To most people, the name Transylvania conjures images of vampires and mythical creatures, ancient fortresses, and brooding landscapes, thanks to Bram Stoker’s 1897 novel Dracula. Many people still believe that Transylvania is just a place of fiction. While this historic area of Romania does have its share of foreboding looking castles, it has much more to offer any traveler. This mysterious and mythical land is filled with beautiful medieval villages, stunning mountains, never ending forests, lush pastures, wildflower meadows, numerous historic sites, delicious and hearty food and friendly people.
Transylvania is located in central Romania, near the Carpathian Mountain range. Its name means ‘Land beyond the Forest’ and is one of Europe’s most mysterious and captivating places. It is also where many of my ancestors on my mother’s side lived before emigrating to the US in the early 1900s. They came from the town of Agnita that dates to the 13th century, and home to one of the oldest peasant fortifications in Transylvania. This personal connection had made me want to visit it for a long time. Prince Charles is even a fan of the region. He first visited in 1998, and has been regular visitor since, restoring numerous farmhouses and leading conservation efforts of rural villages.
A number of years ago, I toured Transylvania and other parts of Romania along with Bulgaria and Serbia using Gate1 Tour company. Traveling throughout Transylvania is like stepping back in time. Here you’ll see farmers using horses to pull their carts full of hay, Roma CopperSmiths selling wares along rural roads, shepherds tending their flocks and colorful but rustic medieval villages full of gothic and baroque architecture that haven’t yet been Disneyfied like many others in Europe.
Medieval Towns of Transylvania
The Transylvania region is filled with some of the best preserved and beautiful medieval towns in all of Europe, built by 12th century Transylvanian Saxons who moved to the area from Germany and Northwest Europe. These towns have a much more authentic feel than others scattered throughout Eastern and Central Europe.
Brașov – Brașov is the gateway to, and second largest city in Transylvania, located in its southern region at the foot of Mount Tampa, surrounded by the Carpathian Mountains. The city is one of the seven walled citadels established by Saxons, built to protect citizens from various groups of invaders, including Mongols, Turks and others. Today, Brașov is comprised of the large modern section, and the old medieval section located to the southwest.
The highlight of the medieval section is the Old Townhall Square (Piata Sfatului), which is lined with beautiful and colorful pastel painted baroque buildings. The centerpiece is Brașov Old Town Hall, built in 1420. It was built as the meeting place for the town council. Starting in the 17th century, the Trumpeter’s Tower was used to announce the top of the hour. Today the building houses the Brașov History Museum. Nearby is the Black Church, also known as Biserica Neagră. It is the largest gothic church in Romania dating from the 14th century. Its name is based on its exterior color due to environmental pollution after Brașov became an industrial city in the 19th century.
Old Town Brașov is home to one of the narrowest streets in Europe, named Rope Street (Strada Sforii). The 265 foot long passageway is only four feet wide. Construction began in the 15th century, and served as an access route for firefighters.
From the Old Townhall Square, Mount Tampa can be seen to the south. The view is especially prominent due to a Hollywood-esque Brașov sign planted near the top. A trail can be used to reach the mountain top, or one can take a cable car for less than $5 round trip. The top of the mountain affords spectacular views of Brașov and the surrounding countryside.
Nicolae Titulescu Park is located to the immediate north of the medieval section, between Boulevard Eroilor and Nicolae lorga Street. This beautiful park is filled with paths, flower gardens, fountains and statues, with handsome buildings, such as the Brașov Art Museum and City Hall seen along its perimeter.
Sighișoara – One of the prettiest towns in all of Transylvania is Sighișoara. Its origins date to the first century AD, when a settlement known as Sandava was inhabited by the Dacians during the Roman Empire. In the 12th century, a citadel was built by Transylvanian Saxons. Today, this beautiful small town is considered to be one of the most well preserved medieval towns in Europe, and has been designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. As you make your way along the cobblestone alleys and streets, you’ll see colorful gingerbread homes, ornate churches, fortified walls and towers.
The 14th century Clock Tower controlled the main gate to the citadel, and was used as the gathering place for the Town Council until 1556. A clock with moving wooden figurines was added to the tower in the 17th century. The Clock Tower Museum displays archeological collections, medical instruments, art, medieval furniture, weapons and tools, musical instruments, ethnographic artifacts, textiles and more. A torture room museum is located at the base of the tower displaying the instruments used to extort confessions from prisoners. From the top of the Clock Tower, visitors can get an impressive view of the Old Town.
Sighișoara is also the birthplace of Vlad Dracul, or Vlad the Impaler, the inspiration for Bram Stoker’s Dracula. The Vlad Dracul House is located at Citadel Square near the Clock Tower. Vlad Dracul was born here in 1431. A wrought-iron dragon hangs above the entrance. The ground floor of the house serves as a restaurant, while the first floor is home to the Museum of Weapons.
Sibiu – Sibiu was the largest and wealthiest of the seven walled citadels founded in the 12th century by the Transylvanian Saxons. This is evident when walking around the Old Town, which still retains its grandeur from its earliest days. I spent time walking along the Old Town’s cobblestone streets and passageways, observing the everyday life of the local residents. The Old Town contains two sections – Upper Town and Lower Town.
The wealthier Upper Town is where most of the historic landmarks can be found, as well as commercial businesses. Upper Town has three squares – Large Square, also known as Piata Mare, is a large open square where community events, as well as the Sibiu Christmas Market are held. Small Square, known as Piata Mica, is connected to Great Square via a passageway beneath the Old Town Council Tower. In its earlier days, the town’s master craftsmen lived in rows of houses on the square.
Lower Town is filled with cobblestone streets lined with ancient pastel colored homes surrounded by city walls. The original fortifications included 39 defensive towers, four gates and five artillery batteries. Steep roads and passages lead to Lower Town. One of the bridges above a passage is called the ‘Bridge of Lies’. It was built in 1859 as the first cast iron bridge in Romania. Various legends are related to the nickname. One involves merchants who were discussing business on the bridge and trying to swindle their clients.
Another is that the bridge will collapse as soon as anyone tells a lie while on it. In reality, the bridge was originally called Liegenbrücke, German for lying bridge (built without supporting pillars). This name sounds similar to Lügenbrücke, meaning “bridge of lies”.
Throughout Sibiu you’ll see buildings and houses that have eyebrow shaped dormer windows built on the roofs. These are known as the Eyes of Sibiu, and are a major tourist attraction. In fact, the city has been nicknamed The City of Eyes, and The City Where Houses Don’t Sleep. They were primarily built in the 19th century, although some date to the 15th century, and were built to act as a ventilation system for attics. Legends also say that they were built to frighten people, making them believe they were being watched.
Castles
Romania, and Transylvania in particular, has many enthralling castles to see and explore, some being the most beautiful in Europe. I’ve been to a few of these castles, described below. Tours to the castles can be arranged through sites such as Viator.
Peles Castle – Peles Castle is a beautiful German Neo-Renaissance palace near Sinaia, considered to be one of the most stunning homes in Europe. It contains 170 rooms holding a vast collection of statues, paintings, tapestries and furniture, and a collection of 4,000 pieces of arms and armour. The castle was built between 1873 and 1914 by King Carol I of Romania, who reigned Romania upon its independence from the Ottoman Empire. He was inspired by the surrounding mountain scenery and wished to build a hunting preserve and summer estate. The castle was designed by a German architect, and contains classic European styles, with a combination of Italian, German and Renaissance features. Under communism in the mid to late 20th century, the castle was used for numerous purposes, including a tourist attraction, recreation site for Romanian cultural personalities, a museum, and military installation. After the 1989 Romanian Revolution, the castle was re-opened to the public as a heritage site. The castle has hosted numerous international celebrities and officials, including Kaiser Franz Joseph I, Sarah Bernhardt, Richard Nixon, Gerald Ford, Yasser Arafat, and Muammar Gaddafi. It has also been featured in various films. Adjacent is the smaller, but still grand Pelisor Castle, built by King Carol between 1899 and 1902 as a residence for the Royal Heirs to the throne of Romania, Prince Edward and Princess Marie. The castle is open Tuesdays through Sunday, generally between 9am and 5pm.
Bran Castle – The most famous castle in Romania is the mysterious Bran Castle near Brașov because of its association with the Dracula story. It was built in 1377 by Saxons, and was used for defense against the growing Ottoman Empire. More recently, it has become a favorite stop for horror story enthusiasts and Dracula fans. Bram Stoker’s vampire novel was inspired by the real life of Vlad Dracul, a Prince and ruler of the Wallachia region during the mid 15th century. He was also known as Vlad Tepes the Impaler because he skewered up to 80,000 of his enemies, Ottoman invaders, on long spikes. To this day, he is considered a hero in Transylvania.
In reality, any attachment of Bran Castle to the real Dracula is minimal. Historians have determined that Vlad Dracul never stepped foot in the castle. Nevertheless, the castle’s appearance with its stone walls, commanding towers and red tile turrets, and occupation on a 200’ forested cliff resembles the imagery represented in the famous novel and movies. It is one of the best castles in Romania, offering superb views of the surrounding Carpathian Mountains. Be prepared for large tourist crowds – over 800,000 people visit it each year. Upon entering, you’ll traverse through narrow corridors and stairwells, many with low ceilings, to visit the numerous rooms, terraces and courtyards. The castle includes an interesting museum with artifacts from various centuries. You can also pay extra to visit a torture chamber and dungeon. The gift shop sells a lot of kitschy souvenirs and trinkets, such as Dracula mugs and key chains. The castle is open year round, generally between 9am and 6pm most days. Tickets can be purchased ahead of time. There are also tours available from Brașov or Bucharest, and tickets can be purchased through Viator.
Corvin Castle – In the western region of Transylvania sits the impressive 15th century Corvin Castle, also known as Hunyadi Castle. It is one of the largest castles in Europe, and many call it “one of the seven wonders of Romania”. It was built as a defense fortress and prison under the order of John Hunyadi, a high ranking Hungarian official and military figure. Construction began in 1446 in a Renaissance Gothic style over the site of an older fortification. Construction was completed during four phases, with the latest phase in the 19th century. The large imposing structure includes thick double walls, tall rectangular and circular towers, bastions, an inner courtyard, multi-colored roofs, and balconies adorned with stone carvings.
Inside, the castle comprises three large areas, including the Knight’s Hall (used for feasts), the Diet Hall (used for formal receptions) and the circular stairway. An interior bear pit was used for throwing prisoners to be mauled by the wild animals. Vlad Dracul was apparently held here as a prisoner by John Hunyadi. Later, Vlad entered a political alliance with Hunyadi. The castle is generally open between 9am and 8pm.
Transfăgărășan Road
One of the most amazing sites is the Transfăgărășan Road which winds its way through the Făgărăș Mountains, a part of the Carpathian range. The road was originally constructed as a military route in the 1970s under the order of the former Romanian dictator Nicolae Ceauşescu. The road comprises numerous hair-pin turns before reaching Lake Bâlea. A half mile long tunnel leads to the other side, continuing down to forests in the Wallachia region. The road is open only a few months a year, usually from late June until early October, due to high levels of snow during winter.
Food
Transylvania has played a vital part of the gastronomic heritage of Romania, having been ruled by various kingdoms, including the Hungarian, Ottoman and Austro-Hungarian empires. The region was also home to tens of thousands of German Saxons who settled in the area in the mid 12th century. Local hearty dishes include potato bread, and numerous types of soups and stews made of meat or sausages, such as goulash. Potatoes, cabbage and beans are prominent in many dishes. Polenta, locally known as Palukes, is often served as a side dish. Mititei is a small sausage made of minced meat and spices, often sold at fairs and as street food. Sarmale is a type of stubbed cabbage with pork and rice and tomato juice. A similar dish, Varză à la Cluj, is a casserole layered with minced meat, rice, cabbage, and served with sour cream. Clătite brașovene is a savory rolled up pancake with beef and mushrooms, and fried in batter with eggs and breadcrumbs.
A delicious German inspired dessert is Prikosenkuchen, an apricot sponge cake. Another common dessert is Papanași, which consists of two donuts made from cottage cheese, semolina, and sugar and topped with sour cream and fruit preserve, such as blueberry.
Getting There
There are two international airports in Transylvania, including Sibiu, and Cluj-Napoca, or you can fly to the largest airport in the country’s capital, Bucharest, and then take a train or rental car to reach Transylvania. Car rentals can be arranged at the Bucharest airport.
Trains can also be used to travel throughout Romania. Most trains are operated by CFR. Tickets should be purchased online at least one day in advance, or at the train station the day of travel.