Years ago, I was captivated by reading about, and seeing images of stunning turquoise and blue tiled domes and minarets upon stately mosques and madrasas (religious schools) inside Registan Square in the ancient city of Samarkand, Uzbekistan. I made it a goal to some day visit this Central Asian country, known for being an epicenter during Islam’s golden age, and a key stop along the ancient Silk Road over a 1,500 year period. This captivating country has much to offer, including ancient and modern cities, amazing architecture, incredible sights and museums, beautiful natural scenery, delicious food and friendly people.
Now is the time to see Uzbekistan. The country is rapidly emerging as a global tourism hotspot, experiencing a significant increase in international tourist arrivals. In the first half of 2025, there was a nearly 50% increase in foreign visitors compared to the same period the previous year. This growth trend is expected to continue. The country is embracing the tourism demand by making significant improvements to its infrastructure, including hotels, roads, airports, and tourist experiences.
I recently took my first trip to this fascinating country as part of a small group tour arranged by Gate 1 Travel, a company that I’ve used for other all-inclusive tours. Gate 1 does an excellent job of preparing interesting, scenic and educational itineraries, providing comfortable transportation and lodging, delicious meals, and allowing tourists to interact with, learn and contribute to the local people, all at a reasonable price. Our 12-day trip included air and bus travel to key sights in four different cities – Tashkent, Khiva, Bukhara and Samarkand. Our tour manager and guide, Davron, was knowledgeable, friendly, outgoing and extremely patient to our group of 19. He made sure that all our travel needs and logistics were well taken care of and provided us a wealth of knowledge about the culture, history, and customs of Uzbekistan.
The History and Culture of Uzbekistan
Uzbekistan has long played a strong role in Central Asia’s history, with various waves of conquests shaping its identity, culture and architecture. Around 329 BCE, Alexander the Great gained control of the region during his campaign to expand the Macedonian Empire and introduced Hellenistic influences. Starting in the 2nd century BCE, Uzbekistan became a crossroad on the ancient Silk Road that connected China, the Middle East, and Europe. Turkic tribes arrived from the north and east, establishing powerful khanates and bringing with them the Turkic languages and nomadic culture. It was also during this period that caravans began passing through cities like Samarkand and Bukhara, bringing the trade of goods between east and west, such as silk, spices, animals, wine and gold.
In the early 13th century CE, Genghis Khan and his Mongol armies swept across Central Asia, destroying cities such as Bukhara and Samarkand, and integrating the region into the Mongol Empire. Under the rule of Timur (Tamerlane) in the 14th century, the Silk Road facilitated the exchange of religious, technological, philosophical and scientific thought. Samarkand and Bukhara blossomed into centers of culture, science, and architecture. Muhammad al-Khwarizmi, a mathematician from Khiva, laid the foundation for modern algebra. A 15th century ruler named Ulugh Beg is known for his precise astronomical skills well before the Renaissance and Galileo. By the 19th century, Russian imperial expansion brought the region under tsarist control, followed by Soviet rule in the 20th century, bringing industrialization and new social systems, including the suppression of religion.
Uzbekistan gained independence from the Soviet Union in 1991, emerging as a modern nation with a strong secular, but authoritative government. Recent leadership has opened up the country, promoting tourism, economic reforms, and regional cooperation. But the government also maintains tight control over political expression, the press, and religious activity. While religion, especially Islam, has grown in popularity since independence, the government closely monitors religious institutions to curb extremism and preserve secularism. Uzbekistan has imposed strict regulations on religious dress and practices in public life, including the outlawing of the burkha and niqab in certain settings. I must stress that while the government is considered to be authoritarian, at no time did we ever feel unsafe or threatened during our stay, even when walking around on our own.
Tashkent: The Modern Capital
Our trip began in Tashkent, Uzbekistan’s capital and largest city, where we spent two full days exploring a diversity of attractions. Tashkent is a fascinating, ancient city of over three million people that blends old and new. Expecting to see an arid, desert city, I was pleasantly surprised by the amount of greenery the city offers, due to it being located on a well-watered plain near the border with Kazakhstan. Wide attractive boulevards are lined with thick rows of trees, lushly vegetated parks and plazas. Soviet-era architecture, modern gleaming skyscrapers, and opulent government buildings and monuments fill the spaces in between. One such monument is the soviet style Earthquake Memorial, dedicated to the city and its people after the devastating 1966 earthquake. The Hotel Uzbekistan on Amir Temur Square is an excellent example of Soviet Modernism architecture, with its brutalist details and aluminum screen on the western façade to provide shade from the sun. Older pockets of the city contain ornate mosques, orthodox churches and traditional bazaars. Much of the old city was destroyed during the earthquake, and the city was heavily rebuilt with tall apartment towers and commercial buildings, giving it a more modern appearance than other historic cities in the country. We explored several museums, including the State History Museum, and the Museum of the Temurids which impressed us with its ornate domed lobby, frescoes, historic paintings and artifacts from the middle ages.
On our second day, we visited the Khazrati Imam Complex, Tashkent’s religious center that holds exquisite blue domed mosques and madrasas dating back to the 15th century. We were able to view one of the oldest Qurans in the world, dating to the 8th century. Another highlight was walking through the bustling and architecturally distinct Chorsu Bazaar which is contained within a large modern blue and green domed building. We passed hundreds of vendors offering spices, sweets, dried fruits and nuts, crafts, and freshly made street food. We were treated samples of lepeshka, the Uzbeki bread which is beautifully designed and freshly baked in clay ovens.
Khiva: A Living Museum
We woke up early to catch a flight to Urgench in western Uzbekistan, where we boarded a motor coach to take us to the ancient city of Khiva, once a trading post on the Silk Road, and a center of Khorezm culture. Khorezm was one of the oldest civilizations in Central Asia, dating back nearly 2,500 years, that covered the vast fertile plain along the Amu Darya River. Along the way we stopped to observe a cotton field, one of the major crops in Uzbekistan, and a melon stand where we sampled some of the most delicious and sweet cantaloupe, honeydew and watermelons I’ve ever eaten. The country’s hot summers and fertile soil makes melon cultivation ideal. We also explored the adobe style ruins of Toprak Kala or “Earth City,” located on the edge of the Kyzylkum Desert, and the capital of Khorezm in the 2nd century CE.
Once in Khiva, we spent two days wandering the old walled city, known as Ichan Kala, a UNESCO World Heritage site that contains over 50 historic landmarks and monuments. A unique feature of the slanted mud and brick made city walls are the many brick arch-shaped burial tombs that climb their lower base. Within Ichan Kala, one of the most beautiful and recognizable landmarks is the Kalta Minor Minaret – a wide but short unfinished minaret covered in a variety of elaborate horizontal patterns made of blue and turquoise tiles. The Kunya Ark citadel, built in the 12th century, is another fascinating site. It was the fortress of the khan (ruler) and includes a mosque, arsenal, prison, and ornate rooms like the throne room and harem. The simply designed Juma Mosque dates to the 10th century and is known for its 200 carved wooden support columns.
The evening comes alive both within and outside the walled city. Locals fill the squares – parents watch their children play, teenagers gather for gossip, and the elderly watch the scene from benches. We watched in awe an amazing sunset behind the ancient landscape of the city from the outdoor deck of a lounge. As night fell, we ate dinner and watched traditional musicians in a beautiful outdoor setting adjacent the Islam Khoja Mosque with its striking minaret.
Bukhara: The City of Mosques
We made our way to Bukhara, one of the most important ancient cities in Uzbekistan famed for its architecture and role as a scholarly city. The city has been continuously inhabited for over two millennia, dating back nearly 1000 years before Alexander the Great conquered Central Asia. Along the way, we stopped for a tea and restroom break at small outpost in the middle of the desert near the Amu Darya River, across the border from Turkmenistan, one of the most restrictive and authoritarian countries in the world.
Bukhara once had over 300 mosques and 100 madrassas, many of which still stand. Wandering the city’s old streets felt like entering a living museum of the Silk Road. We started at the Ark Fortress, a large earthen fortification dating from the 5th century, and once the seat of Bukhara’s emirs. The current Ark is built on the remains of earlier structures, and all of the existing buildings have been built in the last three centuries. The city’s most famous complex is Poi-Kalyan, one of Central Asia’s architectural masterpieces. It includes the Kalon Mosque which can hold up to 10,000 people, and its towering 12th-century minaret. Next door is the Mir-I-Arab (Prince of Arabs) madrasa. Its two-story facade is almost completely covered in glazed mosaic tiles. Two turquoise tiled domes rise above each side of the entrance. We explored other mosques, madrasas, palaces, the old bazaar, and ancient mausoleums, like the Ismail Samani Mausoleum, a world-famous architectural masterpiece, and Chashma-Ayub Mausoleum that dates from the 12th century.
One of the highlights was a visit to the Ustoz Shogird Center, an art school dedicated to preserving traditional Uzbek crafts and paintings. The school is under the guidance of Davlat Toshev, a renowned artist whose Persian miniature paintings have been exhibited throughout the world. We watched young students demonstrate painting techniques and were given the opportunity to donate art materials to the school. At Davlat’s home, we watched a cooking demonstration of Uzbekistan’s traditional dish – plov, followed by dinner where we were serenaded by an Uzbeki opera singer.
We loved the energy of Bukhara, especially during the evening, when people, young and old, filled the streets, squares, and outdoor cafes. We were also lucky to be in the city during the Bukhara Biennial, which contributed to the city’s festive atmosphere. The contemporary art and cultural event, themed Recipes for Broken Hearts, showcased over 70 local and international artworks, exhibits and performances at many of Bukhara’s historic landmarks.
Samarkand: Jewel of the Silk Road
The last city on our tour was Samarkand, the most famous in Uzbekistan, celebrated for its stunning monuments and rich history. It’s magnificent madrasas and mosques with their decorative blue domes and minarets are the reason I wanted to visit Uzbekistan. Samarkand is considered the most romantic of the Silk Road cities, especially as it was one of the most prosperous, and is a melting pot of many different cultures and traditions.
Samarkand’s centerpiece and most popular attraction is the Registan, a vast square framed by three large, majestic madrassas dating from the 15th to the 17th centuries. Among them are Ulugbek Madrasa, Sherdor Madrasa and Tilya Kori Madrasa, all adorned with intricate and colorful mosaics, lofty arches and blue colored domes. Bright glazed tiles of patterns and Arabic writings cover the entire surface of the walls. During the Timurid period, people would gather to hear royal proclamations, heralded by blasts on enormous copper pipes, or witness public executions. The square and its buildings have been redesigned and rebuilt over the many years. The buildings eventually fell into disrepair, and were largely restored in the 1960’s, with ongoing maintenance continuing today. We visited Registan Square during both the morning and late evening, and it was equally stunning both times of the day.
We visited other religious sights including the massive Bibi-Khanym Mosque, built in the 15th century as the largest mosque in the world at the time. It was constructed under Tamerlane as a tribute to his wife. We then visited Guri Amir Mausoleum, the final resting place of Tamerlane. Its interior is covered with elegant turquoise arabesques and inscriptions in gold.
One of the most fascinating sights was the Ulugbek Observatory, once known as the most advanced in the Islamic world. It was built by Ulugh Beg, a ruler who was the grandson of Tamerlane. He built the observatory in the 15th century, charting the stars with remarkable precision, He compiled astronomical tables that remained among the most accurate in the world until the Renaissance.
At the Afrasiyab Museum, located where an ancient city was destroyed by the Mongols in the 13th century, we marveled at ancient artifacts and ruins, such as coins, pottery, swords and old palace frescoes dating from the 7th century. Afrasiyab, named after a mythical king, is one of the largest archaeological sites in the world. The city was occupied from approximately 500 BCE to 1220 CE.
The People of Uzbekistan
The diverse population of Uzbekistan is around 36 million people, most of whom are ethnic Uzbeks, with smaller communities of Russians, Tajiks, Kazakhs, Karakalpaks, Turkmens, Crimean Tatars, Koreans, and Ukrainians. The country has a large young population and physical and cultural characteristics of the people are diverse, given that the region was conquered and settled by various peoples and cultures over thousands of years. Likewise, while Islam, primarily Sunni, is the dominant religion, many different religions have flourished in the area over the years, including Zoroastrianism, Buddhism, Judaism, Eastern Orthodox Christianity and Islam. Today, the primary languages spoken include Uzbek and Russian.
Food and Drink
The food and drink of Uzbekistan is hearty, delicious, and filling. For each meal, we were served delicious and beautifully baked bread known as lepeshka, a variety of salads, soup (usually lentil or a broth with meat and vegetables), an entrée and dessert. The national dish is plov, a flavorful mix of rice, lamb or beef, onion, garlic, carrots, chickpeas and spices, and traditionally cooked in large pots. In 2016, the dish was added to UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Heritage list. Other popular dishes include shashlik (grilled skewers of meat), samsa (delicious small pies filled with meat or pumpkin), lagman (a soupy stew of noodles, meat and vegetables), and manty (steamed dumplings served with yoghurt). In Khiva, we enjoyed Shivit Oshi, a traditional dish of dark green colored noodles made of dill, and served with beef, potatoes and carrots. Meals are typically accompanied by green tea, although vodka remains a popular drink due to Russian influence, and local wines and beers are increasingly common.
Souvenirs of Uzbekistan
Uzbekistan is a treasure trove for unique souvenirs that reflect its diverse heritage. Some of the best locally made items to buy include handmade carpets, silk scarves, handwoven textiles such as ikat and suzani embroidery, with their colorful and bold patterns used for wall hangings, tablecloths and clothing. Traditional ceramics from Rishtan, known for their distinctive turquoise and cobalt designs, are perfect for decorative bowls, plates, or teapots. Visitors can also find finely carved wooden boxes, intricate jewelry, and brassware. Local hats are also popular – these include the colorfully embroidered tubeteika, a round Turkik cap, as well as the doppa, a square shaped cap. The chugurma is a tall fur hat worn by men and reflects the ancient history of Khorezm. Popular food items include spice blends, locally produced teas, dried fruits, nuts, and sweets such as halva, chocolate, and a crystal sugar known as navat.
Souvenirs can be found in the bazaars as well as tourist markets located adjacent most of the historic buildings. One pleasant surprise was the lack of aggressive vendors that are commonplace in many other countries I’ve visited.
Getting To and Around Uzbekistan
Uzbekistan is increasingly accessible to international travelers. Tashkent International Airport is the main gateway, with flights connecting from Europe, Asia, and the Middle East. Visitors can also enter overland from neighboring countries such as Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, and Tajikistan.
Within Uzbekistan, high-speed trains connect Tashkent with Samarkand and Bukhara in just a few hours. Khiva is also connected by train, though the journey is longer. Domestic flights, mostly served by Uzbekistan Airways, are available between Tashkent, Bukhara, Urgench (the closest airport to Khiva) and Samarkand. In cities, taxis are affordable and widely available. In Tashkent, we used Yandex Go by downloading the app on our smartphones. The Metro in Tashkent is fascinating, cheap and convenient. It was built by the Soviets following the 1966 earthquake, and the stations are each uniquely designed, including one with space related motifs (Cosmonought Station). Rides are about US$0.15 regardless of distance. Within the old quarters of Khiva, Bukhara, and Samarkand, walking is the best option.
Other Practical Tips
When to Visit – The best time to visit Uzbekistan is during spring or fall, when the temperature is comfortable and the weather is mild and sunny. During these seasons, temperatures typically range from the mid-60s to low 80s Fahrenheit (18–28°C). While summer can be extremely hot, especially in desert areas, it’s still possible to visit the cooler mountain regions, while winter offers quieter travel and fewer crowds.
Entry – The US State Department webpage keeps up-to-date travel advisory and entry requirements to Uzbekistan. Uzbekistan has relaxed its visa requirements in order to promote tourism. For US citizens, visas are not needed for those ages 16 and younger, as well as those ages 55 and over. Others are required to obtain a tourist visa which can be obtained through the Uzbekistan visa application page.
Money – The Uzbkekistan currency is the som. The current exchange rate is approximately 12,000 som to one US dollar. It is recommended to exchange some currency upon arrival at the airport. We tried numerous ATM machines in Tashkent before we found one inside lobby of the Hotel Uzbekistan that would dispense cash. Others had technical issues or were out of cash. Credit cards are accepted at most hotels and some restaurants and are becoming more widely accepted. However, it is a good idea to carry some cash for taxis, markets, and tips.
Tipping – Tipping in Uzbekistan is not traditionally expected, but it has become increasingly common in recent years, especially in tourist areas. In restaurants, a service charge may already be included in the bill—if not, leaving a tip of around 5–10% is appreciated for good service. Hotel porters typically receive small tips, such as 10,000–20,000 Uzbek som (about $1–2 USD). Taxi drivers generally don’t expect a tip, though rounding up the fare is a courteous gesture. Tour guides and drivers who spend a full day with travelers often receive larger tips (we tipped $5, or 60,000 som per day for bus drivers and $10, or 120,000 som per day for tour guides).
Clothing – While most locals dress modestly, tourists can generally dress in western style clothing without any problem. However, when entering mosques, modest dressing is required. Shoes must be removed and men should wear long pants or cover their knees. Women should cover their shoulders and knees.
Water – Stick to bottled water to avoid stomach issues. Larger hotels, especially international chains generally use filtered water in their restaurants, but they also provide bottled water in guest rooms. It is best to avoid fruits and vegetables that have not been peeled, or you should peel them yourself.