Fort Lauderdale, known as the Venice of America because of its large network of canals, is a year round place to enjoy beaches and sun, explore diverse and trendy neighborhoods, attend concerts, museums and art exhibits, and eat or drink at an array of great restaurants, cafes and pubs.
A year ago last winter, we spent a month in New Orleans to get away from the cold in Washington D.C. While we loved our stay there, the weather wasn’t quite as warm as I had hoped. This year we decided to spend the peak of winter in an AirBnB in Fort Lauderdale, where the temperature would be more to our liking with highs averaging 80 degrees.
Fort Lauderdale is probably best known for its warm weather, beautiful white and gold sand beaches, fancy yachts, and embarkation point for cruise ships. But it’s much more than that. This modern city has a variety of attractive neighborhoods, cultural facilities, a diversified economy and is the headquarters of several major companies including AutoNation, Citrix and Spirit Airlines.
The area that encompasses Fort Lauderdale was originally a swampy land inhabited by the Tequesta Indians, followed by the Seminole Indians. In the 1830’s, settlers along the New River began trading with the Seminoles before several wars broke out between the two groups. The fort was established in 1838 and used through 1842 once the wars ended.
In the late 19th century, the Florida East Coast Railroad was extended through the area, bringing more settlers, agriculture and development. Soon after, dredging was done to create the numerous canals, while new roads were constructed to access the beach. During World War II, Fort Lauderdale’s weather and location contributed toward it becoming a major military base that included a Naval Air Station. Many of the military men and women remained after the war, leading to a new economic boom. After the 1960 film Where the Boys Are, the city became a major draw for Spring Breakers. By the mid 1980s, the college crowds were overwhelming the residents, and the city began an effort to discourage students while catering to diverse, year round tourists. Today, glass high rise towers seem to be sprouting everywhere, catering to the many new residents and tourists that arrive regularly to take advantage of the weather and myriad of attractions and amenities this city has to offer.
Neighborhoods and Attractions
Las Olas Boulevard – Las Olas Boulevard stretches east-west between the central business district and the Atlantic Ocean (at Las Olas Beach). The tree lined, fashionable western section is characterized by attractive low rise commercial buildings with shops, boutiques, galleries, restaurants, sidewalk cafes and bars. The old Riverside Hotel, opened in 1936, offers dining with a view at the Boathouse restaurant, overlooking the New River. The eastern section of the boulevard is comprised of upscale single family homes and condominium towers, crossing a number of canals formed by Seven Isles, and Los Olas, Hendricks and Venice Isles.
Riverwalk – The Riverwalk Arts and Entertainment district is located on the south end of the central business district adjacent the New River, near the original settlement of Fort Lauderdale. It includes an attractive linear park and promenade that primarily follows the north side of the New River between Cooley’s Landing Park and South Andrews Avenue. The Riverwalk also has a smaller trail along a portion of the south bank of the river. The Riverwalk is a great place to people watch, exercise, relax or watch the many boats and yachts go up and down the river. The attractive landscaped walk connects ten individual parks, passes beneath a series of drawbridges, and is lined with a number of restaurants and cultural facilities. Live music, food and drinks can be had at a new venue called The Wharf. If you’re interested in history, the Fort Lauderdale History Museum and the Stranaham House and Museum are both located along the Riverwalk. If you’re interested in water activities, kayak rentals are available, or you can board a river cruise or water taxi. The water trolley is a free water taxi that traverses along Riverwalk with eight stops (7 days a week, 10am to 10pm).
Flagler Village – Flagler Village, centered along NE 3rd Avenue, north of the central business district, is an area in transformation. What was once an older warehouse district is now a trendy area complete with new residential buildings, arts facilities, restaurants, bars, breweries and coffee shops. Many of the buildings, covered in vibrant colored murals, add excitement and vitality. Within Flagler Village is FAT Village (Flagler.Arts.Technology) that caters specifically to the arts. The four block area (between NE 4th and NW 6th Streets and North Andrews to the rail track) has artist studios, galleries and other creative related businesses. I stopped at the popular Wells Coffee Company where signature handcrafted blends are made on site.
On the last Saturday of each month (except December) between 6pm and 10pm is a free outdoor festival known as ArtWalk. This fun event, located near NE 4th Avenue at North Flagler Drive, includes dozens of local artists, food trucks, street performances, DJs and live music. I tried some delicious appetizers from a food truck specializing in Singaporean food.
Wilton Manors – Known as the Island City because it is surrounded by rivers, Wilton Manors is a separate city to the north of Fort Lauderdale. It’s also known as the Gayborhood for the Fort Lauderdale area because of its LGBT community and many bars, restaurants and shops that cater to the LGBT community. Most of the commercial activity is located along Wilton Drive between NE 20th Street and NE 26th Street. The Manors Market (thrift market) operates on the third Sunday of the month (10am to 3pm) at City Hall. Special events are held on certain days, such as Pups and Pets, Latin music and food fest, and a Health and Wellness fair.
Lauderdale by the Sea – This fun, family oriented tourist oriented community is located north of Fort Lauderdale where North Ocean Drive intersects Commercial Boulevard. Commercial Boulevard is lined with dozens of shops, cafes and restaurants with outdoor dining, bars and galleries. Anglin’s Square, at the end of Commercial Boulevard, is a lively pedestrian plaza filled with pastel colored Adirondack chairs and a beach pavilion looking out toward the beach and ocean. A couple of beachfront restaurants flank each side, including Aruba Beach Café and Anglin’s Beach Café which leads to Anglin’s Fishing Pier. Rather than endless high rise towers that seem to dominate many areas of southeast Florida, this community is dominated by low rise development including many mid century motor court motels, giving it a nostalgic Old Florida feel. The city does a good job of providing entertainment at the beach, including music nights (one Friday each month, February thru May), dancing by the sea (two Sundays per month, January thru May), and yoga by the sea. A Sunday farmers market is located adjacent the beach at El Prado Park (9am to 2pm, December thru early May).
Water Taxi – The water taxi operates three routes that serve the rivers, including a Fort Lauderdale route, Hollywood route, and the water trolley that serves the Riverwalk. The water taxi has different rates by type of pass (all day, evening, multi-day, monthly).
Riverboat Cruise – Fort Lauderdale offers a number of riverboat cruise tours, which can be purchased through Viator. We took an evening dinner cruise on the historic two level Jungle Queen riverboat that included a sightseeing tour of the many mansions and yachts along the canals and New River, followed by an all-you-can eat BBQ dinner at a tropical park that included live entertainment during and after dinner. The cruise leaves at 6pm and arrives back at the Bahia Mar Yachting Center at 10pm. Jungle Queen also operates 90 minute sightseeing cruises.
The Everglades – A fun way to see how this part of Florida originally appeared is by taking a day trip to Everglade park. Visitors can tour on their own at the National Park, or take an arranged tour through a private company. A guided airboat ride allows visitors to get an up close look at the Everglades, and the local wildlife, including alligators, panthers, pythons, turtles and storks. Tours can be booked through Booking.com or Viator.
Museums
NSU Art Museum – This museum is housed in a contemporary building in the Arts and Entertainment District near the Riverwalk. The museum contains a permanent collection of 6,000 pieces within a two level space. The collection primarily includes contemporary pieces and rotating exhibits, including Latin American art. The museum also contains a gift shop and café. The museum entry fee is $12 for adults, but offers free entry on the first Thursday of each month.
Bonnet House Museum and Gardens – The beautiful Bonnet House estate is located near Fort Lauderdale Beach off Sunrise Boulevard. The home and gardens were built by Frederic Bartlett, a wealthy attorney, naturalist and artist from Chicago in 1920. His family used the home as a winter retreat. The home is unique in style and surrounds a large heavily vegetated and landscaped courtyard. The home contains much of Bartlett’s impressionist style art as well as his art collection from around the world. Five ecosystems can be found on the property. In addition to the main courtyard garden filled with tropical vegetation, the grounds include mangrove wetlands, a maritime forest, a desert garden, hibiscus garden, and orchids. A large bonnet lily pond includes a Polynesian style bridge. The adult price for a self guided tour of both the house and gardens is $25, while a tour of the gardens only is $10.
Fort Lauderdale History Museum – This museum complex is located at the original settlement of Fort Lauderdale. The main component is housed within an old former hotel (New River Hotel). Most of the historical artifacts are located on the second floor while the third floor includes artist studios. The cost is $10 for a self guided tour or $15 for a guided tour which includes access to additional adjacent historic buildings.
Stranahan House and Museum – Built in 1901, the Stranahan home is Fort Lauderdale’s oldest surviving home. The home was built by Frank Stranahan, an Ohio native known as Fort Lauderdale’s founding father. His wife, Ivy Cromartie Stranahan, was the area’s first school teacher. The home has served as a trading post, post office, community gathering place, and home to the Stranahans. The museum details the history of the building, its former owner, and the city’s development.
Museum of Discovery and Science – this interactive museum includes an IMAX theater and various permanent exhibits including Prehistoric Florida, the Florida Everglades, and Otters at Play. The museum also houses the Hangar, an aviation-themed Makerspace, an outdoor physics Science Park, and the Storm Center, where one can experience hurricane force winds.
The Beaches
Greater Fort Lauderdale has 24 miles of white and gold sand beach facing the beautiful teal colored Atlantic. It’s no wonder most people come here for the beaches. In Fort Lauderdale itself, most of the beaches are located along Fort Lauderdale Beach Boulevard. The long Beachfront promenade provides access to all of the beaches including Fort Lauderdale Beach, Las Olas Beach and Sebastian Street Beach. Opposite the promenade are dozens of hotels, restaurants, bars, cafes, and shops, popular both day and night. Public pay parking areas are generally located to the west of Fort Lauderdale Beach Boulevard. Water enthusiasts can try snorkeling, scuba, jet skis, parasailing and other fun activities available through Booking.com or Viator.
A more secluded and natural beach area can be found at Dr. Von D Mizell-Eula Johnson State Park. Just south of Port Everglades harbor, the park is the only remaining undeveloped coastal ecosystem in Broward County. The park has a $6 vehicle fee, with lower fees for motorcycles, bicyclists and pedestrians.
Hollywood Dog Beach – For dog owners, the Hollywood dog beach is located off Highway A1A in north Hollywood, about a mile south of Dania Beach in an undeveloped area surrounded by wooded areas. This is a great beach to bring your dog(s) and let them run free, playing with the many other dogs brought by their owners.
Restaurants and Shopping
Great restaurants and shopping can be found throughout the Fort Lauderdale area, including downtown, along Las Olas Boulevard, at the various beach communities, and other locations noted above. Some of the other places in particular that we checked out are noted below.
15th Street Fisheries – Located at the end of the 15th Street peninsula at the Lauderdale marina, this seafood focused restaurant is a fun place to watch boats, catch a water taxi or listen to live entertainment.
Sistrunk Marketplace and Brewery – This food hall is located in the Sistrunk neighborhood, near Flagler Village. The large contemporary food hall has twelve individual food vendors offering diverse food options such as Sushi and poke, Korean, tacos, Southern cuisine, sandwiches, coffee and bakery items. The hall also has the Dream State microbrewery with a variety of local beers and imported craft beers and ales, and distillery tours. In addition to food, the hall offers a collective retail boutique, and features music and art.
The Wilton Yard – This unique shopping and restaurant area located in Wilton Manors is tucked away in a residential area on NE 13th Avenue at NE 24th Court. The outdoor bohemian market covered with Eucalyptus trees has a coffee shop (the Alchemist Cafe), a Mexican restaurant (La Mexicana), and French restaurant / creperie (Voo la Voo Café), and an enclosed market selling antiques, art and a variety of crafts, jewelry and other items.
