Nestled in the heart of Cambodia, Angkor Archaeological Park and the nearby city of Siem Reap offer an unforgettable journey of a lifetime. The region provides visitors with breathtaking beauty, an introduction to an ancient culture, and delicious Khmer cuisine. The Angkor Archaeological Park is home to the legendary Angkor Wat, the largest religious monument in the world. Visitors will be mesmerized by the remains of ancient temples, cities, and hydraulic wonders built by the Khmer Empire. Just a short drive away, the city of Siem Reap is the perfect base for exploring these wonders, offering a welcoming atmosphere, a vibrant local culture, bustling markets, and delicious cuisine. Several years ago, as part of a broader trip to Southeast Asia, I spent a few days in Siem Reap, exploring the majestic ruins of Angkor Archaeological Park.
Who were the Ancient Khmers?
The ancient Khmers created one of Southeast Asia’s most powerful and culturally rich empires, known as the Khmer Empire. Centered in what is now Cambodia, this empire flourished from the 9th to the 15th century, and extended to parts of present day Thailand, Laos and Vietnam. Their society was deeply influenced by Hinduism and later Buddhism, both of which shaped their art, architecture, and religious practices. The Khmers were master builders, famous for constructing sprawling cities, and intricately designed temples such as Angkor Wat.
The ancient Khmers were also skilled engineers and agriculturalists, developing sophisticated water management systems, including reservoirs and canals, that supported large urban populations and year-round rice cultivation. Their capital cities, particularly Angkor Thom, were not only spiritual centers but also bustling urban hubs with markets, schools, and palaces. Ultimately, the empire declined in the 15th century due to a combination of invasions, environmental changes, and shifting trade routes.
Exploring the Ancient Ruins
The Angkor Archaeological Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, spans over 150 square miles and encompasses the ancient capitals of the Khmer Empire. The park features hundreds of temples, including the iconic temples of Angkor Wat, Bayon, and Ta Prohm, attracting millions of visitors each year. During our visit, we explored three of the most iconic ruins all within proximity to each other and just north of Siem Reap.
Angkor Wat – The most famous of Cambodia’s ruins is Angkor Wat, the world’s largest religious monument and a UNESCO World Heritage site. The vast monument spread over 400 acres was built by King Suryavarman II between the years 1113 and 1150 AD, and dedicated to the Hindu god Vishnu. It served as the king’s state temple and capital of the Khmer Empire. Angkor Wat was designed to face west, a direction traditionally associated with death and Vishnu in Hinduism. Scholars speculate that this could indicate its dual purpose as both a religious site and a mausoleum for the king. The outer moat and galleries further reinforce its divine symbolism, making it a spiritual and artistic masterpiece.
The temple was constructed using sandstone blocks transported from nearby Mount Kulen. It showcases extraordinary Khmer architecture with its intricate bas-reliefs, grand towers, and precise symmetry. The five iconic towers are said to symbolize the peaks of India’s Mount Meru, the mythical center of the universe in Hindu cosmology. As we walked throughout the temple, we were amazed at the numerous intricate carvings, towering spires, and a breathtaking sunrise view that draws travelers from around the globe.
Toward the end of the 12th century, Angkor Wat gradually transformed to a Buddhist temple due to the growing influence of Theravāda Buddhism in the Khmer Empire. Over the centuries, Angkor Wat has withstood wars, invasions, and natural decay. As the Khmer Empire declined, Angkor Wat remained an active religious site, continuously maintained by Buddhist monks, unlike many of the other temples that were consumed by jungle. Angkor Wat was introduced to the western world during the 19th century by French explorer Henry Mouhot, who captivated audiences with his travel writings and sketches. Under French colonial rule, restoration of the temple began to reduce further decay.
The temple was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1992, securing its status as a cultural treasure and ensuring its preservation. Today, Angkor Wat is the most preserved of all the Angkor temples, and is Cambodia’s most visited tourist attraction, and a national symbol, appearing on the country’s flag and currency.
Angkor Thom – Subsequent rulers to Suryavarman II, particularly King Jayavarman VII, adopted Buddhism and constructed additional temples reinforcing the religious shift. Just north of Angkor Wat is massive Angkor Thom, meaning “Great City.” Built in the late 12th century, Angkor Thom was the last and most enduring capital of the Khmer Empire, and was eventually abandoned in the late 16th century. Once the political and religious center of the empire, it was home to grand palaces, temples, residences, and up to 150,000 people. The city is surrounded by a monumental 300-foot wide moat and five imposing gates, each adorned with intricate carvings of mythological scenes and massive statues of gods and demons. Most visitors enter through the South Gate, with its impressive row of guardian figures. At its heart lies the Bayon Temple, famous for its 216 smiling stone faces jutting from 54 towering spires.
Other significant sites include the Baphuon Temple, originally dedicated to the Hindu god Shiva, but later converted to a Buddhist temple. The Terrace of the Elephants is a platform over 1,000 feet in length adorned with intricate carvings of elephants and mythical creatures, used for public ceremonies. As you walk through its ancient avenues, Angkor Thom feels almost like a city frozen in time. While walking through the relics, I suddenly came across a Buddhist monk walking through an opening, dressed in the typical saffron colored robe, adding to the surreal experience. In and around the ruins, visitors will be greeted by hawkers trying to sell elephant rides. In ancient times, elephants were key to the construction of the temples and used by kings to get from one place to another. Today, their population is declining, and they can be overworked and mistreated. It is recommended to stay away from these irresponsible tourist attractions.
Ta Prohm – Anyone who saw the Hollywood film “Lara Croft: Tomb Raider” will instantly recognize Ta Prohm, surrounded by jungle with its ruins covered in green lichen, moss, creeping plants and wrapping humongous tree roots. Unlike many other Angkorian temples that have been extensively restored, Ta Prohm has been left largely in its natural state. Ta Prohm was built in the late 12th century by King Jayavarman VII as a Buddhist monastery and university and dedicated to the king’s mother. Almost 80,000 people were required to maintain or attend at the temple, including over 2,700 officials and 615 dancers. Five rectangular enclosing walls surround a central sanctuary. At the further outer wall, there are four large entrance towers, but today, access is only possible from the east and west towers. Ta Prohm is a stunning example of the balance between civilization and the wild and is one of the most photographed and visited temples in Cambodia.
Siem Reap – The Gateway to Angkor Archaeological Park
Most visitors are likely to spend time in Siem Reap, the gateway to Angkor Archaeological Park. This vibrant and charming city has plenty to offer. Over the past two decades, it has transformed from a quiet provincial town into a bustling hub for international travelers. It is where most of the hotels, restaurants and other services catering to tourists are located. We enjoyed the city’s colonial-era architecture, tree-lined boulevards, and riverside paths that give the city a laid-back feel. At the same time, the city offers amenities such as lively markets, diverse restaurants, art galleries, and cultural performances including the acclaimed Phare Cambodian Circus.
Old Market – The bustling Old Market (Psar Chaa) located in the heart of the city near the Siem Reap River is a great place for buying food, handcrafted souvenirs, spices, and traditional Khmer textiles. It also has food stalls, and numerous restaurants, bars and cafes are located nearby.
Pub Street – We took a tuk-tuk from our hotel to Pub Street, the center of Siem Reap’s nightlife activity. The tuk-tuk offered a fun way to get to there, while enjoying a breeze which provided a respite from the nighttime humidity. Pub Street is home to restaurants, vibrant bars, and some of the best street food in town. It is popular with backpackers, and at night, the street is closed to traffic and comes alive with neon signs, music, dancing and street performers. The adventurous may wish to try fried bugs, tarantulas or scorpions from the numerous street food carts.
Angkor National Museum – The Angkor National Museum provides insight into the history of the Khmer Empire. It is dedicated to the collection, preservation and presentation of Angkorian artifacts, and provides information and education about art and culture of Khmer civilization. The museum includes numerous galleries of various themes, such as Buddhism, the Khmer civilization, religion and beliefs, Khmer kings, costumes, and temples.
Phare Cambodian Circus – The Phare Cambodian Circus provides an incredible blend of acrobatics, storytelling, dance and traditional music to tell uniquely Cambodian historical folk and modern stories. Phare artists are students and graduates from Phare Ponleu Selpak’s vocational training center in Battambang. The circus offers the students and graduates a place to hone their skills and earn a decent wage.
War Museum Cambodia – The War Museum Cambodia provides insight to the Cambodian Civil War and the Cambodian Conflict (Khmer Rouge insurgency) that lasted between 1970 and 1998. The museum is set outdoors and houses military weaponry dating to World War II. It includes a vast array of vehicles, artillery, jet fighter aircraft, helicopters, landmines and more.
A Boat Ride on Tonlé Sap Lake
We spent a day taking a relaxing and enjoyable boat ride on Tonlé Sap Lake (which means vast body of water in Khmer), located just south of Siem Reap. Part of the Mekong River system, the vast lake is an ecological wonder of fresh water, swamps and flood plains, surrounded by rice fields. Tonlé Sap is Southeast Asia’s largest freshwater lake, and is a UNESCO listed biosphere controlled by ecological protection. It is one of the world’s top four inland fishing grounds, which is the reason for its numerous floating fishing villages. The flow of the lake changes direction twice per year, and the lake itself expands and shrinks by four times its size with the changing seasons.
We boarded our boat south of Siem Reap, and floated down the Siem Reap River, where we observed farmers and water buffalo grazing along the river. As we made our way to the lake, we were offered a fascinating glimpse into the daily activities of people living on floating villages, whose livelihoods are entirely sustained by the water. These villages are packed with colorful houses made of wood or corrugated metal, schools, and markets that drift along the ever-changing water levels. While boating through the expansive lake, we waved hello to friendly smiling locals on the porches of their homes, children playing in the water, and those traveling on fishing boats. We were surprised to see a huge wedding party overcrowding a single boat while listening to music.
Popular villages to visit include Kampong Phluk, Chong Kneas, and Mechrey, each offering a different perspective on the lake’s culture and daily life. During the wet season (June to October), the lake expands dramatically, creating vast waterways that allow for scenic boat rides through flooded forests and stilted houses. In the dry season (November to May), the receding waters reveal wooden walkways and farmland. A boat ride on Tonle Sap provides an opportunity to witness the resilience and resourcefulness of those who call the lake home.
Cambodian Cuisine
The cuisine of Cambodia is less known and understood than the cuisine of its neighbors, Thailand and Vietnam. It is characterized by fresh ingredients, and bold sweet, sour, salty and spicy flavors, as well as aromatic spices. Rice is a staple that accompanies almost every meal, along with an array of grilled meats, freshwater fish, and herbs. Amok trey is a popular dish consisting of a fragrant fish curry steamed in banana leaves, and infused with coconut milk, lemongrass, and kaffir lime. Another favorite dish is lok lak, a savory stir-fried beef dish typically served with a tangy lime and black pepper dipping sauce. Cambodian cuisine also uses fermented ingredients, such as prahok, a pungent fermented fish paste that adds depth to many traditional dishes. Visitors can buy street food such as nom banh chok (Khmer noodles), crispy spring rolls, and sweet sticky rice with mango.
When to Visit
The best time to visit Siem Reap and Angkor Wat is during the cool, dry season (November to February), when temperatures are more comfortable, ranging from 77-86°F. The weather during this period is pleasant for exploring the temples without the intense heat and humidity. This period also offers the clearest skies, ideal for capturing stunning sunrise and sunset photos over the majestic towers of Angkor Wat’. The downside is that this is considered the peak tourist season, with large crowds. The shoulder months of October and March provide a balance between good weather and manageable crowds. March to May is considered the hot season and the sun and heat can be intense. The rainy season (June to October) is hot and humid but has fewer tourists and lush green landscapes. During any season, it is best to start in the early morning (before sunrise) to beat the crowds and experience Angkor Wat in its most magical light.
Getting There
Siem Reap is easily accessible by air and land. The most convenient way to reach the city is by flying into Siem Reap International Airport (REP), which serves direct flights from major cities in Southeast Asia, including Bangkok, Ho Chi Minh City, Singapore, and Kuala Lumpur. For those traveling overland, buses and minivans operate from Phnom Penh (a 5-6 hour journey) and from neighboring Thailand, Vietnam, and Laos. The journey from Bangkok to Siem Reap by bus takes approximately 8-10 hours, including the border crossing at Poipet.
Getting Around Siem Reap and Angkor Wat
Getting around Siem Reap is both easy and affordable. A popular mode of transport is the tuk-tuk, a motorized rickshaw that provides a fun and convenient way to navigate the city and temples. Tuk-tuk drivers can be hired for a full day to explore the Angkor complex, with prices depending on the distance and itinerary. Bicycles are also a great option for those who prefer a slow-paced, immersive experience, especially for temples near the city. In addition, motorbike, taxis and car rentals with drivers are available, particularly for visiting distant sites such as the floating villages of Tonlé Sap Lake.
Travel Tips
Some travel tips for a smooth experience in Siem Reap and the Angkor Archaeological Park include:
- Get the Angkor Pass – Non-Cambodians must purchase the Angkor Pass which is available for one, three, or seven days, providing options for visitors depending on their length of stay.
- Use a Tour Company – Another way to explore the area is through local tour companies. Sites such as Viator, which offers many different types of tours and itineraries.
- Dress Modestly – Angkor Wat is a sacred site, so wearing visitors should wear clothing that covers shoulders and knees.
- Start Early – Arriving at sunrise not only offers incredible views but also helps avoid the midday heat.
- Stay Hydrated – Siem Reap can be hot, so bring plenty of water while exploring the temples.
Exploring Angkor can take several days, and hiring a local guide or tuk-tuk driver is the best way to navigate this vast historical site. Many travelers choose to visit at sunrise or sunset to avoid the crowds and witness the temples in their most magical light.