster.
Mount Desert Island is the largest island off the coast of Maine and the second largest (behind Long Island, New York) on the eastern seaboard of the United States. The unique geography of the island, including its elongated lakes, boulders and rounded mountain tops, was formed by enormous glaciers over millions of years. The six mile long, linear shaped Somes Sound inlet essentially separates the island into eastern and western halves.
Originally inhabited by the Wabanaki people thousands of years ago, the island was later explored and settled by the French, and later the British, before becoming part of colonial America. Today, the island is one of the most popular tourism sites in the US. Mount Desert Island and Acadia are popular year round. The most popular period, during summer, offers activities such as swimming, fishing, hiking, biking. The fall is popular with the splendid foliage, and activities such as cross country skiing and snow shoeing are popular during winter.
We rented a quaint two bedroom cottage on the Blue Hill peninsula, west of the island, through AirBnB, which we used as a base to visit Mount Desert and Acadia, along with areas to the west including Penobscot Bay and the Blue Hill peninsula.
Acadia National Park
Acadia National Park had been on my bucket list for a long time, as this national treasure contains some of the most stunning scenery on the Eastern Seaboard. The park is abundant with granite domes, cliffs, mountains, forests, pristine lakes, and cobblestone and sand beaches offering stunning views of the Atlantic. Early risers will be among the first to see the sunrise in the country.
Acadia was established by Woodrow Wilson in 1916 with an initial 6,000 acres. The park was the first national park established east of the Mississippi River and was largely financed by John D. Rockefeller Jr. and other wealthy private citizens. Today it is one of the most visited parks in the country, attracting more than 3 million visitors annually. It has grown to encompass over 49,000 acres, covering nearly half of Mount Desert Island as well as a portion of the Schoodic peninsula, and the smaller Isle au Haut. Unfortunately, we only had time to explore the area of the park within Mount Desert Island.
The park’s series of trails and carriage roads provide multiple opportunities for seeing the many sites. The 45 miles of crushed stone carriage roads were initiated by John D. Rockefeller as a way for visitors to tour by horse and carriage. The roads, made of stone quarried from granite on the island, meander through woodlands, around lakes and ponds, and those at higher elevations offer spectacular views of the Atlantic.
Getting Around Mount Desert and Acadia – The Loop Road is the most common way that people get around Acadia to visit some of the most popular sites. The majority of the 27 mile road is one-way (clockwise), beginning near Bar Harbor, and then traverses along the coast before continuing inland toward Cadillac Mountain and Jordan Pond.
The Island Explorer is a fare free bus service that operates several bus routes between late June and early October, connecting most of the major sites within the park, and the towns of Bar Harbor, Northeast Harbor, and Southwest Harbor. The bus service allows for leashed pets and includes bicycle racks.
Sand Beach and Beyond – South of Bar Harbor, the Loop Road reaches the coast at Sand Beach, located on the southeast corner of Mount Desert Island. The beach is one of the best places to swim within the park, as it’s protected by the Great Head peninsula that forms Newport Cove. From the beach, we hiked up to the Great Head trail, affording breathtaking views of the beach and Newport Cove.
The drive south, between Sand Beach and Hunters Head, is marked with a rocky shore carved by wind and water over millions of years. Along the way, you’ll see Thunder Hole, where waves rush into a narrow slot in the rocks, forcing air trapped at the back of the chasm to compress and make a thundering sound. The best time to visit is a couple hours before high tide, when the water can splash up to 40 feet in the air. We continued south to more scenic vantage points, including Boulder Beach, Otter Cliff overlook, and Otter Point overlook, all of which offer a different view. Otter Cliff is a popular spot for rock climbers, as it stands 110 feet above the ocean.
Jordan Pond – Pristine Jordan Pond is located north of Seal Harbor and west of Cadillac Mountain and is a favorite spot for canoeing and kayaking. The pond was formed during the last glacial period when the Wisconsin Ice Sheet began to melt, and has been a popular recreation spot since the mid 19th century. The pond covers 187 acres, and has a depth of up to 150 feet. At the north end of the pond are two small peaks rising nearly 900 feet, known as North Bubble and South Bubble. The peaks are accessible by trails from the Bubbles parking lot. Bubble Rock, a large boulder that was carried by glaciers, sits balanced on South Bubble. We hiked the trail around the pond, taking in the views of the surrounding granite mountains.
A popular activity at Jordan Pond is a stop at the Jordan Pond House restaurant to savor their famous popovers served with strawberry jam and butter. The restaurant also serves lunch, afternoon tea and dinner. The restaurant is located on the south end of Jordan Pond near a large parking area. Make sure you make a reservation early, as the openings fill up quickly.
Cadillac Mountain – From Jordan Pond, we drove up to the summit of Cadillac Mountain, the most popular spot in Acadia. Rising 1,500 feet above sea level, Cadillac Mountain is the tallest mountain on the US Atlantic coast and offers expansive and breathtaking views of the ocean and the many offshore islands. Many people make the early trek to catch the sunrise. The Cadillac Summit loop is a 0.3 mile trail, allowing an easy 30 minute hike with incredible sweeping views.
Between May 25 and October 22, vehicle reservations are required to access the mountain via Cadillac Summit Road, and can be made for the sunrise, or for daytime slots.
Pets at Acadia – Acadia National Park is a great place to bring your dog. Most of the trails allow pets, but they must be leashed. The park offers 100 miles of hiking trails and carriage roads where pets are permitted. Areas of the park that prohibit pets are listed here.
Bar Harbor
Picturesque Bar Harbor is the largest town on Mount Desert Island, and the primary hub for Acadia National Park. It’s situated on the east side of the island, and is known for its beautiful views, quaint downtown, large homes, and lobster restaurants. Originally named Eden, Bar Harbor was the first established village on Mount Desert Island, in 1761. It began as a colonial fishing and lumber village before becoming a summer getaway for the wealthy, artists, and naturalists. Some of its early residents included John D. Rockefeller, J.P. Morgan and Cornelius Vanderbilt. The town has many historic homes and cottages that once belonged to these famous families and others. Between May and October, the town is a port for many cruise ships, bringing more than 200,000 people to the town.
Bar Harbor is where you’ll find many of the hotels, restaurants, tourist activities and other services that cater to visitors of Mount Desert Island. It’s a great place to catch a scenic boat tour or go whale watching, or attend the Bar Harbor Music Festival. Various tours, including boat tours, bike tours and food tours can be purchased through Viator.
Northeast Harbor
The small, sleepy hamlet of Northeast Harbor is situated on the south side of Mount Desert Island, on the east side of Somes Sound. The village has a small commercial district with several restaurants, a maritime museum, a small marina, and several inns, including the popular Asticou Inn.
Asticou Inn – The historic Asticou Inn, like Jordan Pond House, is known for its popovers. The inn sits on a hill at the head of Northeast Harbor. Since we were unable to get a reservation at Jordan Pond, we decided to eat dinner at the Asticou Inn. The restaurant sits toward the back of the inn, overlooking the pool and harbor. We sat on the porch, and enjoyed an appetizer of huge popovers, followed by a very enjoyable dinner.
Thuya Garden and Asticou Azalea Garden – Near the Asticou Inn are two gardens worth visiting, operated by the Land and Garden Preserve. Thuya Garden is a preserve located at the top of a hill behind by wooden gate doors. The garden was conceived and built by Charles Savage, and partially financed by John D. Rockefeller, Jr. The garden contains a mixture of perennials and annuals.
The beautiful Japanese style Asticou Azalea Garden is colorful year round, with the highlight being the azaleas and rhododendrons that bloom in late spring. During summer, the water lilies on the pond bloom, and fall is ablaze with vibrant colors.The garden was also built by Charles Savage with the purpose of inspiring serenity and reflection, while creating an illusion of space – of lakes and mountains and distant horizons.
Southwest Harbor
On the western side of Mount Desert Island, also known as the quiet side of the island, sits Southwest Harbor. It is located on the west side of Somes Sound, across from Northeast Harbor. It has become an alternative to busy Bar Harbor as a place to stay for many visitors. The town is home to Maine’s top ship and yacht builders, and is a favorite of Stephen King, who used it in his film ‘Storm of the Century’. Southwest Harbor offers a variety of restaurants, lodging, shopping and tourist activities.
The Claremont – We stopped for lunch at the Claremont hotel, named one of the best luxury hotels in Maine by Travel and Leisure. The beautiful old hotel with a summer camp vibe sits on Somes Sound facing Greening Island. It’s one of the oldest hotels on the island, dating to the late 1800s, but was purchased and renovated in 2020. We ate on the deck at the Batson River Fish Camp, which serves casual fare and house brewed beer. It was the perfect spot to spend an hour after a morning of touring, and take in the view.
Bass Harbor Head Light Station – On the southern tip of Mount Desert Island sits the Bass Harbor Head Light Station. The station was constructed in 1858 and marks the entrance to Bass Harbor and Blue Hill Bay. Previously administered by the US Coast Guard, today it is managed by Acadia National Park. It appeared on the America the Beautiful quarter in 2012, and was listed in the National Register of Historic Places in 1988. The light station is the most visited site on the west side of Mount Desert Island, and parking is limited.
Charlotte Rhodes Butterfly Park – The Charlotte Rhoades Park & Butterfly Garden serves as a haven for Monarch butterflies to breed and sustain their fall migration. The garden features a variety of plants and flowers, and includes walking paths and a overlook of Southwest Harbor. The park also offers educational programs and exhibits. The garden is open from mid May to mid October, and donations are accepted through Venmo.
Echo Lake / Beach – Echo Lake is a gorgeous 237 acre fresh water lake located about a mile north of Southwest Harbor at the base of Beech Mountain. The lake is surrounded by cliffs and wooded hills full of hiking trails (Beech Mountain trail) offering breathtaking views. The Echo Lake Beach on the southern shore is popular with both locals and visitors because of its beautiful setting and warm and relatively shallow water. The beach has a lifeguard during summer, as well as bathrooms and changing rooms. Pets are not allowed on the beach during summer.
Carroll Homestead – We stopped at the Carroll Homestead, constructed in 1825 by early settlers of Mount Desert Island. Today, the home is a living museum where guides educate visitors on the lives of a 19th century rural homestead family. Three generations of the Carroll family lived in the home over 92 years. The family moved away from the home in 1917 but continued to use it as a retreat until 1982 when it was donated to Acadia National Park. The homestead is located off Highway 102 between Echo Lake and Southwest Harbor.